Painting concrete block walls

Packard

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I want to paint the concrete block walls in my basement.  It is a dry basement with no water intrusion for 30+ years.

Also, about half of the walls are above grade. 

I recall the walls in grade school many years ago that were likely painted with oil based paints.  They were semi-gloss and very smooth, though following the contours of the block itself.

If I want to get a similar effect with water based paint, what to use?

What primer?

What top coat?

Roller or brush?

Again, no need to waterproof the walls, just paint.

Thanks.
 
Even without a water issue, I would lean toward DryLok Extreme. It has that "grade school" surface you're talking about. It's very thick and covers a multitude of blocklayer sins, without eliminating the texture and symmetry of the block wall. If you want white, I don't think there is a better or brighter white. If you want a color, I would start with DryLock Extreme and then paint that with any latex color you want.

5 gallon buckets, a wide roller with 3/4" nap and away you go. I have it 2/3 of the way around my basement shop and the difference in lighting is amazing. The unpainted back corner is where all the junk is hidden. I'll get around to clearing it out and finishing the job some day.
 
Irrespective if the basement is dry *today*, under no circumstance you want to paint it with anything that would entrap the moisture inside the walls.

Whatever paint you choose, make sure it is permeable for the water vapours.

You can paint, say, the bottom 4" with some poly or even synthetic stuff for ease of floor cleaning. But the bulk of the wall must be allowed to "breathe". This is different to a "normal" wall that can breathe to the outside in most cases. A basement wall cannot.

ADD:
For this reason I would advise against latex paints - latex is effectively a rubber membrane. It tends to severely limit the ability of a wall to breathe.
 
As I was researching how to change up the color of the wall in my basement in our laundry area, everything I came across echoed what [member=61254]mino[/member] posted: don't do it.

If the exterior of the wall already has a waterproof membrane, that changes the metric, but that's not usually the case.
 
Packard said:
Several sites mention the need for the paint to breath, while other sites completely ignore that issue.

Reddit says any paint if the walls don’t leak.

Garage Journal says any paint over Drylock.

The Spruce agrees with the above.

Phoenix Block recommends acrylic, but their audience is desert dwellers.
https://www.google.com/search?q=pai...terior&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m
This would do for a whole book /many are out on this topic, is like two-three courses at a uni for proper understanding the physics, water "management" is like 1/2 of house building know-how after all/.

So I will try to be as concise as possible:
---

Several sites mention the need for the paint to breath, while other sites completely ignore that issue.
Ignore any site or a person that ignores this. Simple as that. There are situations where "closing" the wall from the inside *in a basement* is OK-ish. But that is the exception, not the rule. So anyone who ignores the topic is either clueless or has an agenda. By "ignoring" I do not mean a local fella who is aware of the ground moisture situation in your house location and *knows* it is a non-issue with your house design to close the walls. That is not ignoring.

Reddit says any paint if the walls don’t leak.
See above.

Garage Journal says any paint over Drylock.
See above.

Though there are two questions in one answered there:
a) will paint stick to Drylock (and similar) => yes, it will, plus, once you closed the wall, anything you put above makes no difference to the wall .. so stating that once Drylock is in, anything goes, is technically correct
b) will the closing of the wall damage the building, cause molds, etc. => it depends, see first point, what is importat is that from the *current* state of the wall you cannot guess if closing it will be OKish or not, the only way to know would be if you built the house, i.e. have intimate knowledge of the moisture "model" of it. But then you would not be asking .. *)

The Spruce agrees with the above.
per GJ comment

Phoenix Block recommends acrylic, but their audience is desert dwellers.
This is a very good point ref. the Phoenix climate.

*) if someone did *not* paint the basement walls it may be because of cost savings, or it could be precisely to let them breathe, or it could be simply that the builder had no clue and just stuck to "how it was done always" .. over here tons of houses built like that in the 60-80s were recently closed up by insulating, causing almost an epidemic of "renovated" but moldy and damp houses .. that were fine before the renovations.

---------
In a summary.

If you paint an externally sealed basement, or a basement where the soil is super-dry with a water-permeable paint, nothing bad will happen.

If you paint a wall that relies on being "open" to "exhale" any moisture that gets into it with something that closes it up, you can face major issues.

Hence the universal advice is to not play the poker game and just stick to the safe option. These days you can get piles of great water-permeable paints unlike 100 yrs ago when raw lime was it.

The only exception is if you plan a bathroom - in that case you do need to seal the walls to prevent the moisture it generates getting into the wall. But that is a pretty special case.
 
So the “milk paint” from General Finishes, which is actually a modern acrylic indoor/outdoor finish using mineral pigments is OK? Or not? And what primer?

I have gotten exceptionally nice results with brush or roller with this G/F paint.
 
Packard said:
So the “milk paint” from General Finishes, which is actually a modern acrylic indoor/outdoor finish using mineral pigments is OK? Or not? And what primer?

I have gotten exceptionally nice results with brush or roller with this G/F paint.
In general, you want to avoid the general latex and acrylic stuff. Anything marketed as suitable for metals is a no-no, most wood-compatible finishes are not a good idea either.

That said, there are modern permeable paints with coarse acrylic binders in, so is not that simple these days ..

Needs someone from the US, familair with the market.

As for General Finishes .. from a surface look, the company seems to call itself "wood finishing products" so it is unlikely one will find there a product specially geared for permeable mineral surfaces..

