Ripping narrow stock on the TS75?

Jimxavier

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May 29, 2018
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I’d like to know if anyone has come up with a good method to consistently rip narrow stock on a TS75. One thing that’s certain is the TS75 cut quality for thick hardwood rips is the best I’ve ever seen.

I’ve only got space for a job site table saw and will go with the dewalt. I’ve got reservations on the cut quality of the dewalt compared to the TS75.

 
Jimxavier said:
I’d like to know if anyone has come up with a good method to consistently rip narrow stock on a TS75. One thing that’s certain is the TS75 cut quality for thick hardwood rips is the best I’ve ever seen.

I’ve only got space for a job site table saw and will go with the dewalt. I’ve got reservations on the cut quality of the dewalt compared to the TS75.

You may not like the price but the 75 upside down in a CMS is great.

Is this for sure work or shop?

Cheers. Bryan.

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Ts75 rips very clean on a cms. Only wish is for a zero clearance insert and the cs splinter guard.
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infer said:
Ts75 rips very clean on a cms. Only wish is for a zero clearance insert and the cs splinter guard.
View attachment 1

Nice setup!  ;^)

You can easily make a zero clearance for repetitive cuts. Take a price if ½ “ MDF and slide through to cover the knife and blade. Clamp it down and have at it!  I don’t do it that often, but will on occasion for certain projects.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
[member=68842]infer[/member] how did you attach the Incra LS to the CMS? It looks like a crown stop for a Kapex?
 
Yes a kapex crown stop.
 

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Just one hole to drill on the Kapex crown stop. I am waiting for a second crown stop to try and bridge the two and make the connection stiffer. It’s ok with only one but when you move the fence it lifts up if you put too much pressure. 5 seconds to remove and install.
 
[member=68842]infer[/member] - very nice

Quick question, all in all approximately how much space does your cms-ts75 setup take with all the supports attached?

 
Yes.  I repurpose the hexagonal spacers that come with the LR32 setup to set distance from the edge.  The setup also relies on having access to scrap and/or other pieces the same thickness for the rail to rest on.  And although not absolutely necessary, I find it also helps to pin nail (or 18 gauge) the ends of the board to prevent movement:

 
 

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“And although not absolutely necessary, I find it also helps to pin nail (or 18 gauge) the ends of the board to prevent movement:”

Good tip! I do that too when the pinner is out but usually just use tape to keep the working stock in place and keep the adjacent shim boards in place as well. I also put  tape across the work and shim. To keep stuff from moving laterally tape on the ends, neatly folded to the table, is much better than tape on the sides of the long sides of the stock, unless the stock is narrow and flexible.
 
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