OF 2200 - How to properly use the turret stop?

[magnuswyze]

Hello,
I'm an OF 2200 newbie (or Festool router for that matter).  I have been using my Bosch 1617 for many years and last week I finally pulled the trigger on the OF 2200.
For its first task, I routed a through slot 2"x1 1/2" in size in the middle of 8/4 oak with Whiteside 1/2" diam upcut spiral bit.  I'm quite satisfied with the feel and the experience. 
One thing that I cannot figure out though was how to properly use the turret stop to mimic what I normally would do with my Bosch.  On the Bosch 1617 turret stop, it has 8 steps with 1/8" distance between the steps.  This allows me to quickly and safely route and take off 1/8" at a time.  So for example, to route to a total depth of 1", I only need to setup once and use the stops to route 1/8" at a time.  However, on this OF 2200, there are only 3 steps where the distance between them can be adjusted to my liking.  Even if I adjust the distance between them to 1/8", it seemed to me I could only do a total depth of 3/8" before I need to reset and setup the depth again 2 more times so I can get to 1" total depth.
Is my above understanding on how OF 2200 turret stop should be used?  If yes, is the reason for only having 3 steps because the OF2200 is so powerful that it's ok to take out oak 1/2" deep at a time?
Please kindly share your experience or trick on making multiple shallow cuts (or is making shallow cuts not needed for OF 2200?).
Thank you

Michael

 

[Crazyraceguy]

If you really are making 8 passes of 1/8" each to cut 1" deep, you are seriously missing out on what a router can do, especially one as powerful as OF2200. It would take a lot of time to go through that too.
The real limiting factor in this situation would be the bit itself and I would doubt that "by hand" you could overwhelm a 1/2 up spiral. The density of the oak has some part to play, which is what makes dust extraction important, but this should be easy to do in 2 passes.
How are you making this cut? some kind of edge guide or a template? The slot you describe is clearly wider than the bit itself.

 

[ear3]

[member=77614]magnuswyze[/member] Have you tried set-up blacks for depth setting?  Those get you very close to actual depth, and then you can use the indexed .1 mm adjustment wheel to get the rest of the way.  The specific steps one takes to get there are a matter of indifference if you know (which you do with setup blocks) that you are on point with final depth/pass.

The 2200 could certainly do that 1/2" cut in oak in a single pass, though I probably would do it in two steps.

In the absence of setup blocks what I tend to do is use the turret rod to lock in the approximate final depth, minus maybe 1mm, but then use the adjustment wheel to dial in the remaining depth exactly.

 

[Cheese]

The usual general rule is the depth of the pass should not exceed the diameter of the bit. So if you’re using a 1/2” diameter bit you should be able to cut at a depth of 1/2”.

Caveats to that is the material you’re routing, the style of bit your using and the finish you want to achieve.

I don’t think I’ve ever needed more than 3 passes even in Brazilian cherry and teak.

 

[magnuswyze]

Thank you all for the quick feedback.
My conclusion from reading all your replies is I was being too conservative, and that I shouldn't be too worried in taking out more material in each pass, especially with a big router like OF 2200. 

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] I routed my slot using a guide rail, which made the task real easy.  It was a much better and simpler process when compared to my Bosch.  The slot is in the middle of 4'x8' tabletop, so it's out of reach of an edge guide. 

[member=37411]ear3[/member] Great suggestion on the setup blocks.  I'll try that next time.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Thank you for the rule of thumb info.. I'll keep that in mind next time.

 

[PaulMarcel]

I remember a time when Festool USA would post videos of Sedge training people on the OF-2200 where they used a raised panel bit in a hand-held OF-2200 in one pass. It was ridiculous, but it worked well! Haven't seen one of those in a while. Maybe FUSA Legal chimed in to say "not everybody can do that tho so stop before someone loses a finger".

Now I want to send Sedge a request to show using a panel bit in the OF-2200. Maybe not on FUSA's channel, but his basement channel.

 

[Cheese]

I remember a time when Festool USA would post videos of Sedge training people on the OF-2200 where they used a raised panel bit in a hand-held OF-2200 in one pass. It was ridiculous, but it worked well! Haven't seen one of those in a while. Maybe FUSA Legal chimed in to say "not everybody can do that tho so stop before someone loses a finger".