From a quick search, here seem to be some options listed /no endorsement, just examples that seem sensible/:https://www.mychemicalfreehouse.net/2021/01/breathable-paints-high-perm-rating-wall-coatings.html
 
Mapei Elastocolor.  Water vapor permeable acrylic.  Technically for above-grade exterior and interior walls on buildings, but I'm thinking your basement block interior counts.  It will not do well under hydrostatic pressure, but you say it doesn't leak.. no weeping/moistness or anything?

Also, GF Milkpaint has absolutely nothing to do with milk paint chemically.  It's just designed to mimic old-style milk paint look.
 
six-point socket II said:
I’d recommend you talk to Keim.https://keim-usa.com/

German brand. Tried, tested & true. Available in the US. High-End.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Thanks for that Oliver... [smile]...this stuff may just find a new home in the garage loft.  [big grin]

I love the mottled effect and it's available from Keim directly as well as Sherwin Williams. At $88 a gallon it's not that far off of Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore prices.

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The entire east-facing wall of my house (and basement) is above grade.  It is a walk-out basement with full-height windows.  And about 1/3 of the north facing wall is above grade.  And finally all of the south facing wall is above grade but facing the crawl space under my garage. 

The plan was to paint the walls of the east facing (above grade) wall which is the wall of the home gym.  I want to brighten that area up a bit and I thought that paint would be the easiest and cheapest way to do that. 

So, forgetting for a moment that I have called the entire thing a “basement”, and understanding that the wall in question is above grade  and is a walk-out, does that same permeable requirement remain?

The wall that faces the crawl space has wood paneling that looks like a 70s era (“Plygem”) product.
 
Personally, and from experience, I wouldn’t go with anything else. BUT given your in-depth explanations, you’re most likely fine with whatever you want to put on there. No guarantee though.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Packard said:
The entire east-facing wall of my house (and basement) is above grade.  It is a walk-out basement with full-height windows.  And about 1/3 of the north facing wall is above grade.  And finally all of the south facing wall is above grade but facing the crawl space under my garage. 

The plan was to paint the walls of the east facing (above grade) wall which is the wall of the home gym.  I want to brighten that area up a bit and I thought that paint would be the easiest and cheapest way to do that. 

So, forgetting for a moment that I have called the entire thing a “basement”, and understanding that the wall in question is above grade  and is a walk-out, does that same permeable requirement remain?

The wall that faces the crawl space has wood paneling that looks like a 70s era (“Plygem”) product.
All statements of "basement wall" I used earlier were in the context of "a wall where on the other side is earth/soil".

A wall that has the other side exposed to air - be it externally or a crawlspace - is not much different to any other external wall of the house. The silicate paints are better for concrete block, but the only real concern are the bottom few bricks and sections where earth is on the other side of the wall. Bottoms because of potential capillary action from the concrete slab if wall is not sealed from below.
 
Back when I was a Project Manager for a retailer who operated out of big box masonry buildings, we would specify that a block filler be used as a "primer" on the interior of the exterior walls for a smoother finish.  Commonly used product.  Do a search and you will find it to be relatively cheap and even available thru the orange or blue stores.

Peter
 
mino said:
Packard said:
The entire east-facing wall of my house (and basement) is above grade.  It is a walk-out basement with full-height windows.  And about 1/3 of the north facing wall is above grade.  And finally all of the south facing wall is above grade but facing the crawl space under my garage. 

The plan was to paint the walls of the east facing (above grade) wall which is the wall of the home gym.  I want to brighten that area up a bit and I thought that paint would be the easiest and cheapest way to do that. 

So, forgetting for a moment that I have called the entire thing a “basement”, and understanding that the wall in question is above grade  and is a walk-out, does that same permeable requirement remain?

The wall that faces the crawl space has wood paneling that looks like a 70s era (“Plygem”) product.
All statements of "basement wall" I used earlier were in the context of "a wall where on the other side is earth/soil".

A wall that has the other side exposed to air - be it externally or a crawlspace - is not much different to any other external wall of the house. The silicate paints are better for concrete block, but the only real concern are the bottom few bricks and sections where earth is on the other side of the wall. Bottoms because of potential capillary action from the concrete slab if wall is not sealed from below.

My house was the builder’s home while building the houses in the area.  It is undeniably overbuilt in areas.

The basement slab is probably 8” at the front of the house (eastern side), but at the rear of the house (western side) due to the slope of the property, the slab is about 30” thick and makes a rear porch.

So the wall I want to paint is about 30” above grade.  And from the sound of the remarks, I can use block filler and any paint I want. 

When I bought the house the home inspector said that the basement joists call for 2” x 8” on 14” centers.  The actual joists are 3” x 8” on 14” centers. 

And the slab itself is poured using “hardened concrete” a term for which I have not found a definition.  But it defies the most powerful Ramset loads for driving nails.  And I only get about 4 or 5 holes out of a carbide tipped drill. I suppose this is good, but it made erecting walls a challenge. 

And they used a precursor to sheetrock, which were 3’ x 10” panels of plaster and metal lath about 1-1/4” thick and defies WiFi signals.  Hanging pictures is a challenge too. 

I am going to make a test section of about 4’ by full height (7’- 6”).  In our area any basement of 8’ or more has the square footage listed as “living space” and property tax is calculated on square footage.  So typically basements are just over 7’ high.

Thanks for the information.

Packard
 
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