One Long Rail or Will Two Work?

[Administrator_JSVN]

Julie, maybe I read your posts and your PM to me wrong and, if so, my apologies. It sounds like you had discounted the viability of using the connectors for your application.

I think you're getting practical, unbiased feedback from the forum members.

 

[JayStPeter]

I can't say I've ever had a problem of the rails slipping out of alignment once connected.  The connect/disconnect process, though spelled out in many steps is a pretty quick operation.  That said, I did buy a long rail to avoid doing it as often.  I also dedicated my second 55" rail to being the 2nd rail, so the connectors were always in it ready to go.  So, slip them together, put a straight edge on, tighten screws.  It seems to me that once I tighten one connector I'm good to go.  The other is more of a safety.  I guess some people have more issues than I have had with that.  There was a slight "speed bump" if I connected the rails the other way, but once I figured out the way they went together best and left the connectors in, never a problem.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

FWIW I used short rails for a few years and have had no issue with them at all -- perfectly straight cuts.  I bought a 3000 so that I could more efficiently switch between ripping and cross-cutting, but joining rails is no big deal at all.  There is also no big deal with a gap between two joined rails. 

Scot

 

[Corwin]

Perfect is an absolute what we are dealing with is tolerance. I don,t think using the 7" end to align 2 rails is a very accurate way to accomplish the task even if the end was perfectly square. The proper way to do this is with a strait edge so why bother spending a lot of time & money making the ends to a close tolerance when they are just going to get bashed up from standing them up etc. & should not be used as a reference when lining up rails. I have a 118" ,75" & a 55" rail & join them for strait ripping lumber & on site work. I think that one long rail will always be more accurate then 2 joined but there are situations where joined rails are the answer.

FWIW
Gerry

[thumbs up] Completely agree, couldn't have said it better!
Tim

Yep, I totally agree with this too. 

 

[Kev]

Perfect is an absolute what we are dealing with is tolerance. I don,t think using the 7" end to align 2 rails is a very accurate way to accomplish the task even if the end was perfectly square. The proper way to do this is with a strait edge so why bother spending a lot of time & money making the ends to a close tolerance when they are just going to get bashed up from standing them up etc. & should not be used as a reference when lining up rails. I have a 118" ,75" & a 55" rail & join them for strait ripping lumber & on site work. I think that one long rail will always be more accurate then 2 joined but there are situations where joined rails are the answer.

FWIW
Gerry

Yeh - great summary!  [wink]

[thumbs up] Completely agree, couldn't have said it better!
Tim

Yep, I totally agree with this too. 

 

[Integrity_Construction]

Hi Julie,

My 2 cents is get the Betterly Straightline, and don't look back. I have one, and the $99 is well worth it IMHO. Give Tom a call at Betterleys....they stand behind there products 100 %, and if you were not satisfied with the product, he would take care of you, but I would guess you'd love it.

David

 

[JoggleStick]

Hi Julie,

My 2 cents is get the Betterly Straightline, and don't look back. I have one, and the $99 is well worth it IMHO. Give Tom a call at Betterleys....they stand behind there products 100 %, and if you were not satisfied with the product, he would take care of you, but I would guess you'd love it.

David

Well I've gotta admit, if this works like the utube video, and I expect it would, this is the easiest, quickest and most repeatable method of joining rails I've seen yet.
Why doesn't Festool have one or similar in their kit? : tongue : poke
Actually, I love the amazing ingenuity that the Festool products inspire... This being a perfect example : kudos .... Making a great tool even better and betterer....

 

[markorjack]

So he showed me how to connect 2 of the 1400mm rails. That was January 2006 long before the 1900mm (75") rail was introduced. He also suggested that I buy a third 1400mm rail. That would serve as a straight edge to align the connected pair of rails. More important, with it I could make cross cuts without breaking down the connected pair of rails.

This seems ideal to me, if you can't afford or transport the 3000mm rail.
Or possibly 2 x 1400 and 1 x LR32 rail which could be used for cross cuts.

I don't have that issue so use a 3000 and a 1400.
This makes it quick and easy to switch between long cuts and cross cuts.

If you do join two rails together you would still want a smaller rail to use for cross cuts so why not save the $100 you would spend on an alignment jig and just put it towards a third rail?

Having never worked with rails joined together I can't comment on the accuracy.

 

[Sparktrician]

I found that my original 55" rails had a "good end" and a "bad end" in terms of accuracy of alignment when butted together.  So now when I join them, I have the  "good end" marked and use that joint exclusively, but check it with a straightedge before I make the cut.  So far I haven't found the justification for buying the 118" rail, then figuring out how and where to house it safely between cuts. 

 

[barnowl]

I used to connect two 55" rails until I bought a long (108") rail, more for a convenience reason than any other.

It seemed that when I was using the connected rails, I'd need to make a shorter cut, and had to disconnect them.

But perhaps I missed it, but I didn't see anyone point out that the best way to connect the rails is to span the saw over the connection,

snug the green track adjustment knobs so that they're tight, and connect the top connector.

Then, flip the rail, and connect the bottom connector.

Then, re adjust your green track knobs so that the saw glides smoothly on the track.

