Power and hand together: Building a pair of nightstands

Michael Kellough said:
If you want more visual separation between the corner of the box and the top of the legs consider rotating the brackets 180 degrees in the Z axis, then 90* in the Y or X.

In your last pics the bracket goes up, then in at 45*, then over to get deeper under the box.

Instead, let the bracket go in, then up to get under the box. The simplest shape of this bracket is 1/4 of a ring but you’ll probably want to customize it.

It might look less strong but it really isn’t, especially after all the screws are secured. The box still rests on four screws in sheer at/in the legs.

Thanks Michael

I literally woke up in the middle of the night (it happens when one is 73) and considered what would happen if the construction was tipped over on its side. The strength of the bracket is weak in lateral movement - perhaps not these, but in design. Consequently, this is not the connection I want to use, and I will go back to Plan A.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
The Power of the Press

Drill press, that is.

This is one of those machines I do not want to be without. It has many uses, and today it was used to shape the ends of the risers for the floating cabinets. Not much in the way of hand skills here today.

I purchased the Nova Voyager about 5 years ago courtesy of a Black Friday special and a kind-hearted wife. This replaced a close-to-entry-level 12-speed Taiwanese press I had for about 25 years. For those unfamiliar with the Voyager, here is one feature that I find  so amazing about this machine.

In all the time I have used this drill press I have yet to burn a blade or wood. A few buttons to push, and you can set any type of drill bit, of any size, to turn at the ideal speed for different densities of wood (or metal).

I needed to cut quarter-circles at the end of the support for the cabinet. One could do this with a bandsaw/jigsaw and spindle sander. I do not own a spindle sander .... but, wait, the drill press can become a spindle sander!

Here is the Voyager ...

L1.jpg


Select the drill bit. In this case, a hole saw ...

L2.jpg


Set the size - 54mm ...

L3.jpg


Choose hardwood ...

L5.jpg


Confirm the speed, and it is ready to go ...

L6.jpg


The workpiece is on the left, with a stop block on the right ...

L7.jpg


Flip the workpiece for the second cut ...

L8.jpg


And so on until all four supports are completed.

L9.jpg


Easy peasy.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
A Better Skyhook

The aim is to float the drawer cases above the bases.

1.jpg


There are two stretchers running across the top, and these join the sides with sliding dovetails ...

2.jpg


3.jpg


The sides, and hence the sockets, are angled at approximately 3 degrees, and the mating dovetails need to be angled to match ...

4.jpg


6.jpg


5.jpg


The ends are sawn away ...

K23.jpg


... dovetailed ...

K6.jpg


... and fitted ...

9.jpg


These stretchers are made lower than the aprons to hide them from sight.

K10.jpg


The stretchers require a raised section, and these are finished with curved ends made by a hole saw bit on the drill press ..

10.jpg


... and sanded ...

L11.jpg


The completed rests for the drawer cases ...

14.jpg


Later, all will be glued and screwed together.

Checking the effect ...

15.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
What's to keep the sliding dovetailed stretchers from loosening up over time from jostling back and forth with the usage of the drawer and eventually sliding out of the sides?
 
squall_line said:
What's to keep the sliding dovetailed stretchers from loosening up over time from jostling back and forth with the usage of the drawer and eventually sliding out of the sides?

You mean that it is not enough to have a perfect fit and chewing gum?  [big grin]

So, besides glue - which should make the joint strong enough to stand on - I did think the same as you and add toe nails (at the rear of the stretcher). Here shown from the underside at the rear  ..

M2.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Fiddling all the way to the end

Time to put this build to bed ... or at least next to a bed.

The Jarrah bases are complete with two coats of hard wax oil ...

M1.jpg


The plan is to bolt each drawer case to its base. The reason for this is it will make it possible to transport the nightstands more easily should this be in the future (there is a possibility I may enter them in the furniture competition put on by my club, which takes place in about 6 weeks - I doubt that anyone would take nightstands seriously). Transferring the holes to the case ...

M4.jpg


Inserts are sunk into the case for the M6 bolts ...

M5.jpg


... and bolted down ...

M6.jpg


Time to make drawer pulls. My wife suggested going without anything to retain the clean lines. That would have been nice, just not possible. So the next best idea was to try and make the pulls blend in and be as unobtrusive as possible.

The Tasmanian Oak drawers receive a similar pull. Here the plan is drawn out ...

M8.jpg


The underside of the pull receives a "dimple" for grip ...

M9.jpg


Before cutting out the shape of the bandsaw and shaping with rasps and files, the tenons are pared away ...

M11.jpg


Here the tiny drawer is being morticed for its tiny pull ...

M12.jpg


This is repeated with the larger drawer ...

M13.jpg


M15.jpg


Before the pulls can be fitted, they each need to coped to match the curve of the drawer. But finally ...

M16.jpg


M17.jpg


Note that the pulls are the same diameter as the top of the legs.

The pull on the tiny drawer is a tinier version ...

M18.jpg


Inside the drawer, I finalised the mechanism. This doubles as a guide and a drawer stop.

Closed ...

M19.jpg


Open ...

M20.jpg


The back can now be closed up. Each has a book-matched panel (mainly because I had run out of wood scraps), and is screwed down at the ends. Movement across the grain is permitted by the outer screw holes being elongated.

M21.jpg


And, last but not least, two completed nightstands ...

M22.jpg


I hope that you have enjoyed the journey with me.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
They turned out great!
Why do you think they won't take nightstands seriously? Are the other projects way bigger or more involved? Like highboy dressers and the like?
 
Crazyraceguy said:
They turned out great!
Why do you think they won't take nightstands seriously? Are the other projects way bigger or more involved? Like highboy dressers and the like?

I agree with you, but generally the judges appear to like large, veneered sideboards, and similar. I have won once in the past, and had numerous seconds and thirds for smaller pieces. There appears to be less focus on joinery and method and more on pure looks.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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