OF1010 pocketing with CNC bits?

[Stevenski]

Is there any reason I couldn't/shouldn't use a CNC milling bit in my OF1010?
I can't think of one but I am faaaaaar from being knowledgable on the subject.

I have been milling out some pockets recently using a standard (no-name) straight cut bit and have been left far from impressed with the finish on the bottom of the pocket - especially when compared to pockets milled on my CNC. It occurred to me that I could use one of my 6mm CNC end milling bits in my OF1010 and get a far superior finish.

I can't see why not - they are both, after all, routers spinning at high speed. One is just computer controlled and the other is old codger controlled (you guess which is which)

Or am I missing something?

the kind of bits I am talking about:
HERE and HERE

 

[luvmytoolz]

They'll work perfectly fine!

Some cutters like very narrow shank ones are better suited to a CNC than a hand router simply because of deflection issues, but generally there's no difference using them in a router or CNC.

 

[Stevenski]

They'll work perfectly fine!

Some cutters like very narrow shank ones are better suited to a CNC than a hand router simply because of deflection issues, but generally there's no difference using them in a router or CNC.

Thanks! That's pretty much what I thought but always better to check first

 

[Steve1]

I think the straight edge bit was more your problem. Especially the cheap ones.

I like solid carbide spiral bits.

 

[Stevenski]

I think the straight edge bit was more your problem. Especially the cheap ones.

I like solid carbide spiral bits.

I totally agree. The more I think about it now, the more I wonder what I was thinking then!

 

[P_K]

the kind of bits I am talking about:
HERE and HERE

You'd want an upcut bit for mortices in solid wood. Up-down compression tools are meant for 2-sided material eg: melamine clad particleboard.

Fraiser

www.fraisertools.com

 

[Stevenski]

You'd want an upcut bit for mortices in solid wood. Up-down compression tools are meant for 2-sided material eg: melamine clad particleboard.

Fraiser

www.fraisertools.com

Thank you for the link! Looks like a good resource for quality bits. I hadn't heard of them before

 

[Neil Lickfold]

The single flutes are really good for hand held routers when you are a beginner or someone that has difficulty in keeping a constant or fairly even feedrate. The down cut cutters are good for giving a great finish on the plywoods that have that very thin top layer. It will reduce the top edge from chipping. When it dulls it may start to show a more ragged edge. like a lot of things, roughing and then finishing with a good cutter gets alot more life out of them. The single flute bits are used alot in the Aluminium joinery industry alot due to it's large clearance for the soft swarf to clear out. With the single flute cutter, if you knife the cutting edge before routing, will reduce the top chip out. The downcut bit does not need this. There are also dlc or diamond like coated carbide cutters that give a substantial life over plain carbide cutters. Some materials are actually very abrasive , like custom wood for example. If you slow the surface speed down of the cutter they will last a lot longer too nad not get as hot either. It is why I have a 6mm, 8mm and 10mm collets for 1400 router.

 

[Stevenski]

With the single flute cutter, if you knife the cutting edge before routing, will reduce the top chip out.

Thanks, Neil. All shared experience and input is very valuable to me!

I must admit I am intrigued but unclear by what you mean by the above. It sounds like something I would like to know more about. Can you explain it a bit more? What do you men by "knife the cutting edge before routing"?

Thanks!

 

[Neil Lickfold]

You get a sharp knife, and score or cut or knife the edge to be cut. As the top layer of fibres are cut already it is less likely to chip out the top surface. As the single flute cutter with it's helix angle will have some lifting action on the top edge. It's like using a hand saw cutting wood, if you mark out and use a sharp knife to cut the edge of the saw mark, it will leave a nice edge.

 

[Stevenski]

You get a sharp knife, and score or cut or knife the edge to be cut. As the top layer of fibres are cut already it is less likely to chip out the top surface. As the single flute cutter with it's helix angle will have some lifting action on the top edge. It's like using a hand saw cutting wood, if you mark out and use a sharp knife to cut the edge of the saw mark, it will leave a nice edge.

ok got it - thanks
Makes sense! Something like what Paul Sellers calls his "knife wall"

 

[Michael Kellough]

Usually the bottoms of mortises are hidden behind tenons so the quality of the cut there is irrelevant, as long as the mortise is deep enough that random fibers don’t interfere with the tenon seating properly.