Putting a 1+1/8" deep groove on the edge of a 3/4" board

[ChicagoNewGuy]

Hi,
I'm looking for advice on how to put a groove on the edge of a board. I'm pretty new to carpentry so I apologize in advance if I use the wrong terminology.
I've got a board 3/4" thick 3" wide and 18" long
I need to put a centered groove on the long edge of the board that is 1/4" wide x 1+1/8" deep
I've got a TS55 Plunge Saw, OF1400 Router, MFS 400, MFT3, some clamps and QwasDogs.
I just got the OF1400 and MFS, I actually don't have any router bits yet so I'm looking forward to getting some and using them.
Whenever I've seen this done online or on TV, they use a tablesaw set at 1+1/8" high and slide the piece though longways and then flip it around and slide it through again to get it centered.
I don't have a tablesaw and I don't really want one so I'm hoping someone can show me how to do this with the powertools I've got.
Thanks!

 

[Vindingo]

You could use a slot cutting bit on your OF1400, though I don't know if you will find one 1-1/8"

Or use (you can also make one) the Fes router guide with a straight bit

 

[tbellemare]

You could conceivably clamp it to the edge of the MFT so that the edge is coplanar with the MFT top. Use the MFS as a fence and run down the length in ever increasing depth passes.

It's a bit of a cludge but would work.

Tom

EDIT:
Like this (you might note that I'm not touching the router)...

[attachimg=#]

 

[mouppe]

You could use your router with a straight bit, but it is hard and dangerous to balance it on a 3/4" edge. Clamp the workpiece in between other pieces of wood to give yourself a wider base to run the router on.

Alternatively, you could cut a rabbet on a piece 1/2" thick and glue the piece to a 1/4" board. The rabbet will be in the middle of the two and you will have your 1/4" groove.

The best straight router bits are spiral bits. They're a little more expensive than simple straight bits, but well worth the extra $$$. They look similar to drill bits (obviously they're quite different in the way they work  ).

 

[RONWEN]

The Festool Sysnote has an article on the plexiglass mortise tool  - - also show using two (2) parallel edge guides back to back for the same purpose.  It seems to me that Brice Burrell has a demo video using them back to back on his website.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2010/09/15/The-Plexiglase284a2-Routing-Aid-Mortises-Made-Easy.aspx

[attachimg=#]

 

[davee]

The above options all seem feasible.  However, using only the tools you currently have I'd clamp the board to the edge of the MFT and flush with the top of the MFT table.  The TS and rail could be used to cut to the depth you desire - you might need a couple of passes to get the thickness you desire. 

 

[Jesse Cloud]

You can do it with a shop made jig and a router template guide (aka, copy ring, guide bearing, etc).  Your 1400 should have come with a guide bushing adapter (round contraption that snaps into the bottom of the router.  This lets you use porter cable style guide bushings (forget about the Festool metric guide bushings).  You can get the PC bushings at any of the big box stores, here's a link.  PC guide bushings.

Use your 1400 to route a straight groove thru a piece of mdf.  The groove needs to be the outside diameter of the guide bushing and a little longer than the length of the groove you wish to cut in your workpiece.  If the exact length of the final cut is important, let me know and I will elaborate on what "a little longer" means.

Get a piece of scrap hardwood about as long as the groove, clamp it to your workpiece face next to the edge so its flush.  Position the mft on the workpiece edge and attach the mdf to the fence (nail, screw, whatever).

Now put a straight bit the width of the groove you wish to cut in the 1400 with the guide bushing on it.  Set the bushing in the groove and the groove will guide it and the router where you want to cut.  Take a few passes to get to the final depth.

If the guide bushing is longer than your mdf is thick, get thicker mdf or cut/grind the bushing down.

This is a little trouble, but not much expense and it opens a lot of doors, for instance, cutting mortises.

 

[RONWEN]

You could conceivably clamp it to the edge of the MFT so that the edge is coplanar with the MFT top. Use the MFS as a fence and run down the length in ever increasing depth passes.

It's a bit of a cludge but would work.

Tom

EDIT:
Like this (you might note that I'm not touching the router)...

[attachimg=#]

Actually, using Tom's idea & since you have an MFS400 the board could be setup as Tom shows then set the MFS to the correct width for a guide bushing centered over the board edge -- route almost the entire 18" length then unclamp the board & slide it to get the remaining ~3 inches of length.

 

[Scott B.]

The Festool Sysnote has an article on the plexiglass mortise tool  - - also show using two (2) parallel edge guides back to back for the same purpose.  It seems to me that Brice Burrell has a demo video using them back to back on his website.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2010/09/15/The-Plexiglase284a2-Routing-Aid-Mortises-Made-Easy.aspx

[attachimg=#]

Ugh. I wish I would have ssen this earlier. You should see the ghetto rig I had to assemble in the shop today to make 4 simple shaker style doors.  [scared]

 

[mouppe]

I had another read through this thread since posting, and whilst the advice given is valid, it has to be remembered that the OP said he was new to carpentry. If so, I would not suggest cutting a 1/4" wide groove 1 1/8" deep on a 3/4" edge. This is fraught with danger as you have a long cutting bit in an enclosed slot and any tilt either way could cause the bit to jump or dig in. At the least I would perform this cut on a router table.

The OP said he hasn't any router bits so it is possible he has not handled a router before.

I would reiterate my suggestion- cut a rabbet on a 1/2" piece and glue it to 1/4" piece.

