Replace guide rail splinter guard for different saw?

grbmds

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I exchanged my TS55REQ for a TS75. What would the recommended be . . .
  To replace the guide rail splinter guard with a new one and cut it with the new saw? OR
  Attempt to adjust the TS75 to cut with the old splinter guard (as described in a supplemental manual)?

I tend to think that replacing the splinter guard is safer and would give more peace of mind but . . . maybe the adjustment is easier than it at first seems.
 
grbmds said:
I exchanged my TS55REQ for a TS75. What would the recommended be . . .
   To replace the guide rail splinter guard with a new one and cut it with the new saw? OR
   Attempt to adjust the TS75 to cut with the old splinter guard (as described in a supplemental manual)?

I tend to think that replacing the splinter guard is safer and would give more peace of mind but . . . maybe the adjustment is easier than it at first seems.

I wouldn't get in involved with adjusting the saw unless you need to.

You can remove the existing splinter guard, move it out an 1/8" or so , and recut with the new saw.  A little heat from a hair dryer will help in removing the splinter guard.

Seth
 
First of all, since you cut your splinter guard to conform to the new TS55REQ which has been replaced by a brand-new TS75, there is a very good chance the factory setting will be so close to identical to be no never-mind.

All of my TS55 and TS75 are set to work correctly on all of my rails. Over the years I have worked closely with Festool to set my saws to factory spec. I received two TS55REQ, but only actually powered-up one of them. What I noticed was that as it arrived it fir all of my rails.

That TS55REQ worked correctly. All of the other 6 master cabinet makes working for me had the chance to use the new saw. We all liked it but none of us wanted to sell off my fleet of TS55. Both of my new TS55REQ have been returned to Festool with the option of repairing them and sending them back to me when that is possible.

If you follow the instructions in the manual and supplemental manual it is not difficult to adjust the toe-in. Sure, it is a lot easier with expert coaching from Steve Back, Brian Sedgeley or Allen Kensley. It also helps to have the appropriate driver to fit the screws and a selection of feeler gauges.
 
SRSemenza said:
I wouldn't get in involved with adjusting the saw unless you need to.

You can remove the existing splinter guard, move it out an 1/8" or so , and recut with the new saw.  A little heat from a hair dryer will help in removing the splinter guard.

Seth

I tested the cut and found that the TS75 cut may, in fact, be right on when compared to the TS55REQ. I will do some additional cuts over the next couple of days. I will take the advice not to adjust the saw as that seems a bit risky since it seems to be set exactly as it should be from the factory. I am unsure about removing the strip and moving it over 1/8" and am concerned about the stickiness the second time. Plus, it sits against a slight lip on the rail, doesn't it, to avoid the possibility of it ever moving I would think. It seems more likely that, over time, the strip would move, even if slightly, without that lip to ensure it is in place. But I will experiment a little more.  Other than the weight of the Ts75 I actually think I like it better than the other.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Good thoughts. I decided to compromise (sort of like me) and replace the splinter guard on the rail with my MFT3 table because that will give me peace of mind. After all, I bought Festool to accurate. On the 55" rail I will keep testing it out and see if I can't reset the splinter guard and recut it. The cut is very, very close to that of the TS55REQ and might not be worth the replacement on that rail. I just want the most accuracy on work I do on the table anyway. I bought 75" rail also. It would be nice if Festool made some accommodation on the rails, but it seems understandable they didn't since all rails work with all saws.
 
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