I can only tell you how I deal with repeatability.
Either I make all the identical cuts at one time, or I make a note of the precise measurement on my fence’s scale, or I make a stop block.
A stop block is as accurate as you will get on a table saw. Cut a scrap of stock with your initial setup. Then use that scrap to set the fence. Put one edge of the stock against the blade and the other end against the fence. Adjust the fence to a “touch-fit”. But I would note that when I clamp my fence tight, it tends to move the fence slightly closer to the blade. So setting that distance may take a couple of trials.
Write a description of the cut on the stop block so that you know what cut it is for. My stop blocks are generally project-specific and are disposed of after the project is complete. But if you are going to make the same items several times, then retain the stop blocks. As long as they are clearly identified they will be useful later on.
You can probably cut to +/- 0.003” or so with the stop blocks. But note, that only is a measurement of the blade’s distance from the fence. Other factors are involved in making accurate cuts.
Even tighter measurements can be had with good technique and all the cuts being made at the same time.
Does Rip-it list the tolerances for their fence?
I doubt my saw is tuned to allow the tolerances I called out. The blade has to be exactly parallel to the fence and exactly perpendicular to the the table. The shaft has to run true. I have a contractors’ saw. I don’t think it is built substantially enough to hold machine shop tolerances.
But more important, what tolerances do you need for the work you do or plan on doing?
The Rip-it does look cool though. I would not be a customer for this however.
It does not look like the fence can be moved fore and aft. That would be a disqualifying factor for me.
