Recommendations For Butcher Block Counter/Island?

[usernumber1]

I think it comes down to looks nowadays. The endgrain look might be too intense for some, depending how it's finished, if there's any pattern and which wood was used. You do have some design options if you use more than one species with patterns.

Sidegrain is most common since you can just buy countertops premade at ikea or homedepot that's what everyone is used to .  they redefined the word definition of 'butcher block' in the process.

For finish I would recommend osmo topoil. it's designed for countertops and is food safe. If you are using it for cutting then just mineral oil. Another option is 50:50 pure tung oil:citrus solvent

 

[Packard]

This site compared the dulling properties of end grain vs face grain vs resin cutting boards over a period of 2,000 calibrated cuts.

I’m not sure of the validity of using just one knife for each cutting board (I think repeating the tests 5 times as a minimum makes the results more convincing), but the results are indicative and interesting.

And not what I, or the testing team expected.

(And don’t use bamboo cutting boards, end grain or face grain).

And some non-intuitive results on acacia boards.
http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

 

[Cheese]

http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

Packard, there's something wacky with that KnifeGrinders article. The knives are actually getting sharper rather than duller.  [eek]

 

[Packard]

http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

Packard, there's something wacky with that KnifeGrinders article. The knives are actually getting sharper rather than duller.  [eek]

I know.  And in the absence of several goes at it, it is not much more than annecdotal.  You would think that the surprising results would have been confirmed by repeated testing.

There is a lot written about this subject.  Some of it seems hinky, some seems logical.

This article gives some basic information.
https://www.cuttingboard.com/blog/which-cutting-boards-are-best-for-knives/

(Note: While doing this research a newsflash banner streamed across my screen:  Justin Timberlake arrested for drunk driving on Long Island.  If it was important enough to interrupt my research, it is certainly of interest to all. [big grin])

My search that pulled up all this information is here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=doe...rpness&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

 

[Packard]

http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

Packard, there's something wacky with that KnifeGrinders article. The knives are actually getting sharper rather than duller.  [eek]

On the same “wacky-meter”, I have always found that the second and third shave with a new razor blade shaves smoother than the first shave.  This may be partially based on a placebo-like effect, but I do believe it is true.  I have found this for a variety of blades.  Perhaps the first shave acts as a stropping.  I don’t know.  Also, counter-intuitive.  It is the reason I did not discard the results of that test.  Not enough information to make a judgement.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I was always under the impression that end grain was not so much about the knife itself, but what happens to the board. Edge grain gets cut by the knife, and over time you cut chunks out of it. This does not happen with end grain. It's not entirely "self healing", but somewhat knife resistant. (way more than edge grain anyway)

There is a bit of a trend lately, with wooden countertops, at least around here. For the most part, the common thing is finger-jointed White Oak. We have done a few in the last couple of years. I even made a dining table from the drop.

I like Tung Oil myself, diluted pretty heavily the first coat, for better penetration. You have to be more careful with it though. We used a conversion varnish on the ones for customers. It has to stand up to people's expectations.

 

[alltracman78]

Thank you all for the information.
Lots to ponder.
I do like the staggered end grain idea, but as one of you said, I may lose my GD mind.  [eek]
I may play with the maple first, because it's very easy to find. See how painful gluing up smaller sections are.

I actually prefer using solid wood stock...ie...no glue lines as there will be no substrate to fail. I've done the glued together cutting board thing and eventually the glue line will fail, that's a given. Remember the chain and the weakest link continuum?

Here's a glued maple board from Kohler, it lasted 2-3 years. And here's a solid walnut board I made, I fully expect 10 years plus from it...maybe even 15. It's already at the 5 year level and going strong.

The end grain board is even more problematic because instead of having 7-8 lineal glue lines, it has a glue line every 1.5" over its entire surface in both directions. More glue lines = more potential issues. Again, recite the chain and the weakest link thing... [smile]

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My understanding has always been a properly glued joint is stronger than the wood itself?
Obviously those are failing. Lower quality?
I haven't made a cutting board since wood class in high school. Almost 30 years ago. I wonder what they look like and if my mom still has them? I'll have to ask.

 

[alltracman78]

The cutting boards I built are still going strong. Dimension wise they're just as they were almost 30 years ago when new.
No dishwashers, and they do get oiled on occasion. No other care. They sit in the cupboard, get used and cleaned.

I was just a high school kid, so nothing special about the construction.
I'll get a picture up.

 

[alltracman78]

Cutting boards

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