OF 1400, dust issues, any suggestions on what I am doing wrong ?

[Rick Herrick]

First use of my 1400.  I have 6 doors I need to route a recess in for the center panels.  DC isn't stellar at all.  One of Eric's videos, on YT/Poplar Shop, showed how you could remove the door on the shroud to allow a larger bit.  I tried a bit of tape to help close it up.  Initially I had it on bench cookies so it was up in the air, possibly contributing to my issue.  I then clamped directly to bench, and still not so good.  My CT26 is on high.  I put a pile of dust on the table and set router on it and it sucked it all up just fine.  So I feel my DC and hose are doing good. So not sure what else I need to do.

Another issue (skills issue).  I read that when doing this, if going around the outside of the piece, move the router counter-clockwise.  If on the inside, go clockwise.  When doing this inside track, going clockwise seems to want to chew up the material.  I get big pieces of wood instead of dust.  If I go CC, it seems better but I have to hold on to the router as it wants to move faster than I would like.

 

[ChuckS]

Snip. If on the inside, go clockwise.  When doing this inside track, going clockwise seems to want to chew up the material.  I get big pieces of wood instead of dust.  If I go CC, it seems better but I have to hold on to the router as it wants to move faster than I would like.

The bite was too aggressive, removing too much material each time. Make multiple passes (in reduced depth or width or both) to prevent chip-outs and reduce the amount of sawdust generated which would also improve dust extraction.

Doing the CC means it's a climb cut. It produces cleaner cuts at the expense of loss of some control. Unless it's for a short section, I try not to do it.

 

[DynaGlide]

Hey Rick since you're edge routing you're not trapping the dust/debris fast enough to let the vac grab it. It's like when you do a dado if you start a little bit in the dust is trapped and collected. If you start right at the beginning of the panel it shoots out onto you.

 

[semenza]

The DC will be better if you set up to be able to use the "cup" shroud on the bottom of the router. But you won't be able to get as close in the corners.

Seth

 

[Rick Herrick]

The bite was too aggressive, removing too much material each time. Make multiple passes (in reduced depth or width or both) to prevent chip-outs and reduce the amount of sawdust generated which would also improve dust extraction.

Thanks Chuck, I will try doing it in multiple passes, I should have caught that.

Hey Rick since you're edge routing you're not trapping the dust/debris fast enough to let the vac grab it. It's like when you do a dado if you start a little bit in the dust is trapped and collected. If you start right at the beginning of the panel it shoots out onto you.

Thanks Matt, I get that, especially after playing with the TS55 for awhile.  Good DC requires a more enclosed area.  Its just too much still.  My Dewalt made the same mess with no DC hose connected so its a bit baffling.

The DC will be better if you set up to be able to use the "cup" shroud on the bottom of the router. But you won't be able to get as close in the corners.

Seth

Hey Seth, I actually tried that particular shroud, its one of the reasons I had to elevate my work piece so there would be clearance.  But using that really didn't help much.  I am thinking I need to try the edge guide as the associated shroud for that one does look like it might be beneficial.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Edge guide will be completely in the way doing inside rabbets. I would try getting off the cookies and down on the table, then resign yourself to vacuuming up the area manually after the cut.

Depending on species of wood, the chip out from rabbeting bits can be anywhere from a little bit to OMG. Personally, I have not found taking incremental cuts to be that effective at reducing it. I do a climb cut, carefully controlled and just skimming the edge. Then cut all the way to the bearing going into the rotation.

And, since I know you have a router table, Rick  [big grin] I would suggest you try your rabbet on that, instead of hand held. I think as narrow as your stock is, the table will be more stable.

 

[Peter_C]

Night and day difference using one of these chip catchers. Festool 492732 Chip Catcher OF 1400. Maybe that is the cup referenced above.

 

[Rick Herrick]

And, since I know you have a router table, Rick  [big grin] I would suggest you try your rabbet on that, instead of hand held. I think as narrow as your stock is, the table will be more stable.

