ripping edge banding

[mrFinpgh]

I've been searching the threads on thin rips with the ts55, but I think I'm still not getting something. 

So I'm trying to do some solid 1/4" thick edge banding in oak for a medicine cabinet I'm making.  I'm using the precision dogs parallel guides, and I'm placing a piece of stock equal in thickness under the track to support it.  I do not have an MFT.  I do all my tracksaw cutting on a big cutting table with a sheet of insulating foam under the board.  I'm using a rip cut blade.  I also do not have a tablesaw - neither the space or dust collection to accommodate that!

What I'm experiencing is that there is some movement in my setup.  I'm not sure whether it is the track or the piece being cut.    What happens is that the cut starts off well enough, but about 4 feet or so in, I'm down to about a 1/16th inch wide strip of wood.  Not so great, although now I have some nice oak wedges for something. 

I can do the cut successfully if I hold the piece being cut with one hand and cut with the other.  This involves some maneuvering and feels inherently unsafe and unreliable.  It also only works while the piece is wide.  As it gets smaller, it becomes more risky and less stable to hold the piece in place.

So I'm trying to figure out what my best strategy is to get the board and the track to stay in place on these thin rips.  At 1/4" of stock under the track, it seems like there's really nothing holding the material in place.  Any ideas?

Thanks,
Adam

 

[peter halle]

Do it the opposite way.  have the majority of the board under the rail and then cut off the strip to be used as edge banding.  You will need to set your rail approximately 1/8" more away from the edge than the thickness of the piece.  So if you want 1/4" it should be approximately 3/8".  Once you get to the point where the rail won't rest completely on the mother piece then use an additional scrap.

Hope this is understandable.

Peter

 

[ear3]

+1 -- and you don't necessarily need the parallel guides either for this setup.  I usually just mark the desired width of the edge banding +1/8th then use razor blades in those marks against which the splinter guard can rest.  For these sorts of situations, and especially when the workpiece starts to get too narrow, I also shoot a couple of pins in either end to keep the board anchored to the cutting surface.  I usually anchor the scrap piece as well that is providing extra support for the rail.

EDIT: [member=1674]Peter Halle[/member] What's up with the "Redux" after the FOG in your avatar?

Do it the opposite way.  have the majority of the board under the rail and then cut off the strip to be used as edge banding.  You will need to set your rail approximately 1/8" more away from the edge than the thickness of the piece.  So if you want 1/4" it should be approximately 3/8".  Once you get to the point where the rail won't rest completely on the mother piece then use an additional scrap.

Hope this is understandable.

Peter

 

[peter halle]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]  - You are the second person who has asked me that question.  I have always tried to use the avatars for subtle messages.  I will answer your question in a separate post a bit later.

Peter

 

[chrisrosenb]

The way I do it, is if I want 1/4" banding on shelves. I cut the banding 5/8" thick, glue the banding between 2 shelves & then rip the shelves to final width.

 

[sancho57]

Try using these clamps. They should stop the rail from moving during the cut
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/fs-rapid-quick-action-clamps/p/489790/

 

[Michael1960]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]  - You are the second person who has asked me that question.  I have always tried to use the avatars for subtle messages.  I will answer your question in a separate post a bit later.

Peter

Peter - I look forward to hearing more about 'Redux the FOG'. You caught my attention and I looked up the definition of redux!  I have learnt a new word and agree with your new subtle Avatar!  Keep up the good work.

 

[Kev]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]  - You are the second person who has asked me that question.  I have always tried to use the avatars for subtle messages.  I will answer your question in a separate post a bit later.

Peter

Peter - I look forward to hearing more about 'Redux the FOG'. You caught my attention and I looked up the definition of redux!  I have learnt a new word and agree with your new subtle Avatar!  Keep up the good work.

[member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member] and here I was thinking the FOG was going to get a new hot water system [wink] [big grin]

 

[mrFinpgh]

Thanks, everybody.  Lots of interesting ideas to consider.

-Adam

 

[JimD]

I agree about putting the bigger piece of wood under the track and clamping the track when possible.  I have a different way of setting the track, however.  I use my track setting jig for work ahead of the track.  The jig has a dado to fit over the rib of the track and a stop to go against the board being cut.  The scale is adjusted to account for the width of the blade.  So I can set the width at 1/4 inch and then use it to repeatedly clamp the track at this width.  Works well.  I am responding from a tablet without my pictures but if you search my previous posts I have posted pictures several times.