So I've been making longer items like tables and I am having a hard time with the TS saw. I want to identify the problem. For example, I am ripping 7-9' boards to glue them up to make a table top. I am placing the boards on an MFT/3 and connecting two rails (1800 + 1080), using clamps and I just can't get perfect rips for glue up. Is it the fact that the boards aren't fully supported? Would a second MFT solve my problem or would a one piece 118" rail make short work of having a perfect line? Can you get a perfect edge with two rails?
Ripping large boards with the TS75 and two rails
- Thread starter ceddy
- Start date
Carl Prentiss
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 365
I would first check that the connected rails form a straight line. After that try to watch, as you're cutting that you don't apply lateral force on the saw as you're making the cut.
-Charlie
-Charlie
Sparktrician
Member
How are you connecting the rails to each other, and how are you ensuring that they remain in line with each other?
sessler2013
Member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2013
- Messages
- 114
Make sure you have a long perfectly flat surface to reference off of when you are joining the two guide rails and make sure to at least triple check the guide rails against the reference while tightening the set screws.
I use a 48" Stabila level while joining the rails and it certainly wouldn't hurt to have something longer...
I use a 48" Stabila level while joining the rails and it certainly wouldn't hurt to have something longer...
Birdhunter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2012
- Messages
- 4,145
I think this is why a big table saw with an excellent fence compliments the track saw.
Try it on the floor with some scrap between the material and the floor to avoid cutting the ground. Then stretch very tight a piece of string from one end of the board to the other, across the top of the board, about 1/8" from the back of the tracks. The gap between the string and the tracks should be a consistent 1/8" all the way across. If it is, then you should have a straight cut.
Sparktrician
Member
Texas357 said:
I used to use a level in the same manner until I got the Betterley Straightline Connector. It's every bit as accurate, if not more so.
sessler2013
Member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2013
- Messages
- 114
Sparktrician said:
That looks like it would be much better than a level, still my biggest problem connecting guide rails are the cheap slotted screws that strip every time you tighten them, Does anyone know what size screw it is ??? I would love to find some with an allan head on them...
I am only piping in on the screws - they are designed with slotted heads in an attempt to prevent users from over tightening and dimpling their rails. Perhaps other screws will give more pressure, but caution should still be exercised.
Peter
Peter
Jaybolishes
Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2012
- Messages
- 400
I have the 3000 rail, and even though it's perfectly straight, stresses in wood and even plywood can cause narrow strips to bow. I'm not sure at all that's what's going on here, but it happens. I had this happen most recently when ripping 4" x8' long strips of 3/4 maple ply on one strip last week. There was a significant bow over the 8' length, and if I had two connected rails I would have totally blamed it on my rail connection. It's rare in plywood for me, but I've noticed it more often in regular wood. It could still be the rails arnt connected straight, but it's good to know this is a possibility.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2007
- Messages
- 5,133
ceddy said:
If you have a dangling work piece, it's going to be difficult to get a straight rip.
Tom
NYC Tiny Shop
Member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2013
- Messages
- 929
Yes, when I first used the rails with the connecting rods, I had erroneously assumed that the connectors would make a straight line with both rails. That was a mistake. Before that, the guys are right...make sure your work is fully supported and level. When you cut, don't lean into the saw or pull on it. The Betterly style connectors do align the rails better than the Festool connecting rods, but you still need to check for plumb. For long cuts like yours, the 3000 rail is better.
You can use a table, if you have one, but make sure that you have a large enough outfeed table to make it safe, or a buddy to accept the outfeed. The guys on this thread, for the most part, have very reliable advice and are very generous. Keep asking questions...it helps all of us. I learn something from these guys, everyday.
You can use a table, if you have one, but make sure that you have a large enough outfeed table to make it safe, or a buddy to accept the outfeed. The guys on this thread, for the most part, have very reliable advice and are very generous. Keep asking questions...it helps all of us. I learn something from these guys, everyday.
As far as I can see Seth has the solution that I would choose. Both boards need to be held securely and cut in one pass. That means that they may need to be cut individually first to get the two edges that will butt within the kerf for the final (combined) jointing cut. I would certainly try and use one rail.SRSemenza said:
Peter