Pigmented Osmo oil questions

[Crazyraceguy]

I am thinking about finally getting around to sealing up my MDF dog hole table. I know that if I do this with virtually any type of finish, it is going to get darker, likely significantly. I don't want that to happen, but I don't want white either.
I'm thinking that the gray Osmo might do, but may be too dark to, after the second coat. Apparently the first one doesn't do much, which makes sense, it's not paint.
So I guess my questions are.
How opaque will it really be? How dark?
Is it possible to mix colors? could I add some white to the gray?
Would I need to do that on both coats?

 

[six-point socket II]

I'd check that the Osmo oil locks (not sure if that is the correct english/professional term) the surface fairly quickly/ after the first coat. Otherwise the MDF will probably "eat" a lot of the oil.

My experience is with their UV protection oil only, and the tinted variants are very close to the natural color/ don't do much to alter the color, with Douglas fir for example it's really light, barely noticeable. Maybe a little duller.

So using one of the UV protection oils that only have white pigments in them might do the trick?

Osmo Germany offers free samples when requested, maybe Osmo USA does the same?

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Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[tsmi243]

Here's what I used.  Not real dark.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I find the Osmo a bit hit and miss depending on the timber. I was testing some of the 3043 clear satin last night and on the rock maple it barely changed the tone, but on the white oak it darkened it considerably, very much like Danish Oil, which is what I didn't want to happen.

I have tried the pigmented white a couple weeks back, and maybe it was because I've never used it before so didn't get the technique right, but I really didn't like the way it went on or the way it looked.

 

[woodferret]

The pigmented wood wax wipes off too easily on fine porous grain / MDF if you follow the slap/wipe method.  They have a microfiber pad that is specified to lay down a thin, but noticeable layer, much like a very fine adhesive applicator.  Much thicker than you'd get with the apply and wipe but still dries in the 8-10 hrs for the next coat and oddly self-levels.  You can use a natural bristle brush but I find that it can be tricky to not overapply vs the microfiber.

Their two-coats for 80% opaque samples seem to be based on this type of application.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Why use a tinted Osmo at all? Why not just use the natural? I use that all the time and the saturated rags at the end of a project are used to freshen up my MDF outfeed table. Just barely darker than untreated MDF.

 

[woodferret]

I forgot to answer the question about mixing.

Yes, any ratio Wood Wax Finish with Wood Wax Finish.  The only time ratio matters is if you're using a Wood Wax Finish to tint a PolyX.  I think it was like 10% woodwax to poly in that case, but the TDS has the exact number.

And given the translucency, I'd say you want to have a consistent mix for both coats... unless that's the look you're looking for.  The tint in wood wax doesn't seem to penetrate very much so very light sanding can take off the majority of previous layers if that's ever an issue.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Why use a tinted Osmo at all? Why not just use the natural? I use that all the time and the saturated rags at the end of a project are used to freshen up my MDF outfeed table. Just barely darker than untreated MDF.

I just expected that it would do about the same as spraying lacquer? That darkens MDF pretty well.
If it doesn't change it that much, it might be worth trying.

I have seen a few Youtube woodworkers using cotton white Rubio on white oak, to keep from darkening it, but I just don't like that look.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Why use a tinted Osmo at all? Why not just use the natural? I use that all the time and the saturated rags at the end of a project are used to freshen up my MDF outfeed table. Just barely darker than untreated MDF.

I just expected that it would do about the same as spraying lacquer? That darkens MDF pretty well.
If it doesn't change it that much, it might be worth trying.

I have seen a few Youtube woodworkers using cotton white Rubio on white oak, to keep from darkening it, but I just don't like that look.

Holy cow Batman! I just checked out the cotton white Rubio as I'm in the process of finishing some A/Oak boards I don't want to end up honey coloured. $328 for a 1.3L tin! Wow!

I can get 2L of a bleach product (LightenIt) for $100 so I think that's the route I'll go myself.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Why use a tinted Osmo at all? Why not just use the natural? I use that all the time and the saturated rags at the end of a project are used to freshen up my MDF outfeed table. Just barely darker than untreated MDF.

I just expected that it would do about the same as spraying lacquer? That darkens MDF pretty well.
If it doesn't change it that much, it might be worth trying.

This is MDF not finished at all for a couple years and then a couple coats of natural OSMO

 

[4nthony]

I have seen a few Youtube woodworkers using cotton white Rubio on white oak, to keep from darkening it, but I just don't like that look.

Agree with your thoughts on Cotton White Rubio. Looks too pillowy and soft, if that makes sense. I don't like the way it makes the grain so much lighter. Bourbon Moth did a few furniture builds with Cotton White. That's the only time I've seen it. I like his builds but the finish wasn't a look I would want.

As for Osmo Clear vs. Osmo Raw, my kitchen refacing project used Clear and it turned out a bit more amber than I wanted. For my credenza, I used Raw and it was perfect. I was very happy with the results.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Why use a tinted Osmo at all? Why not just use the natural? I use that all the time and the saturated rags at the end of a project are used to freshen up my MDF outfeed table. Just barely darker than untreated MDF.

I just expected that it would do about the same as spraying lacquer? That darkens MDF pretty well.
If it doesn't change it that much, it might be worth trying.

This is MDF not finished at all for a couple years and then a couple coats of natural OSMO

That's what I'm looking for. It doesn't seem to have darkened it. I can do without the shine, but I'm starting to worry about water. Someone sat a soaking wet rag on it this afternoon, when I wasn't standing right there. I hope I got to it quick enough. I'll find out in the morning.