Plexiglass router template

[ear3]

Working on a commission where I have to do a bunch of spline joints in 2" thick boards, so since I have the Shaper, thought I'd work up my own version of the Routing Aid OF-OH 2200, which these days goes for $365 [eek].

Materials were a 12x36 sheet of 1/2 cast acrylic, a bag of 1/4-20 dowel nuts, with a thickness of .472" so that they didn't protrude from the sides, and some 1/4-20 knobs, all from McMaster Carr.  Total materials cost was $90 before tax and shipping.

Did holes in two positions each for the 2200 and the 1400 router, and made the opening 30mm, enough for a 1" bit.  I was considering making the opening wider to accommodate a 1 1/4" bit, but I don't know when I might want to edge rout a groove that wide -- if I ever need to, I can knock off another jig base now that I have the design.

Made the design in Fusion 360.  I didn't have exact measurements for the OEM jig, other than knowing that the material was 1/2, but I saw enough pictures to eyeball reasonable proportions and positioning.  Ended up making mine 14x7, with 3 1/2" sides.  The only tricky part was getting the positioning right on the drill press to add the holes into the edge of the sides for the knobs.  I initially hit the mark on only 2 of 4, and so had to expand the hole on the other two with a 17/64 bit to make sure the knobs lined up with the dowel nuts.  I also should have ordered 1 1/4" long knobs, rather than the 1 1/2" ones I ended up using -- instead of cutting them off shorter, I simply lengthened the hole on the underside of the cross-dowel nut.  I figured this would make the fit a bit more snug in any case.

I didn't include the extra vacuum hole in the back -- I figured that if dust collection were an issue, this could always be added later assuming I can get a similar dust port part as on the OEM jig (they don't seem to sell this as a separate part).  In any case, tests with the 2200 thus far have shown superior dust collection, so I'm not sure I'll even need to make the modification.

The one additional feature I added was a notch on center at the front and back of the jig to line it up with the center of the board.  I didn't add any kind of scale with which to set the sides, but I figure I will almost always be edge routing on center, and on those rare occasions where I have to go off center, I'm sure it will be simple enough to set the jig manually.

Tests thus far have been a success -- real application will begin sometime next week once I finish dressing the boards designated for work with this setup.

I'll probably be adding a post to the Shaper Origin forum with all the specs and files, but feel free to send me a PM if you want the files directly, which I'd be happy to share. Here's a link to the Project Files on the Shaper Forum.  It includes the original .dxf file if you want to modify anything.

 

[rvieceli]

Nicely done Edward.

Ron

 

[Svar]

Well done with jig manufacturing.
However, I don't understand the purpose of the Routing Aid, if stock rods and 2 router edge guides on opposite sides provide exact same function at a fraction of the cost.

 

[ear3]

Fair point. There might be certain operations, like routing an edge vertically (say a groove on the underside of a door that you have to lay flat), where the router aid provides more support?  Dunno, haven't worked with two edge guides so I'm not sure how it compares in those situations.

Well done with jig manufacturing.
However, I don't understand the purpose of the Routing Aid, if stock rods and 2 router edge guides on opposite sides provide exact same function at a fraction of the cost.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Well done with jig manufacturing.
However, I don't understand the purpose of the Routing Aid, if stock rods and 2 router edge guides on opposite sides provide exact same function at a fraction of the cost.

For making sliding dovetail joints, I’d much rather have a big jig like this.

 

[Cheese]

Nice Edward...very nice. What size router bit did you use for the centering notch?

 

[ear3]

Thanks.[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I created the notch in the original design to be on center and it was milled in the original profile of the base. But of course, due to slight variations with router positioning, ive discovered that it is about 1/64th off center of my 2200. Going forward ill probably just compensate by drawing the center line off by 1/64th.

Theoretically, I suppose one might design one specifically for the 1400 or 1010 that incorporated the hold down features of the LR32 such that it would allow centering the collet on the hole, and therefore assuring dead on center alignment.

Quote author=Cheese link=topic=61784.msg598144#msg598144 date=1579535232]
Nice Edward...very nice. What size router bit did you use for the centering notch?
[/quote]

 

[luvmytoolz]

This is really useful thanks Edward!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Well done with jig manufacturing.
However, I don't understand the purpose of the Routing Aid, if stock rods and 2 router edge guides on opposite sides provide exact same function at a fraction of the cost.

The problem with the 2 edge guide method is that you have to add some kind of auxiliary fences if you need to go all of the way to the end of the parts, at least with the OF1010. The edge guides are not as sophisticated as the ones for the OF1400. They will not close the gap near the bit, this plus the center hole in the base makes things a bit unstable at the ends. The Festool design would be much more stable in this situation, though I'm not so sure that the acrylic is really required? It is very expensive and to what end. The whole thing could be done with Birch ply, 12mm or maybe even 9mm?