 

[tjbnwi]

I find that it is more how you relocate the joined rails than anything else that affects the alignment. If you slide the rails the friction strips are going to do what they do, grip the substrate. If you push near the joint, the ends will hold, if you push near the end the center will hold.

I've found that it I pick the rail(s) up by grasping about 12" on each side of the joint instead of sliding the rails the problem goes away.

I just trimmed a deck with 24' of connected rail. Longest cut with connected rails was 32'. Both turned out just fine.

I also use my rails as trammels for my routers, swinging the connected rails through an arc didn't affect the alignment. (I do cover the friction strips for this operation)

Purchase the longer rail well worth it.

Tom

 

[JuliMor]

Thanks guys.  Now I know enough to make an intelligent buying decision.  It's better than not knowing enough to put together an intelligent question.  As many of you may have realized, I'm a hopeless perfectionist.  Blame it on my dad.

Based on what I've learned it seems if you have the money to buy all the different rails, or if you can justify the cost through reduced labor hours, buy the rails, as long as transportation isn't an issue, if you need to transport them.

If funds are limited, create a small assortment (for me that would be 2-3 right now) that gives you the versatility you need.  Then buy the Betterley.  It's about the same cost as the 42" FS 1080 and can give you the accuracy and stability needed when working with joined rails.

I was considering the TS 55 REQ + MFT/3 package ($1,147.50). That would include rails 42" and 55".  From what I've learned here, it seems the 75" ($185) would round off the rail assortment nicely.  A couple of connectors (you know I'll look into improving them  :) and one Betterley connector ($99) and life would be [cool]

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I Think That Is A Good Assortment And You May Never Need Any Others.

Scot

 

[tjbnwi]

Julie,

I have read that (some) dealers will allow you to substitute the 75" rail for the 55" rail with you paying just the difference. That would give you the 75 and 42. Not sure if just 2 would work out for you, just something to consider.

It would not hurt to ask your dealer if they'll do this for you.

Tom

 

[Bob Marino]

 Julie,

  Late to post a reply, but find this post very informative.  I think your comments show that you are, indeed a perfectionist, and you need not blame your dad; thank him instead - though I understand your point.

Bottom line on the 1 vs 2 rails, from my perspective, and I have been with Festool since 2001 - when the rails were connected via a single connector, not two, is that I agree with the vast majority of the posters here - short rails and connectors if price, transport and storage are issues. If not, for convenience sake and time, get a longer rail and perhaps a shorter rail for cutting the more narrow/shorter pieces. I've never had an issue with accuracy, connecting the rails.
Yep, if you have connected 2 rails, you would need to align and check whenever you disconnect and reconnect; really a minor inconvenience, but does work. The Festool connectors work well, if not the most elegant of solutions.  And there are other options, like the Betterley, which  seem to insure that the rails align quickly and accurately, w/o using a straightedge for insurance.

Bob

 

[mouppe]

Thanks guys.  Now I know enough to make an intelligent buying decision.  It's better than not knowing enough to put together an intelligent question.  As many of you may have realized, I'm a hopeless perfectionist.  Blame it on my dad.

Based on what I've learned it seems if you have the money to buy all the different rails, or if you can justify the cost through reduced labor hours, buy the rails, as long as transportation isn't an issue, if you need to transport them.

If funds are limited, create a small assortment (for me that would be 2-3 right now) that gives you the versatility you need.  Then buy the Betterley.  It's about the same cost as the 42" FS 1080 and can give you the accuracy and stability needed when working with joined rails.

I was considering the TS 55 REQ + MFT/3 package ($1,147.50). That would include rails 42" and 55".  From what I've learned here, it seems the 75" ($185) would round off the rail assortment nicely.  A couple of connectors (you know I'll look into improving them  :) and one Betterley connector ($99) and life would be [cool]

I would upgrade the TS55 rail to a 75" rail and make that your everyday rail. When you really need the extra length, take the 42" rail off the MFT and connect that to the 75" rail giving you 117"- plenty for a 8' sheet. I would see how you get on with the rail connectors before getting the betterley- as I and other have said, they work fine for us.

Oops, I just saw Tom's post...+1.

 

[JayStPeter]

My MFT rail tends to stay on the MFT.  Don't know if I'd want to take it on/off to use for extended cuts elsewhere.

 

[Bob Marino]

My MFT rail tends to stay on the MFT.  Don't know if I'd want to take it on/off to use for extended cuts elsewhere.

Agree with that Jay.

Bob

 

[Festoolian]

Two 1400mm rails joined with a Betterley can be straighter than a single 2800mm rail.  [scared]

All rails haver tolerance; Festool is no different.  Straightness/bow for aluminum extrusions is typically 0.001 inch / inch.  It exists for all rails.  With a joined pair, the two rails can be aligned at the joint to produce two shallow bows  vs. one large deep bow for an equivalent length single rail.

It isn't necessary to have a Betterley to achieve the alignment.  Having one just makes it easy.

 

[Sparktrician]

And if there's any thought that you might use the LR 32 rig, you might just be better off to buy two 55" "holy rails" and the Betterley Straightline Connector so you don't have to reinvest when you buy the LR 32.