OF1400 stuck collet

[scdiver]

Hi, new to the group, just started using Festools and have an issue I could use some advice on.

I bought the OF1400, MFT/3, LR32, etc. last week to use for shelf pins on cabinets.  I set up the router per videos I found here and on Youtube so centered the bit on the guideplate with the part included in the kit.  I used the 8mm collet for that, that worked fine. I then put the 1/4 collet in and mounted a 5mm, 1/4" bit, zeroed the depth, set the depth then used it to put the holes in one cabinet so I could check to see that I had done everything correctly. 

After finishing that, I started to take the bit (Whiteside not a Festool bit) out and couldn't  pull it out of the collet.  So I tried to take the entire collet out with the bit, no luck there either.  So the collet and bit seem to be jammed into the post on the motor.  Has anyone had this problem?

Took it down to the shop where I bought it, they said they had never seen this before and didn't want to touch it.  Recommended that I send it into Festool service in Illinois, I haven't looked that process up yet.

So any thoughts or help would be appreciated, picture below in case that helps.

 

[grbmds]

Didn't see any pictures. Also, Festool Service is in Lebanon, Indiana. As far as I know, that is the only Service Center for Festool in the US. I'd call Festool Service first and ask if they have any suggestions about how to get the bit out without damaging the collet and router. They are very helpful and probably have some experience with similar situations.

Don't know what to suggest about getting the bit out but, for the future . . . When you installed the bit, did you leave an 1/8" of the shaft exposed out of the collet? You may know this (and, if so, sorry, just a suggestion), but bits inserted all the way can get stuck; heat generated during use and all.

 

[scdiver]

Thanks for the reply, I just was on the Festool website and they have an online repair form to fill out and send the tool in.  Good to know that the service center is in Indiana not Illinois, guess my dealer hasn't sent many tools back.

As to the bit, I feel like I know how to seat router bits but didn't know if there is something different about the Festool collet.  I usually seat the bit all of the way in then pull it out at least 1/8" before tightening.  It's possible that it didn't come out far enough, would that cause the collet fingers to jam into the bore of the shaft?

Good idea on calling first, I will do that Monday before shipping it out.

 

[josephgewing]

I have had this happen too.  One *trick* that worked for me was placing a piece of wood over the bit to protect the bit and then giving it a sharp rap with a mallet or hammer driving the bit back toward/into the router.  It may take two or three raps.  It has worked for me and saved sending the router back to Festool (or other repair shops).

To make this work even better, the next time you place the bit into the collet, leave about 1/16 or 1/8 inch from full insertion into the collet.  Then the *rap* method works easily and well.

Hope this works for you.

Joe

 

[ear3]

Squirt some lubricant in there as well, like blaster pb,  before attempting to forcibly remove the bit.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

So the collet and bit seem to be jammed into the post on the motor. 

This (red text) is the part that is important. The concerns about how deep you seated the bit is a red herring and don't apply.

When you said you tried to completely remove the collet, are you saying that you removed the nut, but the collet itself remained? (i.e. the nut separated from the collet?)

If that is NOT what happened, then you simply need to keep unscrewing the nut farther. There are two distinct points of resistance felt when loosening a collet nut. The first point is when the nut is loosening against its own threads, and the second point is when the nut pulls the collet out of the taper. If you stopped turning when you felt the second point of resistance, then you just haven't unscrewed the nut far enough.

On the other hand, if your collet nut separated from the collet, then you will have to carefully tap on the side of the collet to get it to free up.

 

[scdiver]

Thanks for all of the tips here.

On the part about tapping the end of the bit, will that transfer to the motor bearings?  I thought about trying that but am worried about hurting the bearings.

On the part about the collet and the bit, the nut is completely off of the threads but not separated from the inner fingers.  I can keep spinning the nut but it doesn't come out any further.  It really seems to be stuck in the bore of the shaft.

I will try to tap and see what happens and report back. 