 

[semenza]

Hi ChicagoNewGuy,

Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

Many ways to do it described, considering you have all the items  to do it the way Tom shows I think that would work well for you.

Seth

 

[John Stevens]

Here's a way:  build a right-angle jig.  See pics below.  Takes lots of time to build, and although you can do a lot with it with a Festool circular saw or router, a table saw or router table can usually do those tasks faster and easier.

The thing in the pics is an open-ended box about as long as a 1400mm (55") guide rail.  It's got things that are similar in function to t-tracks mounted on the side.  You clamp the work to them.  You put the guide rail on top.  You clamp it in position with Festool clamps, or you make little grooves at the end and put t-bolts through it, and tighten the t-bolts with wing nuts or cams or ratcheting things, or whatever.   (Making the grooves for the t-bolts takes more time, but it allows you to adjust the position more precisely, in my experience.)

Hope this helps.  Feel free to ask questions.

Regards,

John

 

[nclemmons]

John

That is a cool jig!  Is that a special t-track on the side?

neil

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I had another read through this thread since posting, and whilst the advice given is valid, it has to be remembered that the OP said he was new to carpentry. If so, I would not suggest cutting a 1/4" wide groove 1 1/8" deep on a 3/4" edge. This is fraught with danger as you have a long cutting bit in an enclosed slot and any tilt either way could cause the bit to jump or dig in. At the least I would perform this cut on a router table.

The OP said he hasn't any router bits so it is possible he has not handled a router before.

I would reiterate my suggestion- cut a rabbet on a 1/2" piece and glue it to 1/4" piece.

Well put Richard.

 

[tbellemare]

I had another read through this thread since posting, and whilst the advice given is valid, it has to be remembered that the OP said he was new to carpentry. If so, I would not suggest cutting a 1/4" wide groove 1 1/8" deep on a 3/4" edge. This is fraught with danger as you have a long cutting bit in an enclosed slot and any tilt either way could cause the bit to jump or dig in. At the least I would perform this cut on a router table.

The OP said he hasn't any router bits so it is possible he has not handled a router before.

I would reiterate my suggestion- cut a rabbet on a 1/2" piece and glue it to 1/4" piece.

Well put Richard.

Very good call, Richard!

I must admit that my mind didn't properly wrap around the part about not yet having any router bits.

Tom

 

[semenza]

I had another read through this thread since posting, and whilst the advice given is valid, it has to be remembered that the OP said he was new to carpentry. If so, I would not suggest cutting a 1/4" wide groove 1 1/8" deep on a 3/4" edge. This is fraught with danger as you have a long cutting bit in an enclosed slot and any tilt either way could cause the bit to jump or dig in. At the least I would perform this cut on a router table.

The OP said he hasn't any router bits so it is possible he has not handled a router before.

I would reiterate my suggestion- cut a rabbet on a 1/2" piece and glue it to 1/4" piece.

Well put Richard.

Very good call, Richard!

I must admit that my mind didn't properly wrap around the part about not yet having any router bits.

Tom

I think this is a good idea too, but it does requiure the tools to make 1/2" and 1/4" thick wood, or a source to buy it from. Not sure about that part of the situation for ChicagoNewGuy.

Seth

 

[ChicagoNewGuy]

Everyone, thank-you very much for the input.
Indeed, I have never used a hand router before, I've taken a class on using a router table but i don't have one.
It's good to know that this isn't the first cut I should attempt!
Based on that, I think I'm going to try Davees recommendation to use the TS and the guide rail at the edge of the MFT table.  I've had the TS for a few years and I'm pretty comfortable with it now.
These were all some great ideas, I really appreciate everyone's help.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The OP is "new to carpentry" so maybe he should reconsider the task.

I've been doing WWing for over 30 years and I've never found the need to make a groove that proportion. What is the goal?

That said, I've been a fan of John Stevens jig for several years but still haven't made my own. He used some (currently) NAINA Festool extrusions on the side but the Woodpecker Super Track would be even better. If you gring just a little bit off the sides of the Festool clamps they will fit into the tracks (same with Dewalt track clamps)

You could clamp the work to the side of your MFT but be careful to shim it to make sure it's perpendicular to the MFT surface. This may not be an issue with the MFT/3 but the sides of the older MFTs are off about a degree.

I suppose you don't have a plate joiner but that is a quick way to make groove though I'm not sure you can get the full 1-1/8" depth you asked for. Just clamp the work flat on the table and make two passes with the tool. You just have to set the depth to max but you do have to carefully set the fence depth. Again, not sure you can get the full depth desired but why does it need to be that deep?

Porter-Cable 557

 

[davee]

I just made a cut of the dimensions you desire using the MFT and plunge saw.  It was completed in several minutes with no trouble.  I would further recommend marking and making the first cut and then rotate the piece and make the second cut.  I "guessed" the kerf size on mine.  I'd further recommend clamping the rail.  I didn't clamp the rail and it moved ever so slightly making a trim cut necessary.  Good luck.

 

[ChicagoNewGuy]

Thanks again everyone,
I'm planning to make this tool storage cabinet I saw on woodsmith shop.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season3/301/
There is a link to the plans on that page.  The bottom rails, part K, require the groove to fit the screen door rollers.

I do have an MFT 3 and I'll be sure to check for square before using the TS55.  Thanks for trying it out Davee and for the extra advice on clamping.

I really appreciate everyone's advice and concern for safety, I'm really glad I posted here rather than "playing it by ear".