sli said:
.......Brent from Festool pointed out the correct two-handed operation of the Domino, which we were attempting to do, but now that I know the right-handed pressure on the barrel should be light and the left-handed pressure on the fence knob should be very firm, that may help lateral stability some. We'll see. My goal was to phase out pocket screws for our 20mm thick face frames by purchasing a few Dominos set up for repeatable tenon stations. Although I am having second thoughts about that now, I will exchange the Domino in another attempt at this experiment.
As for the 75, I now believe it might have some shaft runout and is defective. I am also exchanging it to try another one. We had thought to use it in a dedicated rip station to trim the large entry doors we build, which can sometimes weigh over 500 lbs. not including hardware or jambs. Typically they are 12/4 hardwood stiles and rails with 8/4 panels, so the saw has not coasted, but it doesn't usually exceed 20 or so cuts a day. I don't consider that heavy use, like our table saws which pretty much run 6-8 hours a day, six days a week. Yes, the saw was calibrated to the rails we use, which are plenty long for their applications, and no we are not plunge cutting mid-stile. The kick back occurs at the beginning of a cut. Remember this is usually 2-3" thick material, not 19mm ply. Brent also pointed out that the 16 tooth Panther was an incorrect application and I should be using the 36 tooth blade, although I had similar results with both blades.
I did purchase the parallel guides with the extensions and have not found a way to make them any more stable or useful. They are going back.
The router was purchased for use with the LR32 and rail for field use on "quickie" on-site cabs (i.e. change orders) and will need to be evaluated when used accordingly. So far, I have not had a job where it was called for.
I appreciate all the responses and solutions and may contact some of you when I can, as per your invitations.
Sli, I'm glad you took the time to post an update. I hope you can keep us informed as you and your guys get more time in with the tools. Let me throw out some of my thoughts on the issues you're having that might help.
The Domino is a fabulous tool, but there is a learning curve. If you guys are used to biscuit joiners and are expecting the Domino to be used the same way you'll surely run into the problems, like the one you're having. First, the Domino is a super precise tool and it doesn't take much faulty input from the operator for it to go wrong. You've got the right hand positioning now and I assume Brent talked to you about plunge rate. I think plunge rate, specifically plunging too fast, is the bulk of the problem. With a biscuit joiner you can just plunge that sucker in pretty much as fast as you want, not the case with the Domino. It's hard to say how fast is too fast but a moderate pace for the plunge is right. It will seem fairly slow in comparison to a biscuit joiner. Hands on time is needed to figure it out, and I'm sure you guys will.
Edited to add: You mentioned the pieces not going all the way together, are you always using dust collection with the Domino? If not that could be the problem.
Now for the Domino to replace pocket screws for face frame construction. It sounds like you guys are setup for production so I'm guessing you can bang out pocket holes quickly. With the Domino it will be a much slower process and add the time of gluing/clamping, well, this could be a big step back for your production. I say play with the Domino for the 30 days and see how things go. You might find other uses that justify keeping it even if it doesn't work out with the face frames.
I have the TS55 and my experience with it has been nothing short of spectacular. I am a remodeling contractor but I also do some smaller cabinet and built-in jobs so my uses and applications probably differ from yours to some degree. I do have a ton of experience of cutting doors with my plunge saw. You're right about cutting thick materials being significantly different that cutting 3/4" ply. You have to keep some downward pressure on the saw's handles or the saw want to lift up during the cut.
Also, and this is a big one, you have to let the saw get up to full speed before you start the cut. If not you're going to get some amount of kickback almost every time. You can get away with less care in thinner materials but not so much in the thick stuff.
Someone already posted about your not being alone about a dislike of the parallel guides. I have them and make good use of them despite any comings in the design. But, if you don't see them fitting into your work flow then you've probably made the right choice in letting them go.
Now, the LR32 may not work out as you envision. The LR32 doesn't work well, if at all, on cabinets all ready assembled. The guide rail needs to be clamped down to work correctly and that is difficult or impossible on an assembled cabinet box. I'd suggest you try out your ideas and decided if it's going to work before too much time passes.
If I can offer any more assistance just let me know, post your questions here or contact me through PM or email. Good luck.