Now I want to send Sedge a request to show using a panel bit in the OF-2200. Maybe not on FUSA's channel, but his basement channel.

Now that's timely  [smile] here's a recent thread.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...-with-a-of2200/msg662679/?topicseen#msg662679

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The usual general rule is the depth of the pass should not exceed the diameter of the bit. So if you’re using a 1/2” diameter bit you should be able to cut at a depth of 1/2”.

Caveats to that is the material you’re routing, the style of bit your using and the finish you want to achieve.

I don’t think I’ve ever needed more than 3 passes even in Brazilian cherry and teak.

I have heard that "rule" for years, but I'm not so sure about why? or who made it a rule?
You would think that it should have something to do with the strength of the bit? Something like that the diameter/length ratio determines the load against the shank? This all sounds right, but I have personally run a CNC machine with a 3/8" diameter compression bit at a speed that no human could ever move, cutting to full depth in 3/4" plywood.
I realize that ply is way less dense and far easier to cut than Oak, but it still kind of shoots down the diameter/length thing. This is double the diameter at an incredible feed rate. I'm certainly not advocating even trying to cut that fast by hand, but it raises some questions.
In my experience, most of the people I see/work with cut way to slow, even in something as simple as  flush-trimming laminate. With bearing guided bits, this results in the bearing having to spin (under load) for much longer and with pilot style bits, it makes the bit rub against the edge too long.
It's even worse for cutting inside an enclosed pocket, where the bit cut and recuts the same chips making a lot of heat. This is why I like Festool routers, the dust extraction is better than any other I have used. Getting those chips out of the pocket is important in prolonging bit life.

 

[Cheese]

I have heard that "rule" for years, but I'm not so sure about why? or who made it a rule?
You would think that it should have something to do with the strength of the bit? Something like that the diameter/length ratio determines the load against the shank? This all sounds right, but I have personally run a CNC machine with a 3/8" diameter compression bit at a speed that no human could ever move, cutting to full depth in 3/4" plywood.
I realize that ply is way less dense and far easier to cut than Oak, but it still kind of shoots down the diameter/length thing. This is double the diameter at an incredible feed rate. I'm certainly not advocating even trying to cut that fast by hand, but it raises some questions.
In my experience, most of the people I see/work with cut way to slow, even in something as simple as  flush-trimming laminate. With bearing guided bits, this results in the bearing having to spin (under load) for much longer and with pilot style bits, it makes the bit rub against the edge too long.
It's even worse for cutting inside an enclosed pocket, where the bit cut and recuts the same chips making a lot of heat. This is why I like Festool routers, the dust extraction is better than any other I have used. Getting those chips out of the pocket is important in prolonging bit life.

That rule of thumb was originated before the appearance of CNC routers, it was focused on helping folks with using hand held routers.

With the advent of CNC equipment that rule does not apply. It's exactly the same as using an end mill in a manual Bridgeport vs an end mill in a Haas machining center. Speeds & feeds are completely different.

With CNC equipment the forward feed rate is constant and there will be no side load on the cutter. The dust evacuation is also superior so the heat level on the tooling is substantially reduced.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Oh, I get that, but my point was about the bit being able to take far more than people think.
The original poster did comment that he was using a guide rail for the cut, so this wasn't "free hand" either, at least totally.
Metal machining is a completely different animal. It does have the advantage of actual coolant, but chip-load is even more important. Rubbing rather than cutting is harder on the bit than with wood too.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Now that's timely  [smile] here's a recent thread.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...-with-a-of2200/msg662679/?topicseen#msg662679

Oh, I had missed that one; thanks, Cheese! I did end up messaging Sedge asking for more content on running panel bits in the OF-2200 and he said he liked the idea. So, hey! hope this helps.  [tongue]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Hey [member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] it's good to see you posting. I haven't seen you around in a while. Your YouTube videos from several years ago are pretty much what got me going down the Festool rabbit hole. My first was a DF500 and I found your review about it and just kept going. The modification to the MFK700 was just the thing I needed and never knew existed.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Hey [member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] it's good to see you posting. I haven't seen you around in a while. Your YouTube videos from several years ago are pretty much what got me going down the Festool rabbit hole. My first was a DF500 and I found your review about it and just kept going. The modification to the MFK700 was just the thing I needed and never knew existed.

Thanks! Appreciate the (way back!) memory! haha!