Plug connection

MJM

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Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Messages
1
is any one having any problems with the festool sander, the twist plug connection keeps burning, to me it looks like a design fault as it happened before and i had to pay to get it replaced.
 
MJM said:
is any one having any problems with the festool sander, the twist plug connection keeps burning, to me it looks like a design fault as it happened before and i had to pay to get it replaced.

I've never had a problem with any of my Plug-It cords.  I understand there is an inherent risk of damage to the cord and/or tool with the Plug-It design.  Generally, it's user error that causes the problem but not always.  Just make sure you always turn the cord fully and you shouldn't have any trouble.   
 
MJM said:
is any one having any problems with the festool sander, the twist plug connection keeps burning, to me it looks like a design fault as it happened before and i had to pay to get it replaced.

It was discussed on here before.  If you keep going through plug-it cords, it might be because you damaged the plug-it socket in the tool.  Make sure to push the plug-it connector fully in, then turn clockwise 90 degrees.  Otherwise you might get a temporary connection that will be burning the contacts.
 
That's what happened to me on my RO 150 FEQ.  The one pin is fried and two cords shot.  I've never been able to get it to "rotate" 90 degrees.  Maybe my fault but it seems others are having this problem too. 
 
MJM said:
is any one having any problems with the festool sander, the twist plug connection keeps burning, to me it looks like a design fault as it happened before and i had to pay to get it replaced.

Had a couple of machines go through my hands that had these problems. Both on the machine and the cord side. I agree it is a design fault, should have been made sturdier and hassle-free.

Brice Burrell said:
Generally, it's user error that causes the problem but not always.   

There is no user error. If a design leaves the option (or invites you) to do it wrong then the design is flawed. It's as simple as that.
 
Just a FYI ...there's a hardwire kit available for less than $30.00 for the RO 150 FEQ...ITEM #479 982 & 492 780
I just posted this on the other Thread about these problems.
 
Well it is always interesting to see how people react to Festool issues. I also have had to replace twice, both the cord and the connector, in the RO 150. This just happened to me last week while sanding the hull of a 55 foot fish boat. After the first time that it happened about a year ago I made damn sure that the cord is plugged in fully and turned. I must have at least ten of the Festool Plug-it tools and at $70 a pop with freight it could become a major nickle and dollar problem. I feel that the pins are to small and not tight to each other enough. I also have some Milwaukee tools that are also plug it style cords and I have never melted down one in twenty five years of using them. Below is a photo of my latest Festool melt down

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SteveBirmingham said:
Well it is always interesting to see how people react to Festool issues. I also have had to replace twice, both the cord and the connector, in the RO 150. This just happened to me last week while sanding the hull of a 55 foot fish boat. After the first time that it happened about a year ago I made damn sure that the cord is plugged in fully and turned. I must have at least ten of the Festool Plug-it tools and at $70 a pop with freight it could become a major nickle and dollar problem. I feel that the pins are to small and not tight to each other enough. I also have some Milwaukee tools that are also plug it style cords and I have never melted down one in twenty five years of using them. Below is a photo of my latest Festool melt down

Do you remove the cords from the Milwaukee tools?  I never remove mine.  Maybe we've never had a problem with the Milwaukee cords because you can count on one hand the number of times the cords have been removed form all of our tools on one hand.  That's not the case with the Festool tools.  I remove the cords regularly.  There's just far more chance for human error, you only have to get it wrong one time and you could do damage.  Then there's the issue of ware and tear on the cords from the removal that could play a role in the potential for damage.

I'd like to hear more about the hardwire kit suds mentioned.
 
There are filled and outline arrows on the cord and index marks on the tool. Insert cord, turn until filled arrow aligns with index mark. Cord is locked.

I have yet to have an issue with the cord.

Tom
 
Man never new not locking the plug would be an issue, never even noticed any bright warning labels or triangles around the plug to encourage yourself to do this which is kinda supprising for a CE certified item, maybe I'm just blind. Now know what I need to do.

thx
Lambeater
 
To answer Brice's question first, on the Milwaukee tools I do unplug them. I have the large sawzall and the tool would not really fit into its case with the cord plugged in. The other Milwaukee that I have is the 1/2" Magnum drill and again the case that I have for it won't allow the cord to be plugged into the tool. The drill is on it's second motor, the first motor got dropped into the bilge of a fish packer a couple of times on one job and only lasted for another six or seven years before it gave up the ghost.
For Tom's comment he may very well be lucky. I use the RO 150 a fair bit as the tool can go from rough sanding to final polishing. I tend to make my tools work and over the last four years with the Rotex I have replaced the mounting plate for the pad, about four pads, and the plug-it cord twice now. We do mainly fiberglass work on boats and fiberglass tends to be a bit hard on tools. I'll buy on average two grinders a year. The only tools that I find that do stand up are top of the line Fein, Milwaukee, SJS Makita, and so far Festool. For those people who use tools for a hobby their tools might well last them a lifetime with no issues. I know of ship yards where grinders and such last about six months. It all depends on how much work the tool gets and the more work than the weak spots show up. I would switch to the hardwired setup except I also use the Rotex in the shop off of the vac boom arm which has it's built in cord.
Steve
 
Yes that's right the Milwaukee Sawzall must be unplugged to get it in the case or you would really have to smash it in there. I do agree the Milwaukee plugs and the DeWalt are more sturdy, it's simply a fact. Maybe the better feel and solidness is because of the 3 point triangle design of the inner plug connection rather than the two point oval design Festool uses.

I unplug the DeWalt plugs as much as the Festool because I have 12 DeWalt routers that I use the same cords with on the boom arm just like I do with the Festool routers. I swap routers instead of changing bits. I use them everyday and the feel is much more solid, they are thicker as well and no wiggle at all. Still, I never I had an issue the Festool plugs myself.
 
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