Plumb bobs



Thanks for that translation guys. Obviously lost in translation down here for one who does not follow Baseball or American Football.  [smile]

I have used them in the past, frame of this house for example. Now I have found them again, I am sure they will get some future use.
 
There are 2 ways to hang a door with a plumb bob.  One use one like the Tajima that attaches to the timmer stud and measure back to the line to set shims.  I know of a local company that sets jambs like this before the doors are even ordered.  Once they shim the hinge side they shim back to a spreader block to set the strike side.  They then set and case the jamb.  I have never understood the reasoning behind this method but it works for them.

The second is to mark a center line on the head jamb and tack a nail to it.  Then cut a speader for the bottom that is the same distance as the jamb leg to leg dimension and mark a center line on it. Put the jamb in the opening with the speader between the bottom of the legs and shim the bottom tight and tack it. Hang the bob off the nail on the top and adjust and shim it until the point of the plumb bob hits the center line on the spreader.  Then tack the top of the jamb.  The jamb legs get cut to their correct lengths prior to install off a level bench mark.  A 2' or a 32" level is all that's needed to verify the the head is level.  The legs get adjusted with a long straight edge.  I use the second method to install double doors to get me close and check it with a Jammer level.  To keep from having to settle the bob whenever someone brushes past I usually use a dot laser for this.  For singles I prefer the Jammer level for speed.

The guy I learned this from had a few different length straight edges made of plexiglass, pre-cut spreaders of various lengths, and a home made stand off that he screwed to the framing rather than one of the Tajimas or similarly designed Japanese bob set ups.
 
Thanks for the sharing Justin. That guy taught you well. I have used both of these techniques also. But i dont use them for your average pre hung residential  doors. For those i like the jamber levels. for the millwork outfits i installed for we would get split jambs and we would shim and install the split jambs sometimes months Before we ever saw a door. The spreaders we used have approximately 12" notches on either side  the spreader block which is  the exact overall width  of the jambs + a 1/16 for glue.  so they hook on the walls to keep your shims square to the walls. Which keeps your door in the same plane as with the walls.  I always shim top and bottom then straight edge (or string line, if im doing paneling) the middle . Then shim to my spreader top and bottom  and straight edge the middle. Also im not using wedge shims. Im using plastic horseshoe shims or flat wood ones 3.5" x 2 " liquid nailed or now i use the pam poly hot glue.  The doors would show up sometimes months  later.
 
HausWerks:

Your first photo is one cool Plumb bob. I'm gonna start watching for one of those to show up somewhere!
 
Plumb Bob's are for sissies.  I've always favored the Plumb Barbara myself.

Plumb Barbara

 

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Nice, but for $208, [scared] she'd better be capable of doing more than just hanging/jiggling around... 

[big grin]

 
Wow, they are  hard to find. A buddy just retired from millwork and mentioned selling  His. Ill ask again.
 
HausWerks said:
Wow, they are  hard to find. A buddy just retired from millwork and mentioned selling  His. Ill ask again.

Let me know if he does. I don't know if it's in the budget but I'd sure like to have one!
 
wow said:
HausWerks said:
Wow, they are  hard to find. A buddy just retired from millwork and mentioned selling  His. Ill ask again.

Let me know if he does. I don't know if it's in the budget but I'd sure like to have one!
Which one?  Plumb Bob or Plumb Barbara? [eek]
 
I watch Treehouse Masters, and they use water levels because lasers will not work because of line of site obstructions.  This is a fun show the one show they had a $125,000 budget  [eek]
 
I've used a water level within the last year or so. I had my laser and receiver but it was easier to use the hose at the time because of the configuration. Part of it was that I failed to bring a rod and didn't find a substitute (scrap).

Tom
 
I used one recently but dont often.
The obstructed line of sight is the key and for this there is nothing like the tried and true water level.
 
When I started in the Trades everyone used bobs & water levels, I still use them today, nothing is more accurate. Lazers are nice but worthless outside, levels have there own set of problems. A sheet of plywood was the only thing that worked on a houseboat build. It was fun,but only did it once, thank goodness.
 
HausWerks said:
Mike aa, the otis elevator  plumb bob like in the picture.

Hauswerks, Sorry, after reading ccmviking's reply #24 I couldn't resist making a joke!

I do have to say that paneled wall you did is amazing.  Sometimes the old and simple ways of doing things turn out to be the best and most efficient.  After all, masons built centuries old structures like domed churches using plumb bobs and strings.  The testament to the success of the these techniques is the fact that the buildings are still intact and standing hundreds of years later.

I'm not in the trades, but I've had occasion to use a plumb bob I inherited from my uncle and also had a chance to use a water level.  They were fast, easy, and seemed to be the most accurate way to accomplish what I was doing at the time.

Mike A.
 
Brent Taylor said:
Lazers are nice but worthless outside

I don't understand why you'd say that. I'd dare say the vast majority of site work today is done using laser levels and that includes excavation for utilities.

Tom
 
Tom Bellemare said:
Brent Taylor said:
Lazers are nice but worthless outside

I don't understand why you'd say that. I'd dare say the vast majority of site work today is done using laser levels and that includes excavation for utilities.

Tom

I have a older PlS 5, no sound.
 
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