Rotex 150 FEQ durability

[Empolvado]

Hi. I have a a outdoor deck sanding project which I just started. At the current speed it seems that it will take 30 - 40 hours of effective sanding time to finish. I don't (much) mind the monotony as it is a sort of zen-like process which gives me time to reflect the past, the current and the future.  [big grin]  But at the same time I am somewhat worried what will became of my Rotex 150 FEQ. Will it be up to the project? Or should I save my beloved Rotex for finer projects?

I also tried my old sander manufactured by a quality competitor. After an hour of constant use I sensed a very faint smell of electric smoke. On the other hand if the blue smoke manages to escape from the old sander, it won't be the end of the world. But it is also slower than Rotex.

So I suppose the question is: how many hours of sanding will a Rotex handle?

 

[semenza]

Hi. I have a a outdoor deck sanding project which I just started. At the current speed it seems that it will take 30 - 40 hours of effective sanding time to finish. I don't (much) mind the monotony as it is a sort of zen-like process which gives me time to reflect the past, the current and the future.  [big grin]  But at the same time I am somewhat worried what will became of my Rotex 150 FEQ. Will it be up to the project? Or should I save my beloved Rotex for finer projects?

I also tried my old sander manufactured by a quality competitor. After an hour of constant use I sensed a very faint smell of electric smoke. On the other hand if the blue smoke manages to escape from the old sander, it won't be the end of the world. But it is also slower than Rotex.

So I suppose the question is: how many hours of sanding will a Rotex handle?

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

  I can't imagine that it will be a problem. Many members of FOG have posted about extensive Rotex sanding projects. You might want to consider having an extra pad on hand. The hook and loop dose wear  after many hours and at some point will not hold the abrasive anymore.

Seth

 

[Birdhunter]

The people who refinish floors use a large sander. I think I'd swap a few dollars for my time and hire some pros to do the job.

 

[AlexThePalex]

You can use the Rotex without worries. It can go a long, long time.

You yourself will be exhausted before your Rotex is.

During development, they test these sanders by running them for days.

 

[Doug S]

I used mine to strip and sand a lot of large trusses in my house, it ran practically all day everyday for a few days (also got dropped from the scaffold a couple of times), never had a problem with it.

Doug

 

[Empolvado]

Ok. I suppose that I will let Rotex to show it's longevity. I already ordered the front handle to help holding Rotex for the next 10 - 20 evenings.

You might want to consider having an extra pad on hand. The hook and loop dose wear  after many hours and at some point will not hold the abrasive anymore.

Thanks for your concern. I use pad savers for just that purpose and they seem to do their job.

 

[Kev]

Start to worry after 100 decks ... its a workhorse, not a one trick pony [wink]

 

[ear3]

Welcome to the FOG. What Seth said. You can also experiment with the screw-in handle. I find it helps relieve fatigue better on long stretches of sanding than the front handle. Others may disagree, and in the end its more a matter of subjective taste, but for me the front handle works best when you are able to position your body directly over the work in a standing position -- and even then I don't find myself using it all that often.

 

[Empolvado]

Hi. Sixteen hours later the job (removing old oil finish from a 40 m2/430 sq.ft terrace) is done. The rate of progress more than doubled after I little by little learned the right moves, the correct speed setting and found a better sanding paper. My sander performed flawlessly and the dust was collected by a cyclone.

The trick was to point the handle and the dust collection port to 8 o'clock. Then you press the handle downwards and the sander tends to move towards you. But you push it away from you with the front handle and the sanding action is mainly on the left side of the pad. And vice versa when you rise the handle, the sander tries to move away from you, but you pull it towards yourself with the front handle sanding with the right side of the pad.

Also as the deck is made of 100 mm/4" boards it was best to keep the center of the pad above the gap between the boards. That way you avoid hitting the boards from the sides and damaging the sanding pad.

 

[SMJoinery]

Best sander ever...by miles!

 

[itchy]

I have found it to be very durable under similar circumstances.

 

[leakyroof]

Hi. Sixteen hours later the job (removing old oil finish from a 40 m2/430 sq.ft terrace) is done. The rate of progress more than doubled after I little by little learned the right moves, the correct speed setting and found a better sanding paper. My sander performed flawlessly and the dust was collected by a cyclone.

The trick was to point the handle and the dust collection port to 8 o'clock. Then you press the handle downwards and the sander tends to move towards you. But you push it away from you with the front handle and the sanding action is mainly on the left side of the pad. And vice versa when you rise the handle, the sander tries to move away from you, but you pull it towards yourself with the front handle sanding with the right side of the pad.

Also as the deck is made of 100 mm/4" boards it was best to keep the center of the pad above the gap between the boards. That way you avoid hitting the boards from the sides and damaging the sanding pad.

. What abrasive worked better for you once you switched?

 

[Straightlines]

The people who refinish floors use a large sander. I think I'd swap a few dollars for my time and hire some pros to do the job.

Yep, there comes a point when one needs to consider the value of one's time and the nature of the project.  An outdoor deck is not a piece of fine furniture, so 150-grit or 220-grit will be much more than adequate, and these are standard fare for a machine that is designed to prepare a flat, high-visibility surface for a high-gloss (i.e., flaw revealing) finish.  A DIY alternative here in the USA is to rent a "jitter-bug" floor sanding machine (w/ dust collection included) -- these measure something like 24" x 24" -- YES!! [thumbs up]  Rental rates are not bad (

 

[Empolvado]

What abrasive worked better for you once you switched?

Sorry I haven't been able to answer earlier due to my trip. But the abrasive I referred to is 40 grit Mirka Ultimax. The local dealer encouraged me to try it and said that it is used for example to sand sailboat decks.