 

[luvmytoolz]

Call me cynical but I would suspect if it was done with ply there probably wouldn't be any significant retail price difference!

It is expensive, but if I didn't have the ability to make my own version in perspex, I'd still very likely buy it regardless just for the level of accuracy in the manufacturing of it, as I would find it extremely useful for my own needs.

I've made many similar ones over the years out of whatever junk material I had laying around, this one would be a keeper for many years though. Anyone doing a reasonable amount of doors as I used to would find it very handy indeed. The handle fitting drilling jigs I bought many years back cost me around $600 at the time from memory, so I don't think the cost of this jig is out of the realm of possibility for someone with more than a passing use.

 

[Frank-Jan]

I bought my OF/FH for routing the frontplate of multipointlocks with a T-cutter (stepped routingbit). At the time several manufacturers were selling similar products in the Netherlands, and the Festool was the most affordable option. There was one by hmb profittools which was in aluminum and with wooden guideblocks if I recall correctly, and one by a manufacturer that doesn't exist anymore (freema) in blue plastic.

I don't think the 2 edgeguides with a long set of rods would work as well in that application, because the edge of the door is beveled, and you want the groove in line with the doorslab, not perpendicular to the beveled dooredge. (Allthough you could also make the groove prior to planing the bevel)

At the time festool advertised it as a universal routerguide (also for other brand routers) but it wouldn't work with my bosch router, because the base couldn't be centered due to the dustport. I then used it for a while with an ebq 1010, which worked but was annoying, because the 3 mounting bolts were in the location the guide is set when centered on a standard 40 mm door, later I used it with my of 1400, and I could leave the guide setup, because the two beefier mountingbolts were more to the side.

The setup is fairly easy, I just adjust one side to the measurement from the center to the dooredge, then put a folded piece of paper in between the door and the other side of the jig, with some clamps and tighten the other side. (this gives enough play to slide over the door).

After all those years it still works as well as when it was new, allthough it has a few battlescars around the centerhole due to stupidity.

 

[waho6o9]

"because the edge of the door is beveled, and you want the groove in line with the doorslab, not perpendicular to the beveled dooredge. (Allthough you could also make the groove prior to planing the bevel)"

Excellent point thank you!

 

[Cheese]

I think plexiglass was selected for its material characteristics and because 12 mm plexiglass sheet stock is expensive, the finished jig becomes expensive.

As an alternative, 12 mm ply could possibly warp and 12 mm aluminum would be heavy and could leave black aluminum oxide markings.

 

[rvieceli]

I think plexiglass was selected for its material characteristics and because 12 mm plexiglass sheet stock is expensive, the finished jig becomes expensive.

As an alternative, 12 mm ply could possibly warp and 12 mm aluminum would be heavy and could leave black aluminum oxide markings.

Can’t we afford to anodize that aluminum.  [tongue]

Ron

 

[Cheese]

Can’t we afford to anodize that aluminum.  [tongue]

You certainly could Ron...but weight will still be an issue and unless it's hard-coat anodize, the anodization will still eventually go away. [sad]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

After being reminded of this in the last few days, I have searched out some barrel bolts and a few knobs. They showed up today, so I think I'm going to give this a go.

 

[festal]

Thanks for reminding me.  I was going to make it then forgot.  Time to make it again. 

 

[festal]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] which ones did you get?  from mcmaster links?

what size of 1/2" plexiglass sheet is needed? 

 

[Bob D.]

I just made pockets to house a 1/4" hex nut. Printing the first (base) piece now.
Edge guides next which will house the 1/4" nuts.

Made this one to fit my Makita DeWalt compact router with plunge base.

It's shorter in length than what ear3 made I think. Don't know any dimensions of
his design I just made something similar but sized to fit my printer bed.

If this works out I may use the CNC to make one from Plexiglass. But I don't think
I have a need so probably won't go beyond the 3d printed version for myself.

 

[festal]

I just made pockets to house a 1/4" hex nut. Printing the first (base) piece now.
Edge guides next which will house the 1/4" nuts.
Made this one to fit my Makita compact router with plunge base.

It's shorter in length than what ear3 made I think. Don't know any dimensions of
his design I just made something similar but sized to fit my printer bed.

If this works out I may use the CNC to make one from Plexiglass. But I don't think
I have a need so probably won't go beyond the 3d printed version for myself.

Oh Nice.  let us know how it works.