-woodsman-
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2010
- Messages
- 75
These are two post and beam arbors I'm building in Boston (yaay boston). The larger one is over the driveway and the smaller one is over the walkway. His house is on a main st. with a hospital 1 block away and its very noisy. The ideas is that once the vines have established themselves it will help deaden the sound of the road. I'll go through the driveway one first.
[attachthumb=13]
I dug theses holes by hand and encountered some obstacles.
[attachthumb=1][attachthumb=2]
I decided to put footings in and anchor the 8x6 bottom plates to them. I wanted to avoid burring any wood.
[attachthumb=14]
I set J bolts in the footings and they determined my 8x6 post placement. The threaded rod section of the J bolt comes through the bottom plate into the mortise for the post's stub tenon. A large washer is used to snug the plate down. The nut and washer are mortised further down so it doesn't interfere with the tenon and the whole thing is hidden under the post.
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Here you can see one of the bottom plates in the center. The 4 vertical tenons here are the 4 posts stub tenons.
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Between the posts and the head are 4x6 brackets at a 45 dirge angle.
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There is horizontal bracing between the 2 bents but I don't have any good pics. A bent is a framework composed of several structural members that defines the cross-section of a timber frame building (thanks wikipedia).
The 8x10 heads that complete the bents are around 25' long. I had to put a joint in it somewhere. I chose smack dab in the middle. Yup completely unsupported. Its over 5' in either direction before it rests on the brackets. I used a Japanese joint called Kanawa Tsugi.
[attachthumb=7]
Each half of the joint took 10 hrs to cut. Roughed it out with a Prazi and did the rest with a slick and chisels.
[attachthumb=9] [attachthumb=8]
I was definitely worried that it wouldn't sport the weight of its self let alone the purlins, vines and snow load in the winter. My Japanese friend continually assured me that it would. When I was ready to test fit the first pair I had to make very miner adjustments just to get them close to fitting. This wasn't easy, putting them together and taking them apart, because each half ways over 500lbs. But I got them together, pegged the joint and put it on blocks approximately where the posts would be.
[attachthumb=10]
Edson Sama was right, it worked.
[attachthumb=11]
My friend in this photo wasn't aware of me fears when he stood up on it. I'm only 35 but ill tell ya I almost had my first heart attack.
The purlins create a arch across the top. The first and last purlin is flush with the top of the header so the detail dies into the plane of the header. Each purlin is beveled leaving a 2x2 square on the end of it. From the center of the head moving out in either direction the length of the bevel of each purlin is reduced by the 2 3/4" as the height is reduced by 1". This reduction brings it from a 10x2 with 2" showing from the bevel to a 2x2 with no bevel. The math was also good for the cut list. I had 2x12s each yielded 1@10" and 1@2", 1@9" and 1@3" so on and so forth. The only waste was less than 6" off of each end.
[attachthumb=6]
This is only half of them. I was in the process of finishing and did not have acsess to the other half. Just picture it mirrored on the right hand side to complete the arch.
So that brings us to the finish. Pine tar and linseed oil. Here is a link http://www.solventfreepaint.com/pine-tar.htm . I used the light tar did two coats and the home owner wanted it darker. I personally liked it lighter but if the dark tar had been applied without two cotes of the light first it would have been black. so its a happy medium. And the timbers are all the more protected by that third cote.
This is really funny. The ambulance drivers who passed by many times a day and who sometimes stopped to chat (when there wasn't someone in the back) became so aware of me that some of them would turn off there siren as they drove by. The was grate because being in a below grade driveway amplified everything.
[attachthumb=13]
I dug theses holes by hand and encountered some obstacles.
[attachthumb=1][attachthumb=2]
I decided to put footings in and anchor the 8x6 bottom plates to them. I wanted to avoid burring any wood.
[attachthumb=14]
I set J bolts in the footings and they determined my 8x6 post placement. The threaded rod section of the J bolt comes through the bottom plate into the mortise for the post's stub tenon. A large washer is used to snug the plate down. The nut and washer are mortised further down so it doesn't interfere with the tenon and the whole thing is hidden under the post.
[attachthumb=3]
Here you can see one of the bottom plates in the center. The 4 vertical tenons here are the 4 posts stub tenons.
[attachthumb=15]
Between the posts and the head are 4x6 brackets at a 45 dirge angle.
[attachthumb=4]
There is horizontal bracing between the 2 bents but I don't have any good pics. A bent is a framework composed of several structural members that defines the cross-section of a timber frame building (thanks wikipedia).
The 8x10 heads that complete the bents are around 25' long. I had to put a joint in it somewhere. I chose smack dab in the middle. Yup completely unsupported. Its over 5' in either direction before it rests on the brackets. I used a Japanese joint called Kanawa Tsugi.
[attachthumb=7]
Each half of the joint took 10 hrs to cut. Roughed it out with a Prazi and did the rest with a slick and chisels.
[attachthumb=9] [attachthumb=8]
I was definitely worried that it wouldn't sport the weight of its self let alone the purlins, vines and snow load in the winter. My Japanese friend continually assured me that it would. When I was ready to test fit the first pair I had to make very miner adjustments just to get them close to fitting. This wasn't easy, putting them together and taking them apart, because each half ways over 500lbs. But I got them together, pegged the joint and put it on blocks approximately where the posts would be.
[attachthumb=10]
Edson Sama was right, it worked.
[attachthumb=11]
My friend in this photo wasn't aware of me fears when he stood up on it. I'm only 35 but ill tell ya I almost had my first heart attack.
The purlins create a arch across the top. The first and last purlin is flush with the top of the header so the detail dies into the plane of the header. Each purlin is beveled leaving a 2x2 square on the end of it. From the center of the head moving out in either direction the length of the bevel of each purlin is reduced by the 2 3/4" as the height is reduced by 1". This reduction brings it from a 10x2 with 2" showing from the bevel to a 2x2 with no bevel. The math was also good for the cut list. I had 2x12s each yielded 1@10" and 1@2", 1@9" and 1@3" so on and so forth. The only waste was less than 6" off of each end.
[attachthumb=6]
This is only half of them. I was in the process of finishing and did not have acsess to the other half. Just picture it mirrored on the right hand side to complete the arch.
So that brings us to the finish. Pine tar and linseed oil. Here is a link http://www.solventfreepaint.com/pine-tar.htm . I used the light tar did two coats and the home owner wanted it darker. I personally liked it lighter but if the dark tar had been applied without two cotes of the light first it would have been black. so its a happy medium. And the timbers are all the more protected by that third cote.
This is really funny. The ambulance drivers who passed by many times a day and who sometimes stopped to chat (when there wasn't someone in the back) became so aware of me that some of them would turn off there siren as they drove by. The was grate because being in a below grade driveway amplified everything.
