Removing glass from vinyl window sash?

[4nthony]

I have an extra lower window sash and was thinking about using the glass in a door project.

Other than carefully attacking it with a multi-tool, are there any other strategies you'd try to get the glass out?

 

[Ron B]

If it is like Andersen double pane windows, just be aware the glass may be only single strength. I found this out the hard way when I found the double strength glass I had for replacement would not fit. So decide if you want single or double strength in a door before you take out the glass.   
Can't help on how to remove the glass.  Miy window was broken so getting the glass out was not an issue.  The thing about taking out glass, it either works or it doesn't. 

 

[Packard]

I believe the joints are welded using an ultrasonic welder. 

I think I would heat up a thin strip of steel while holding it with a vice grip.

Then press the thin edge into the existing weld. If the steel is hot enough it will melt the vinyl easily.  You will have to repeat on the reverse side.

My guess is that the vinyl is flexible enough that once that first corner is open, you will be able to simply banana-peel the rest from the glass.

Note:  I have not tried this.  It would be the first thing I tried.  Also note, heating glass unevenly can result in shattered glass.

 

[4nthony]

Thanks guys. I'll give the heated steel trick a try.

The thing about taking out glass, it either works or it doesn't.

I've been staring at it for quite some time trying to think of a way to repurpose it. If it breaks, then so be it.

It's like a piece of scrap wood. I kept it because I thought I might be able to use it for something.

[cool]

 

[Packard]

The fact of the matter is that single strength glass is really cheap.  If you are using a lot of it, you can buy it by the case and cut it to size. 

But even single pieces are pretty cheap.  I don’t see much justification in spending many hours on this.

On the other hand, my door to my deck needs to be replaced.  It has a single piece of insulated glass about 70” x 21”.  When I replace that, I will try to salvage the glass and put it in my front door.  Insulated glass is rather expensive. 

Addendum:  Most commercial grades of PVC melt at about 160C (or about 320F). 

Steel starts to change color at about 800 degrees F, so well before you see a change in the color of the steel.

 

[guybo]

Hi, is there a glazing bead on the other side? If so that should pop off, then on the side you have showing cut the silicon bead that hold it in.

 

[Peter Kelly]

There was an article a while back in FHB where the author purchased cheapie vinyl windows from a home center just to get the insulated glass units out for a set of carriage doors.https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pr...p-a-garage-door-with-insulated-carriage-doors

That said, BOCA does state that glass installed in an entry door or in a window directly adjacent to a door needs to be tempered.

 

[Packard]

There was an article a while back in FHB where the author purchased cheapie vinyl windows from a home center just to get the insulated glass units out for a set of carriage doors.https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pr...p-a-garage-door-with-insulated-carriage-doors

That said, BOCA does state that glass installed in an entry door or in a window directly adjacent to a door needs to be tempered.

I’m sure that the reeded glass sidelights on my 1953 built home are just plain glass.  Glass block would be a good option for replacement.  Strong and difficult to breach and insulated (but looking very dated). 

Mine are legal because they are grandfathered in.  If I replace the door, I will have to replace the sidelights too. 

As a safety issue, I should replace the sidelights anyway.  Maybe.  Someday. 

Back in 1958 or so, storm doors and storm windows were a new thing.  My neighbor’s son was about 7 years old and he made it a practice to run full speed ahead and and straight arm the lever that would unlatch the door. I don’t see that type of latch anymore.  You pushed it and it allowed the door to unlatch.

At any rate one day David did his straight arm bit and missed the lever and slammed his 7-year-old hand through the glass.  It required an incredible amount of stitches to put his hand together. 

That was probably the type of event that was the impetus for the tempered glass requirement. 

If you have a possessed-7-year-old-dervish living in your home, then definitely get the old glass replaced as soon as possible.

 

[4nthony]

Hi, is there a glazing bead on the other side? If so that should pop off, then on the side you have showing cut the silicon bead that hold it in.

I was able score the plastic bead on the other side with a utility knife and pop them out. A thin putty knife was able to slide between the vinyl and the glass on the other side to break the silicon bead. Took less than 10 minutes.

Thanks to your reply, I took a much closer look at the window rather than attacking it with the methods mentioned above. Thank you!

There was an article a while back in FHB where the author purchased cheapie vinyl windows from a home center just to get the insulated glass units out for a set of carriage doors.https://www.finehomebuilding.com/pr...p-a-garage-door-with-insulated-carriage-doors

That said, BOCA does state that glass installed in an entry door or in a window directly adjacent to a door needs to be tempered.

I recently subscribed to FHB so this link is very appropriate and timely. Thanks!

 

[Packard]

If it is like Andersen double pane windows, just be aware the glass may be only single strength. I found this out the hard way when I found the double strength glass I had for replacement would not fit. So decide if you want single or double strength in a door before you take out the glass.   
Can't help on how to remove the glass.  Miy window was broken so getting the glass out was not an issue.  The thing about taking out glass, it either works or it doesn't.

This confused me right from the beginning.

Single strength glass was at one time far in the past 1/8” nominal, but is now somewhere around 0.100” thick. 

Double strength glass likewise is a single pane of glass about 0.0200” thick.

(I will look those up shortly.)

Insulated glass consists of two panes of glass with a space between them. Originally these were insulated by virtue of a vacuum.  But they could not maintain the seal and the vacuum (and insulating properties) were lost.

They are currently produced with a gas instead of a vacuum.  That apparently resolved the seal issue.

Correction:  My thicknesses cited are way off.  I found this online

Single strength glass is 3/32″ thick and is most commonly used in picture frames. Double strength is 1/8″ thick and stronger than single strength so can be used in many more applications.

 

[guybo]

Glad to help,what type of henrybuilt uses glass  [big grin] btw nice job on the kitchen and consol

 

[4nthony]

Single strength glass is 3/32″ thick and is most commonly used in picture frames. Double strength is 1/8″ thick and stronger than single strength so can be used in many more applications.

Both panes of glass in this window are 1/8" thick. Total window thickness is 7/8".

I'm thinking of building a door similar to this:

Glad to help,what type of henrybuilt uses glass  [big grin] btw nice job on the kitchen and consol

Thanks! Both were fun projects, even if they took forever to complete

 

[rst]

Having replaced insulating units by the hundreds in the last 45 years, the unit either has stops which can be challenging or easy, or the unit is a wrap around and is screwed to internal angles.  Even if the corners are welded, it will come apart. The glass is more likely to be single, 3/32 than double, 1/8.  Double is generally only used on large units

 

[Peter Kelly]

Both panes of glass in this window are 1/8" thick. Total window thickness is 7/8".

I'm thinking of building a door similar to this:

I've done two just like this so far for my house, one more to go. Domino tenons all the way.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[rst]

Any glazing in a door must be safety, tempered, laminated or plastic.  Your insulated unit is non of the above.  I strongly recommend against using it so