Repair after Popcorn Ceiling removal

[Vtshopdog]

Our son just purchased his first home, he lives in another state. It has popcorn ceilings with asbestos and they have hired a reputable service to remove the popcorn (with all proper precautions) but resurfacing and painting will not be performed by this company.

I will likely go visit and help with painting and any restoration needed before they move in later next month but wondering if anyone here has experience with how much damage to expect to the underlying surface from the removal process. I have pretty much no concept of what it might look like. Obviously could be a whole range, maybe it will be trashed and he should just hire someone with tools to come in and do a full texture and we prime and paint it or maybe the surface will just need some mud and sanding. They'll have about 2 weeks from completion of removal to their planned move in.

Any input appreciated. Thanks

 

[Mike Goetzke]

My house (we purchased used) was built in the late '70's and had popcorn ceilings throughout. Mine were there from day one so mine had bare drywall with poor seam and nail hole patch job. I had to spend time and fix these. I always say they charged the customer extra for this and saved $ on the poor drywall finishing. If it wasn't painted, it's messy, but, if you spray it with water and let it soak a bit it comes off pretty easy with a wide drywall tool.

 

[tjbnwi]

Patch as needed, thin compound, roll on with 3/4” nap roller, skim with 24-36” skimming blade. Gently sand, prime with USG First Coat or Tuff Hide. I believe the Tuff Hide is spray only.

If you feel confident this can all be done standing on the floor with extension handles.

I used a differnt brand but they’re no longer in business, Skimming blades;

https://www.level5tools.com/skimming-blades/?srsltid=AfmBOoqQ8OVGYO_boosyxqs6yIYWON7vPFmrc5dcdSS_CWLm2vbxbyqv

Tom

 

[Packard]

If they have torn through the paper in spots, then you probably want to seal it before using any water-based paints. I would first apply Kilz shellac based primer (with plenty of ventilation).

You can then go with the paint of your choice if the surface looks smooth enough. If not, there are some extra-thick primers that are reputed to cover small imperfections. I have never used one of these, so don’t consider it a recommendation—just information. A second coat of primer might be all that you need. The second coat can be water based. I like 1-2-3 primer.

Finally, there are ultra-flat finish paints that are less likely to show imperfections. Benjamin Moore’s is a good choice and I understand it can be tinted.

https://store.benjaminmoore.com/storefront/us/en/coating/interior-paints/benjamin-moore/waterborne-ceiling-paint/p/0508?srsltid=AfmBOoqK240SbVuve3saCDVxKol7S7epsNNFzZdOLhQsL56WNg0kOT6T

Addendum (my post and TJ’s above were entered at the same time.)

I agree with TJ’s response above, but I find sanding overhead very tiring. I personally avoid it whenever possible. But major imperfections should be mudded over and sanded before applying primer or paint.

 

[dicktill]

Can you cover it with a layer of 1/4" drywall?

 

[tjbnwi]

I agree with Packard, any browns has to be cover with something other than water borne. Kilz makes a spray, Up Shot for these applications.

Tom

 

[Vtshopdog]

OK, thanks, this is good input. I have not even seen the house, but I think they are wise to get it pulled down now before moving in as it's just not something to ever do while living there. I'm likely to only be up there for 3-5 days so trying to allocate time as best possible.

Big unknown is the condition of the ceiling once popcorn is removed. I'm 7 months into rehabbing surgical repair of a horrific knee injury (it's going great BTW) but thinking back on the 6 or so ceilings I've hung/taped primed & painted over the decades, well, don't want to do that anymore. (Think I'll offer consulting but not labor on this one) Can always jump in if job looks reasonable and within my physical limitations. (retired and 65 years old, me thinks shingling, drywall, attics, crawlspaces and most concrete work are jobs one should avoid if possible and just pay for)

Anybody else with thoughts or experience please chime in. I think one of his issues might be the tight 2 week interval between removal and move in date.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Can you cover it with a layer of 1/4" drywall?

I did this in one of my rooms without removing the popcorn.

 

[Packard]

OK, thanks, this is good input. I have not even seen the house, but I think they are wise to get it pulled down now before moving in as it's just not something to ever do while living there. I'm likely to only be up there for 3-5 days so trying to allocate time as best possible.

Big unknown is the condition of the ceiling once popcorn is removed. I'm 7 months into rehabbing surgical repair of a horrific knee injury (it's going great BTW) but thinking back on the 6 or so ceilings I've hung/taped primed & painted over the decades, well, don't want to do that anymore. (Think I'll offer consulting but not labor on this one) Can always jump in if job looks reasonable and within my physical limitations. (retired and 65 years old, me thinks shingling, drywall, attics, crawlspaces and most concrete work are jobs one should avoid if possible and just pay for)

Anybody else with thoughts or experience please chime in. I think one of his issues might be the tight 2 week interval between removal and move in date.

I installed vinyl soffit along a 120 foot run of my house that could be reached with an 8 foot ladder. I did this when I was 65 over a period of several days. I’m 77 now and each time I look up at it (it still looks good), I am amazed that I did that. (I did hire someone to do the back of the house which has a 35 foot height above the ground and would require some sort of scaffolding).

My avoidance of overhead work stems from the soffit installation.

 

[Redromad]

Following as I have a similar issue in my own home.

 

[Cheese]

...me thinks shingling, drywall, attics, crawlspaces and most concrete work are jobs one should avoid if possible and just pay for)

You've accurately identified all of the most odious tasks on the Hit Parade.

 

[thudchkr]

When I moved into my current house, i had several rooms where the drywall was sagging between the trusses. Ended up applying plywood to span the trusses and a new layer of drywall. To minimize the amount of taping/texturing, I installed cove molding against the new ceiling. Saved a lot of work and added a bit of class.