Painting with limited supplies

[Aegwyn11]

So now that I've finally completed priming the MDF pieces of my ClearVue cyclone with BIN primer, I'm ready to move on to paint. I don't have spray equipment, but could access some if I absolutely had to.

I've sanded the BIN primer smooth...I'd like to end up with a smooth, glossy finish. Given that I have limited equipment for painting this type of finish, what is the best way to do it? Or should I just procure some painting gear and use a spray finish? Help!

 

[tbellemare]

Would using a spray can or two work?

Tom

 

[chrisrosenb]

Spray cans would be my suggestion also.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Limited paint gear ....... spray can should work, no doubt about it ....... if you need the finish as smooth as your car. But if not......, what's wrong with an old fashioned 2 dollar paint roller? 

 

[Aegwyn11]

I'm sort of a perfectionist...kind of silly for a dust collector, but oh well. Lets just say right now that I suck at using spray can paint...I figured that out using the BIN primer. I tend to get overzealous and get drips. Also, let me state that I've done automotive paint before, so I'm familiar with that process. So, several questions...

Any recommendations on spray paint?

Do I need a 'regular' primer, or can I go right on top of the BIN sealer?

Also, how would I go about this? Rattlecan the parts, allow to dry, then sand smooth, working up to high grit to get the shine?

Since I'm fully expecting to not get by without sanding, should I just brush/roll the paint on as Alex suggested? I'm in no hurry so drying times don't really matter.

Any need for clearcoat on something like this?

 

[Michael Kellough]

By coincidence I'm heading in the same direction. I've built a cabinet for a friend to hold and old cast iron double basin sink (in perfect condition). I've made nicely radiused profiles to go with the cast iron curves and I want to finish up with a glossy white surface to go with the porcelain.

Like you I've got a nice coating of BIN shellac primer sanded smooth and I'm trying to decide which spray paint (in cans) to use. They don't want to use traditional oil based enamel because it yellows. I used to use Krylon but it's hard to find these days. I hear it's at Walmart but there isn't one around here. The only well known national brand that is readily available is Rust-Oleum. I was thinking of using Rust-Oleum  Gloss White Appliance Epoxy but the manufacturer says "Priming is not recommended before using Appliance Epoxy products." So, I'm leaning towards Rust-Oleum's spray Laquer, which I think would be more similar to Krylon. It's only available in a few colors but gloss white is one of them.

Any suggestion's about brand and type?

 

[bruce-ter]

If you are going to go the brush or roller route, look at 'tipping' the paint.  this method is used by many small boat builders and some larger yacht builders to get the glossy smooth sprayed look.  The method is simple once you start, you roll or brush your paint on and then while still wet you drag the tip of a foam brush across the paint to smooth the surface.  I hold the foam brush handle at the end with finger tips and just let the tip touch the paint, then I drag the brush nearly vertical. 
Bruce

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thanks for the tip Bruce. 

 

[ericbuggeln]

For brush or roller application, I would highly recommend using Flood Floetrol paint additive.  Professional painters have been using it forever.  Follow the directions on the bottle.  It retards the drying process and cuts down on streaks.  I did a bookcase with high end Benjamin Moore paint and Floetrol, sanding lightly in between coats and it came out very nice.  Cut out using a brush and roll very carefully up to the edge of the surface.  Don't put to much paint on the roller or this will be very hard.  For a glossy finish I would go with a gloss finish.  Use the Regal brand from Benjamin Moore or comparable Sherwin Williams, don't go to the Depot.  Your local paint supplier can probably give you good advice also.

 

[Aegwyn11]

Did first coats this weekend. Went to my local paint store and did what they suggested...using a 4" miniroller with a 1/4" nap velour. Went with Pratt & Lambert Red Seal Gloss enamel paint. They suggested to stay away from water based just to be safe as it is MDF. As such, the Floetrol wouldn't work, so they hooked me up with Penetrol (oil version of the Floetrol). So far results look OK...looks like this will take a while and a number of coats to get the end result I'm looking for, but it looks like will work fine. Once I get back from travelling later in the week I'll sand the first coats smooth and apply coat #2.

A side note, seems like I'm getting a bit of trash in the finish. At first I thought it was because I didn't de-fuzz the roller, but I did that and while better, still had a little trash in the finish. I guess maybe thats the nature of not spraying the finish, oh well. If I ever get done with this I'll post some pictures of the finished product.

 

[ericbuggeln]

I take a piece of blue painters tape and and roll it around two fingers with sticky side out and then dab the roller to get any loose lint off of it before using.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I've always had much better luck with a brush than with a roller in trying to lay down a nice finish.  The keys are proper thinning and learning the delicate balance between not enough paint on the brush and too much.

 

[danrush]

When finishing a new or rebuild of a boat ( my other pastime) I've had great luck with cheap throw away foam rollers.  I use high gloss on just about everything, and get very, very little trash in the finish.  You can usually pick up a pack of 3 roller pads with one plastic frame for about 3 bucks at the big box store.  I also like to use the small disposable roller trays just once, seems to help keep everything cleaner.  Brings the total tool cost per coat to about $1.50.  Maybe a bit steep for some, but no clean up costs either.

Dan

 

[AlexThePalex]

A side note, seems like I'm getting a bit of trash in the finish. At first I thought it was because I didn't de-fuzz the roller, but I did that and while better, still had a little trash in the finish. I guess maybe thats the nature of not spraying the finish, oh well.

That's not the nature of not spraying the finish, but the nature of the environment you work in. The dirt is probably dust from the air. You'll always gonna get some, especially indoors. Unless you're in a controlled environment like a spraying cabin there's very little you can do about it. Working in the open air outside makes it a bit less dirty, but even outside there will be some dirt in the air. 

 

[Aegwyn11]

That's not the nature of not spraying the finish, but the nature of the environment you work in. The dirt is probably dust from the air. You'll always gonna get some, especially indoors. Unless you're in a controlled environment like a spraying cabin there's very little you can do about it. Working in the open air outside makes it a bit less dirty, but even outside there will be some dirt in the air. 

I guess I should have been more specific...the majority of the trash I'm getting is coming from the roller. Its pretty obvious because the trash is comprised of little red strings (from the red roller). Plus the amount of trash went WAY down when I remembered to de-fuzz the roller after I realized that I needed to. There is a bit of 'dust' trash in the finish, but its pretty minimal.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Try a Purdy white dove 3/8 inch nap.

 

[peter halle]

I don't know if anybody else has tried them, but either Lowes or Home Depot carries a 3/8 roller cover that is made of microfiber.  I have never had to de fluff prior to painting.  It might be 50 cents more, but I have been pleased by its performance. 

Peter

 

[AlexThePalex]

[
I guess I should have been more specific...the majority of the trash I'm getting is coming from the roller. Its pretty obvious because the trash is comprised of little red strings (from the red roller). Plus the amount of trash went WAY down when I remembered to de-fuzz the roller after I realized that I needed to.

Wow, then you must have used a pretty lousy roller. My rollers don't do that at all. I don't have to de-fuzz them, they come clean and ready out of the package. I wouldn't even have thought about the roller as a source of trash. All I can say then, is get some good material. Don't go to the Homedepot but go to a professional supplier. The rollers I use are of excellent quality and only cost me 2,35 euro a piece so they won't make me poor either.

 

[Aegwyn11]

The roller came from my independent paint supplier as the recommendation (its a Wooster), so I figured the quality was good. Part of the problem might be that its a 4" miniroller, not full size, so choices are a bit limited. The ClearVue pieces are not very big at all, which is why we went with a miniroller. The one we used was the red one.

Wooster Minirollers