Don't know how to attach photos in this forum but I will try again so it is easier to see the problem.View attachment 1

 

[Rick Christopherson]

No, you don't want to tap on the bit. You tap on the collet. Move the nut as far off the collet as you can get it. Your router bit is not trapping the nut, so you should be able to completely remove the nut.

You don't whack it hard, just several small taps on the side. I frequently used to use the collet wrench straddling the collet to prevent marring.

 

[scdiver]

OK, so I was able to get the nut off of the collet, see the picture.  It appears that the collet is expanded into the bore of the drive shaft. I put a block of wood on the edge of the collet fingers and tapped on that.  It is not budging and I don't want to hit it any harder than I have already.

I am going to soak it in PB and see if that helps loosen anything up then try to tap it again.View attachment 1

 

[greg mann]

Is it possible the collet was not already inserted into the nut before you assembled the Colette and bit into the router? If you put the collet and bit into the router and the screw the nut on you will not be able to remove the collet afterwards. I would also like to see the picture without the wrench in place. It would be easier to understand what might have happened.

Okay, so I know you didn't put Colette in your router.

Edited to clarify I am not stupid.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I put a block of wood on the edge of the collet fingers and tapped on that. 

Don't use a block of wood. Use the collet wrench as I first suggested. The block of wood acts as a shock absorber, and you need the small, but sharp impact on the collet.

 

[Bohdan]

I put a block of wood on the edge of the collet fingers and tapped on that. 

Don't use a block of wood. Use the collet wrench as I first suggested. The block of wood acts as a shock absorber, and you need the small, but sharp impact on the collet.

Rather than hitting the collet wrench use one that is a snug fit around the collet and has maximum grip on the flange of the collet. Sometimes you can find one that is just thick enough to fit between the shaft and the collet flange and this enables you to use it as a lever and crowbar the collet out.

 

[scdiver]

So I was able to get the collet out of the router shaft after soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of hours.  Got a screwdriver behind a lip on the collet and tapped it with a hammer. It popped out and I think I am good.

Not real sure about what happened but my observation says that there was enough "junk" in the collet that it kept the fingers spread to the point where it stayed wedged in the bore of the drive shaft.

I tried the 3 collets that came with the router after getting the one that was stuck out, they all seem to work OK. 

So thanks for all of the help, I would have sent it off to the repair facility on Monday if not for this forum.

The 2 kitchens are now back on schedule, blood pressure back to normal.

Love using these tools so far, lots more to learn.

 

[Holmz]

You may want three collet nuts so the callers can stay in the nuts.

 

[ear3]

Glad you were able to successfully troubleshoot the problem.

So I was able to get the collet out of the router shaft after soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of hours.  Got a screwdriver behind a lip on the collet and tapped it with a hammer. It popped out and I think I am good.

Not real sure about what happened but my observation says that there was enough "junk" in the collet that it kept the fingers spread to the point where it stayed wedged in the bore of the drive shaft.

I tried the 3 collets that came with the router after getting the one that was stuck out, they all seem to work OK. 

So thanks for all of the help, I would have sent it off to the repair facility on Monday if not for this forum.

The 2 kitchens are now back on schedule, blood pressure back to normal.

Love using these tools so far, lots more to learn.

 

[greg mann]

You may want three collet nuts so the callers can stay in the nuts.

It's not clear to me that the OP has only one collet nut but you may be right. It is a pain to exchange collets in and out of the nuts so, yes, having a nut for each collet is the only way to go.

More importantly, if the OP had to exchange the collet, 8mm to 1/4 inch, I am sure he did not get the collet fully inserted in the nut. This would cause EXACTLY the problem he had. There is a steel ring inserted in a groove above the threaded area in the nut that the collet must be inserted deeply enough for the groove in the collet to match up with this ring. This is the feature that pulls the collet out when loosening the nut. The secondary resistance Rick referred to is when the ring catches on the lip of the collet. This may all be obvious to seasoned users but it is not at all obvious to newer users.

 

[Holmz]

Everyone with a router has a need to be a triorchid.
[wink]

 

[greg mann]

If I'm dedicating three to the router I want five.