Project to build walnut doors with stained glass -COMPLETED

[Frank Pellow]

Frank, that's the walnut door jamb you're using the LS130 on?

So what is your point Ken?  ???  New door frames and jambs are part of the project.

There was no point.  I was asking a question just to clarify what it was I was looking at because I wasn't 100% sure looking at it on my screen.

Sorry about that Ken.  I guess that I should have said something about using the sander on the door frame when I posted the picture.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Frank, back to a question about sanding the door frame.  Benefits to using the linear sanding LS130 compared to the orbital sanding RTS400?

 

[Frank Pellow]

Frank, back to a question about sanding the door frame.  Benefits to using the linear sanding LS130 compared to the orbital sanding RTS400?

I don't own the RTS400 so I can't answer your question directly.  But, I do own the Deltex 93 and it has a similar but smaller triangular pad and it too is orbital.  I find the LS 130 to be less aggresive and easier to use over larger areas then the Deltex 93.  I am sanding the final 120-150-180-220 passes here and the pure linear direction of the LS130 means no danger of swirl marks to mar the finish before I apply the Tung oil.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Thanks for the info, Frank.

If anyone here does have both the LS130 and RTS400, I'd be interested in knowing if you'd have used the RTS or not or you feel the same as Frank, worried about swirl marks.

Thanks.

 

[Frank Pellow]

2011, March 27:

The second set of doors was installed this week -about one week later than my original objective.

Here is a photo taken part way down the stairway and that shows most of both sets of doors:

[attachimg=#1]

I now realize that the glass doors into the front closet will have to go.  I will probably build some out of walnut veneer -whether or not, I make the veneer remains to be seen.

Also, longer term (probably next winter) I will build match walnut doors with stained glass for the doorway between the dining room and kitchen:

[attachimg=#2]

The work never ends.   [huh] [big grin]

 

[Wonderwino]

Looks great, Frank!  Have you thought about making a new entry door for the house to match?  LOL!  (I wouldn't want your tools to gather dust!  LOL!)  [big grin]

 

[Frank Pellow]

Looks great, Frank!  Have you thought about making a new entry door for the house to match?  LOL!  (I wouldn't want your tools to gather dust!  LOL!)   [big grin]

Thanks.

Indeed, I have thought about replacing the entry door.  But, it is quite substatial and well made out of solid wood, so I don't think I will do so.  If I get better at working with stained glass, I might make something to replace the stained glass that is currently in the door.

 

[Frank Pellow]

Frank -

Those really turned out well.  The Walnut really pops nicely.  Appreciated the step-by-step you always find time to provide.

The only thing I might change would be the knobs - perhaps a hammered pewter type metal or even a faceted glass knob might have been a nice compliment to the glass?

Thanks for sharing!

neil

Neil, I have been thinking about your suggestion for a long time. Today, I did something about it and replaced the porcelain knobs with amber faceted glass knobs with solid brass fittings. They look really good.  I thank you for the suggestion.

[attachimg=#1]

 

[nclemmons]

Frank -

That really looks nice.  Definitely an improvement and accents the stained glass nicely.

Neil

 

[GaryLaroff]

Thanks for the info, Frank.

If anyone here does have both the LS130 and RTS400, I'd be interested in knowing if you'd have used the RTS or not or you feel the same as Frank, worried about swirl marks.

Thanks.

Ken, I have all six of the possible sanders for this job: Deltex 93, LS130,  ETS125, RS2, RTS400 and DTS400. 

The ETS125 being a ROS, I don't think I would trust it on this narrow area.  The Deltex, in my opinion, is for very small areas and not that easy to keep flat for a long distance.  I use it where nothing else will fit.  that leaves the other four flat sanders.

I don't use the LS130 unless I really have to , such as on straight profiled sections, such as molding.  The sander has the tendency to bounce occasionally, or more often, so I would go with a sander that was more controlled.

If the sections are long enough, and they seem like they are, I would use the RS2.  The true value of the RS2 shows when you apply finish.  The shinier the better.  For a truly even and flat surface, the best of the Festool sanders is the RS2.

If the area is too narrow or short for the RS2, then I would use the RTS400.  The difference between the RTS400 and DTS400 is mighty small for long rectangular areas and I just keep coming back to using the RTS400.

When sanding up to or past P180 Brilliant 2 with the three orbital sanders RS2, RTS400 and DTS400 I haven't had swirl marks with mahogany, walnut or cherry.  But, I usually wet down the piece after sanding, let it dry and then hand sand lightly with the last piece of sandpaper that had been used on the machine to get rid of the fuzzies that pop up.  Maybe that helps remove any swirl marks.

Gary

 

[waho6o9]

Good call on the amber glass knobs, looks mighty  nice.

 

[Frank Pellow]

This thread: http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/another-pair-of-wlanut-doors-with-stained-glass-inserts/msg226990/#msg226990 describes the follow-up project for matching doors between the dining room and kitchen.