recent kitchen install

[Guy Ashley]

thanks guy ive noticed already that everyone is really friendly on here and willing too help [smile]
yeah the client wanted too save money and my boss didnt want the responsibility even though i said i would like too do it. but i do know what you mean. why spend all thast money on a kitchen then scrimp and scrape on the things that count

Oh dont worry mate, that all changes when the Six Nations are on!!! ;D and then when the Rugby World Cup is up we can all have a go at the Aussie FOG members!!! [scared]

Hey Justin, I see the All Blacks smashed you off the park again! [laughing] [laughing]

 

[sean_hogan]

mmm a wonder why lol

 

[lambeater]

thanks guy ive noticed already that everyone is really friendly on here and willing too help [smile]
yeah the client wanted too save money and my boss didnt want the responsibility even though i said i would like too do it. but i do know what you mean. why spend all thast money on a kitchen then scrimp and scrape on the things that count

Oh dont worry mate, that all changes when the Six Nations are on!!! ;D and then when the Rugby World Cup is up we can all have a go at the Aussie FOG members!!! [scared]

Hey Justin, I see the All Blacks smashed you off the park again! [laughing] [laughing]

Don't know what you guys are talking about but I luv it!!! [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]
Go  AB'S [not worthy] [not worthy]
Lambeater

 

[honeydoman]

Hey nice job and installation. Yep that's people for you. Spend big bucks then cheek out on stuff.

Had a lady spend over $500,000 on a whole house gut and re do 5,000 sq ft house.  I did some doors and glass deck railing. Gave her a quote when hose was almost done to do custom trim work for about $2,500. She hired the floor installers helper to base and case for $300 bucks plus material and he did a horrible job and it looked like crap cuts with off angles cuts etc. She told me yep you get what you pay for and it really downgraded the whole house

But thanks for sharing !

 

[Wooden Lungs]

Hi Sean, the kitchen looks great. Can I ask how you set up the base units though.

I tend to put a 2x1 planed batten on the wall with gripfill and screws and plugs to give me my datum.

This batten is obviously only put where units will sit! I mark out fridges etc first.

I then notch the back of each unit with a jigsaw to allow them to sit snug against the wall.

For granite worktops I always use this process as I was told it helps take the extra weight.

Am I wasting my time with the batten? should I just lay out the units and use the supplied brackets to fix them to the wall?

I do find if I have used a datum batten that it speeds up levelling of the units as you can lay the level on top of the batten and wind your units adjustable feet up to meet it.

On all kitchens we fit I measure the Kicker or plinth height and then set each adjustable foot about 5mm more .Also taken into account is the floor finish ie: tile, lino etc.

This allows me to avoid cutting the plinth or kickers later and usually leave a nice gap to easily install or remove them.

And finally I tend to fit my wall units first as this eliminates the danger of a hiccup damaging a fitted base unit and you can stand closer to the wall when fitting them.

For walls that are difficult ie: dot and dab or stone (I live in Devon and some of the stone walls are in an awfull state!!) I sometimes use a batten below the wall units which is generally hidden with pelmets later.

This give me piece of mind that my fixings will take any weight that the clients put in the wall cupboards.

Any tips would be very welcome.
Thanks.

PS: I love the gratuitous shots of your festools....they look new and shiny, Legend.

 

[sean_hogan]

Hi Sean, the kitchen looks great. Can I ask how you set up the base units though.

I tend to put a 2x1 planed batten on the wall with gripfill and screws and plugs to give me my datum.

This batten is obviously only put where units will sit! I mark out fridges etc first.

I then notch the back of each unit with a jigsaw to allow them to sit snug against the wall.

For granite worktops I always use this process as I was told it helps take the extra weight.

Am I wasting my time with the batten? should I just lay out the units and use the supplied brackets to fix them to the wall?

I do find if I have used a datum batten that it speeds up levelling of the units as you can lay the level on top of the batten and wind your units adjustable feet up to meet it.

On all kitchens we fit I measure the Kicker or plinth height and then set each adjustable foot about 5mm more .Also taken into account is the floor finish ie: tile, lino etc.

This allows me to avoid cutting the plinth or kickers later and usually leave a nice gap to easily install or remove them.

And finally I tend to fit my wall units first as this eliminates the danger of a hiccup damaging a fitted base unit and you can stand closer to the wall when fitting them.

For walls that are difficult ie: dot and dab or stone (I live in Devon and some of the stone walls are in an awfull state!!) I sometimes use a batten below the wall units which is generally hidden with pelmets later.

This give me piece of mind that my fixings will take any weight that the clients put in the wall cupboards.

Any tips would be very welcome.
Thanks.

PS: I love the gratuitous shots of your festools....they look new and shiny, Legend.

Hi wooden lungs thanks for the kind comments [smile]
for the the base units i use a laser line too get my datum line to were the tops of base units sits(unit,plinth,allow for floor covering) then i just fit all the units stright too the wall with l brackets and put a fixing in if i dont catch a stud or if its brick wall with plaster, i personlly dont think you need the baton even with granite worktops, im 14 stone and 1 base units can take my weight so when the weight of a worktop is spread evenly over several base units i dont see them struggling.
Yes i normally fit my wall units 1st but in the case they were wrong and had too be sent back so i just cracked on with the base units,also that wall in the picture i built as part of the owners new exstension i put pads in were the units were goin inbetween the studs and if there are no pads in a cut open the wall and put them in, i think when the brackets are srewed directly into timber you wont pull them off the wall, anyway the heaviest thing in cupboards is plates and they are not all that heavy. hope ive helped 

 

[MattM]

That looks amazing. Well done sir.