Probably posted somewhere else. THIS IS AWESOME!!!

Gr8trim4u

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Jun 23, 2013
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Watched a you tube video using the following parts on my 1400. Where has this been my entire carpentry life. If you want to do furniture finished ends on cabinetry, need to clean up a wood edge top, or just need to flush something up. One pass with these little guys, and a pass with the rotex all is food in the world.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RKLN2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VMR58A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the video link=219s

No need for the bearing bit.

This is awesome!!!
 
It's even better with an OF-1010, which is lighter and easier to handle.  Plus there is a chip deflector for the 1010 which stops you getting showered in bits.

I already had an OF-1400, and it's the reason I bought my 1010; as a hobbyist I couldn't justify a dedicated trim router.

Andrew
 
The OF1010 is a really sweet machine and the edge banding attachment works brilliantly. I show this being used towards the end of the first part of my two part description of the machine.

Part 1:

Part 2:

Peter
 
I have a small yellow dewalt router. I am wanting to get a second router - Festool. Then i can sell the Yellow thing. In a perfect world i would have the 1400 and the 1010
 
If you have the small DeWalt 611 you already have the better router compared to the OF 1010. Never understood the love for the  OF1010.

I suggest just get the Festool OF2200 Router and with the little yellow router you are good to go.

I actually prefer my DeWalt 618 routers over the OF 1400 as well, sold my Of 1400 here because of it.
 
Indeed.  Getting this ended up changing my approach to certain types of woodworking, as I realized I could flush trim to fit rather than try to get things perfect on the initial sizing and alignment.
 
I have the 1010 it stays set for the LR32 . May switch it out and give it a shot.

This attachment has saved me a ton of time. Both trying to get a perfect fit and in my finished product.

 
I wasn't aware of this either. Edge band trimming is the only reason I've been holding onto my MFK700, I definitely prefer my Dewalt trim router to the 700. Might be time for the 700 to find a new home.
 
Gr8trim4u said:
... Where has this been my entire carpentry life...

No need for the bearing bit.

This is awesome!!!

The Lamell Cantex is a bit easier if one desires a tool set up for that effort.
Rather than changing out parts or leaving the router permanently set up.

The parts to make the 1400 do this, are probably better for the occasional hobbiest.
 
Paul Marcel's review of the OF 1400 shows this device attached to the 1400, he also showed the other accessories available at the time. It's a few years old but still very informative.
 
This sounds like a great idea, but I don't have a Festool router so I thought maybe a shop-made one might work with one of my routers. Something like the attached picture. Any thoughts? Will this work? Could put a UHMW sheet on the bottom surface (not shown) so it slides easily.

[attachimg=1]

The block enclosing the bit and the upper block which attaches the whole thin to the router base (using the baseplate mounting holes) could be any appropriately flat hardwood or plywood. The bit would run in a channel cut in the bottom block.
 

Attachments

  • Flush Trim Jig.jpeg
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Mark Katz said:
This sounds like a great idea, but I don't have a Festool router so I thought maybe a shop-made one might work with one of my routers. Something like the attached picture. Any thoughts? Will this work? Could put a UHMW sheet on the bottom surface (not shown) so it slides easily.
You would need to come up with a sane (quick, relieable) way of adjustment to the router bit (parallel, height), apart from that it is doable.
 
OK team, need some advice here.  Trying to use this setup on my 1400 with a bearing flush cutting bit.  Edging is 3/8 ash and maple on a 30 x 60 plywood top.  Overlap is no more than an 1/8 to trim.  Router set at speed 3.  I'm having a b*tch of a time trying to control this.  The videos show the user pulling the router to him for the most part, but in my case, the rotation of the router wants to catch the material and run/jump as a climb cut. Increasing speed to 4 didn't help.  Really hard to figure out what to do to get the corners where they intersect because the base hits the adjacent edging piece.  Have tried to pivot around the corner, but I'm scared I'm going to screw up the plywood top and have to start over again. Cutting right to left works better.  The videos make it look so easy... 
 
fignewton said:
OK team, need some advice here.  Trying to use this setup on my 1400 with a bearing flush cutting bit.  Edging is 3/8 ash and maple on a 30 x 60 plywood top.  Overlap is no more than an 1/8 to trim.  Router set at speed 3.  I'm having a b*tch of a time trying to control this.  The videos show the user pulling the router to him for the most part, but in my case, the rotation of the router wants to catch the material and run/jump as a climb cut. Increasing speed to 4 didn't help.  Really hard to figure out what to do to get the corners where they intersect because the base hits the adjacent edging piece.  Have tried to pivot around the corner, but I'm scared I'm going to screw up the plywood top and have to start over again. Cutting right to left works better.  The videos make it look so easy...

In my video I was using the setup on a very thin bit of edging and did pull the router towards me as a climb cut. For anything more substantial than that you need to use a conventional cut and it the edge being cut is nearest to you and horizontal (as in my video) then you need to be pushing the router away from you.

Peter
 
Thanks, Peter.  Just tried a 1/4 spiral trimming bit, and worked right to left and it worked better.  Then doing the pivot at the left-most corner around onto the next section.  The lack of a chip deflector throws all kinds of chips up ahead of the support base so I have to keep trying to blow them off or it wants to ride up on them.  I think one of the keys to success is to keep the trim piece as low to the top edge as possible when making them so you're not trimming off as much material on a pass.
 
Yes, must have for the OF 1010. A bit awkward for the OF 1400 I feel though.
 
Do not be fooled by the video.

I tried to trim hard maple edge banding (20mm wide and 1 mm thick edging) using OF1010 and 1/4 spiral trimming bit in one pass, I got burn mark and router bit gouged the wood because the wasted material was not removed quickly by dust extractor, and bit ride up on it.

The best machine trimming the edge is Lamello Cantex, no question but expensive. However, it is worth every penny for production shop.

I think what M Power tools' edging trim kit (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z88bctiSUq0&t=23s) does is very similar to what Lamello Cantex does, it should have no problem removing 1mm or a bit more material with a 1/2" shank dish carving bit where OF1010 with edging plate simply cannot.

James

 
jzhu said:
Do not be fooled by the video.

I tried to trim hard maple edge banding (20mm wide and 1 mm thick edging) using OF1010 and 1/4 spiral trimming bit in one pass, I got burn mark and router bit gouged the wood because the wasted material was not removed quickly by dust extractor, and bit ride up on it.

The best machine trimming the edge is Lamello Cantex, no question but expensive. However, it is worth every penny for production shop.

I think what M Power tools' edging trim kit (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z88bctiSUq0&t=23s) does is very similar to what Lamello Cantex does, it should have no problem removing 1mm or a bit more material with a 1/2" shank dish carving bit where OF1010 with edging plate simply cannot.

James

I am afraid I do not like the tone  of the implication that there is any "fooling" in the video.

Peter
 
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