Peeling paint - Peelbond

[huntdupl]

Just bought our first home and about to repaint the exterior. The house is almost 100 years old - the paint on the clapboard is peeling in certain areas (down to bare wood), alligatoring on the windows, and chippy paint on the rafter tails.

My previous approach on other products was scrape/sand, apply a high-build primer and sand smooth. I've been looking at Peel Bond Primer which, on paper, has the ability to bind old layer and self-level low spots. Dries clear, but also tintable and applied 30 mils wet?! I think I see the purpose from a production/commercial side as way to reduce prep work. But this my house..

Any first hand experience?
I find it hard to believe its going to spot-level 8 layers of paint next to bare wood - can it be sanded though?
What about a high build primer over the PB primer - Any product recommendations?
Can it be sprayed with a Graco Magnum X5 (tip commendation)?

Similar products:
Sherwin William Peel RX - applied at 6 mil
Zinsser Peel Stop - 8 mil

Thanks in advance

 

[huntdupl]

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[member=13337]Scott Burt[/member] [member=24938]JCLP[/member]

 

[mlink]

I've used Peel Bond and RX and had good results. Wouldn’t recommend it on windows or doors,  I’d bite the bullet and strip them before adding another layer on a historic home.
Peel bond or RX on siding or soffits after a good scape and sanding can help minimize cost/time and glue edges down pretty good vs stripping.
I sprayed it once with a graco 395 but have had much better results brushing.
My Ras 115 will strip a sill  down almost as fast as opening a can of primer! Love that thing!

 

[Scott B.]

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[member=13337]Scott Burt[/member] [member=24938]JCLP[/member]

I haven't used Peel Bond myself, but I have colleagues who have with pretty good results. I think it is important to not that any loose, peeling or blatantly flaking product needs to be removed, the surface has to be basically sound.

Then, this acts as a bridge coat, to lock down what is on the substrate and then serve as a base for future coats.

For the record, I don't think I have ever intentionally applied anything at 30 mil. And I would think it would be kind of hard to do on a vertical surface. Something about that defies logic, as that much sheer weight over an old and tired bond could help to pull it off. Totally just speculation, but definitely would be on my mind if I was using it. I bet it can be effective at much less mil thickness than that.

One downside is I think you have to get it in 5 gal quantities, thats how I've always seen it, which makes doing a test area not so cost effective.

Just my $.02

 

[Michael Kellough]

Applied at 30 mil you need to buy it in large quantities.  [blink]

 

[huntdupl]

Thank you all for the response. I have since been enticed into purchasing a RAS...finding so many uses for it. Undoubtedly this will be a workhorse outside which I still haven’t gotten to. I assume the reason for not using on doors and windows is to preserve the profiles.

Some take aways in the preparations for wood exterior finishing:
- scrape as much loose paint as you can
- feather the edges and abrade all surfaces
- spot prime unless more than 40% is bare wood

If using a standard primer, oil based I presume best, I thought I had seen mention of pre treating the bare wood with linseed oil prior to priming (similar to window sashes before reglazing) - that this helps with leveling the primer. Any experience with this?

Thanks for the help, all great tips welcome.

 

[xedos]

One downside is I think you have to get it in 5 gal quantities, thats how I've always seen it, which makes doing a test area not so cost effective.

It's produced in quarts and gallon too. And I think a rattle can is also available.

The issue is probably that your distributor carries what he can sell. O

My ACE will get whatever size I want in 4-5 days and I just checked Amazon and they'll bring you a quart too.

 

[mlink]

I usually recommend stripping doors and windows on houses that old because multiple layers of paint will eventually interfere with their ability to function properly.
The top and bottom sash of double hung windows are designed to move  up and down easily and too many layers of paint, caulk etc over years can get in the way.
Too many layers on door will bury the details and can cause it to stick around the edges where it closes by the stop on the jam.
Check out the Silent Paint Remover and Bacho scapers..
Old house are allot of work but are awesome and worth it!
Enjoy that Ras 115 and check out a ro 90.

 

[gmuller]

I hate to tell you, but you need to strip the woodwork.  Anything else is just a temporary solution.  I second the vote on the Silent Paint Remover - i have used one for 15 years.  With practice, I can get an entire exterior window casing stripped to bare wood in under 3 hours.  The thicker the old paint, the more old oil/lead-based, the more alligatored, the better that the SPR works.  Just comes right off.  Just be sure to work in vented areas, don't breath the dust or fumes.  Results are awesome - nothing like old window frames looking like new!