Ripping 2x4's?

[mntbighker]

Any suggestions for ripping 2x4's in half? I need a bunch of 8 and 10 foot 2x2 ACQ and all I can buy it seems is 2x4's. I was fairly successful with my TS55 and ripping 2x6 ACQ already but 2x4's are pretty narrow. I think I have enough guide rail to get 10 feet but clamping will be the problem. I didn't clamp the 2x6's.

 

[JJ Wavra]

I don't know cost but why not rip 2by2s out of a 2by12.  It would have the extra width and usually 2by12s are less warped and have fewer knots.

The way I would rip 2by4s is lay a few next to each and then clamp it should help with support.

hope that helps.

JJ

 

[mntbighker]

I don't know cost but why not rip 2by2s out of a 2by12.  It would have the extra width and usually 2by12s are less warped and have fewer knots.

The way I would rip 2by4s is lay a few next to each and then clamp it should help with support.

hope that helps.

JJ

Thanks, I should have thought to buy 2x12 or 2x10. One disadvantage to the 2x12 is you get less actual "treated" surface by the end as opposed to 2x4. Actually for this I could even temp screw some bits together if need be. Cosmetic is zero importance. I'm re-framing my termite eaten yard shed and recycling the aluminum cladding.

 

[Eli]

Keep taking the one you cut off and stacking it under the back side of the rail. Keep the stack pretty tight. You can go on like that pretty much forever. Don't clamp, but be careful and make sure your cut table is big enough to support everything.

 

[Per Swenson]

What Eli said,

Using this method we no longer have the need for a Jobsite table saw.

In retrospect, its a wonder after years of jobsite table saw use, I can still  type.

Per

 

[Tinker]

I do as Eli suggests, only i have a 2x8 that i keep to set the narrow stuff on top of and clamp to that. 

I put two (or more) 55" rails together to get longer straight edges
Tinker

 

[Frank Pellow]

I do much as the above respondents have suggested.

Most of this kind of operation is done at my remote island -Pellow?s Camp.  At that site I keep an old sacrificial 16 foot 2x12 and I place it on sawhorses to do the cutting. 

As many as four 1400mm rails have been utilized and I have rarely found the need to clamp them.

The saw I prefer for this is the TS-75 with the so called ?standard? 18 tooth blade (see: http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=493197&ID=3)

 

[Michael Kellough]

One disadvantage to the 2x12 is you get less actual "treated" surface by the end as opposed to 2x4. Actually for this I could even temp screw some bits together if need be. Cosmetic is zero importance. I'm re-framing my termite eaten yard shed and recycling the aluminum cladding.

That's why I was wondering about the advisability of this effort. Once you expose the middle of a treated board you are exposing untreated wood aren't you?

Frank's 2x12 on horses is a good platform for ripping 2x stock. Get the parallel guide  and you don't need to use guide rails. Ripping construction grade stock with a straight guide rail will yield uneven width stuff anyway. The parallel guide will follow a bowed edge so the stock width is consistent.

On the 2x12 secure a cleat across the plank towards the far end to stop the stock from sliding forward. Place another fairly flat piece of stock alongside the one you're ripping to support the saw base. You probably need to secure the backup board so you can apply pressure towards it via the parallel guide.

 

[woodshopdemos]

As much as I like the guide rail, for this task, I would pop on the parallel guide...set it for 2 or 1.75 of whatever and rip.
The shot was taken yesterday. Had a need for cutting 1/4" strips. Talk about fingers Per...no kickback here...just good strips.

 

[mntbighker]

One disadvantage to the 2x12 is you get less actual "treated" surface by the end as opposed to 2x4. Actually for this I could even temp screw some bits together if need be. Cosmetic is zero importance. I'm re-framing my termite eaten yard shed and recycling the aluminum cladding.

That's why I was wondering about the advisability of this effort. Once you expose the middle of a treated board you are exposing untreated wood aren't you?

Yes, but what are my alternatives? I can't find 2x2 ACQ and actually the stuff I'm replacing is smaller than that anyway. I'll just have to surface treat the cut edges.

 

[Per Swenson]

No. No retreating.

ACQ  (alkaline copper quaternary) is just like regular PT lumber.

Pressure treated means just that.

40lbs per square inch...all the way through.

They don't dip it.

Per

 

[Frank-Jan]

I would go with the parallel guide Michael and John suggested. (Altough the ts 55 wouldn't be my first choice to do  this kind of job, I would go with a more powerful regular circular saw or my table saw; but with the right blade and if you take it slow it'll do the job). 

BTW I got the parallel guide a while back, I had a need for it a few times in the past, but they didn't have it in stock, so I ordered it, haven't used it yet but I like the way it stores in the systainer, and you don't need to take it out to reach the saw.

 

[UCLA Fan]

Hi all,

Just a few comments on pressure treated lumber. Out here in Calif our PT is douglas fir and does not accept the ACQ very well. To compensate the wood is "incised" to help the ACQ penetrate a tad deeper (still only gets about 1/4 inch or so deep). Cutting an edge in Calif PT lumber and not retreating the wood is like leaving a hole in your rain boots - ALL WET. Each and every side of subsurface wood must be treated or will rot quickly. Therefore PT fir should be retreated at any and all points of cut. I have found soaking the lumber over night can work well. Dig a trough and line it with plastic sheeting. If you only need to treat a few boards get some long plumbing PVC type pipe, fill with boards and "copper green" and let it soak. If you don't have time for a full soak then even a quick spray with a garden sprayer will help ALOT!

Hate to see you have to repeat all that work too soon, a little bit of extra prep will last years longer

Frank

 

[Eli]

Thanks for that Frank. I overlooked that part. I've used a piece of pvc gutter (with two end caps glued on) to soak it in 'green death' too.

Speaking of durable lumber, I got a piece of Yellow Box from my timber guy yesterday. Heavier than steel. Must be like an F32. Can't hammer a nail into it. A screw will shear if you can even get it to turn via driver (even predrilled!). Wears blades and bits fast. Yellow Box is going to be the reason I buy second sets of blades I bet. They use it for fence posts here, and the farmers just bury it in the ground. Forever.