Hey Jeff, your right.  It hit me last night that the table would be better.  So far mostly what I do with a router is edge work so wondering why I bought the 1400.  Do I have to drill LR32 holes or dadoes, in order to get good DC from the 1400?  [big grin]

 

[jeffinsgf]

It's pretty spectacular while doing guide bushing template work. Like...miraculous.

 

[Rick Herrick]

I'll hope to try that this weekend.  I crudely made the template from the TSO plan for the 4 holes in the sys drawer bottoms.  Going to try to cut out a few and see how that goes.

 

[semenza]

Night and day difference using one of these chip catchers. Festool 492732 Chip Catcher OF 1400. Maybe that is the cup referenced above.

Yup, that's what I meant.

Makes a big difference if you make sure to keep the catcher rotated forward, as in towards the direction you are pushing the router. Because that is where the chips are flinging off the cutter on an edge cut or rabbet. You can experiment and see the difference by swinging the router handle smooth and easy fore and aft (to move the catcher back and forth) while routing an edge.

Seth

 

[Coen]

Yes the chipcatcher is awesome, but nearly always a problem in the corners.

You could also use extraction at the side, but it adds bulk and attaches the hose in a place where it will try to tilt the machine. And definitely in the way at inner corners.

Some bigger chips isn't that bad. As long as you catch the finest dust.

 

[xedos]

36mm hose will help a bit.

Not enough to warrant buying one though.

 

[Coen]

36mm hose will help a bit.

Not enough to warrant buying one though.

Seems he already has a kinda fat hose, seeing it goes over the dust extraction port.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Yep, the D36 is already in action here.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It's pretty spectacular while doing guide bushing template work. Like...miraculous.

It is. I do some Soss hinges once in a while, and it is spectacular for that. It's not just the keeping things clean factor, it keeps the chips from restricting the cut by building up inside the template.
Before the OF1400, I would have to stop, remove the router, and get rid of the chips/dust before proceeding. Now the only stop is for removing the limit screws and resetting the depth stop.

 

[tsmi243]

For your dust problem-

You'll have to do this flat on the bench, sans cookie.  Take a piece of scrap from your stile/rail material, lay it on the workbench inside the frame, as if you were using it for an outrigger to hold your router base up.  Put it about 2" away from whichever side you're routing on.  Put the router on top and start routing.  Your router bit will be in between two rails this way, which limits how many directions the dust can fly, getting more of it up the chute into the router.  You'll have to move it around as you progress.

An even better way, if you have sheet goods the right thickness, is to cut a rectangle out, and stick it down right in the middle.  Make it 2" smaller than the opening on all sides, and it'll do the same thing all the way around, without having to move sticks around. 

It'll be like cutting a dado- the dust is trapped in a channel and 99% will go up into the router. 

 

[Rick Herrick]

For your dust problem-

You'll have to do this flat on the bench, sans cookie.  Take a piece of scrap from your stile/rail material, lay it on the workbench inside the frame, as if you were using it for an outrigger to hold your router base up.  Put it about 2" away from whichever side you're routing on.  Put the router on top and start routing.  Your router bit will be in between two rails this way, which limits how many directions the dust can fly, getting more of it up the chute into the router.  You'll have to move it around as you progress.

An even better way, if you have sheet goods the right thickness, is to cut a rectangle out, and stick it down right in the middle.  Make it 2" smaller than the opening on all sides, and it'll do the same thing all the way around, without having to move sticks around. 

It'll be like cutting a dado- the dust is trapped in a channel and 99% will go up into the router.

Thank you.  I actually started out that way.  I clamped the frame to the bench and put a couple of matching thickness pieces on one short and one long side.  But I didn't do it for DC, I did it help me keep from tipping the router.  But once I found I was stable enough, I just stopped using them.  Guess I should have left them there per your point.  Thanks for that tip, I will that one away.