Rotex vs ETS

[JulesM]

I do a lot of slab work.  My usual routine is to stabilize the slab (bowties, etc), epoxy fill, then sand.  Sanding starts with a belt sander and moves to the ETS-150-5 and then the 150-3.  Both are older models, maybe 8-10 years old.

I've watched a number of videos of slab work and I see a lot of them use the Rotex 150 and they seem to have great results. 

I have a Rotex 125 & a 90.  The 125 is far slower than the ETS-150.  I also have a ETS-125 and it's WAY slower than either of the 150s.

Both the Rotex 125 and the ETS 125 will almost stop spinning and go into vibration mode.  The 150s do not.

So my question is, would the Rotex 150 provide a similar productivity boost as I experienced when moving from the ETS-125 to the ETS-150?

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Rotex in ROS mode is pretty much the same as your 150/5 but harder to handle because it kinds needs two hands. That can be very tiring for finish sanding. It would be great for the initial cleanup, however. IMHO.

I have owned a Rotex 150 since the mid 2000s. When it's the right tool for the job it's the right tool. But 95%+ of the sanding I do is with the 150/3 and now includes a newer design 150/5 I scarfed used.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I'm having trouble understanding all this, the only difference so far as I'm aware between the ETS 125 and ETS 150 is the size of the pad, the function should be identical to both. If you were comparing ETS 150 to ETS EC 150 then yes you'll most definitely see a difference.

You say the Rotex stops spinning while working? Then there's something wrong there, if the gear driven mode is engaged it's extremely difficult to stop the pad from spinning. A Rotex in any size is a beast and will make short work of any sanding job, far mroe aggressively than an ETS. I had the very first model Rotex 150 and it was unbelievable, but sold it after getting the RO90 as I plan to get the new RO150.

Unless you were planning on having a single sander and already had a supply of 125mm discs, I actually don't see the point of the RO125 over the RO150. Especially as the extremely capable RO90 fills the smaller void. If you also have other ETS or ETS/EC sanders, then the RO125 makes even less sense in my opinion as the RO150 will remove far more material quicker than an RO125, which is kinda the point of it.

In short, myself, I would definitely go for the 150, but as mentioned, the 125 you have should provide an almost equal experience, just slower compared to the 150.

 

[JulesM]

When in RO mode, the Rotex 125 seems to favor a vibration mode.  Apply a little pressure and it almost stops spinning.  With the ETS 125, it acts more like a vibration sander than a RO sander.  To get it to spin, I almost have to pull it off the surface.  Not so with the ETS 150-5 or 150-3.  They work as a RO sander should.  The 90DX, in RO mode, acts more like the 150s. 

I bought both 125 sanders maybe 10 years ago and dealt with it.  But once I popped for the ETS 150, the 125s were hardly used.

The reason for looking into the Rotex 150 is the Makita 4x24 belt sander I've been using is a beast and I have to sand to 100 grit before switching to the 150-5, where I start with 80 grit, and it's still a lot of work sanding out the belt sander lines.  So I was wondering if the Rotex 150 might save me some steps.  Or maybe I just need to pick up some 6" 40 & 60 grit disks.

 

[Alanbach]

Have you tried cleaning up the belt sander tracks with the RO 125 in geared Rotex mode? If not, I would try that along with getting some 40 and 60 grit paper for the Rotex.

Also, my suggestion would be to try your Rotex 125 in geared mode in between the belt sander and the ETS 150/5. It has a 3.6 mm orbit so it won’t be quite as aggressive as the Rotex 150 (5mm orbit) but by using it in geared mode you should get a real good idea if this is a path that will work for you. In this scenario just don’t insert the Rotex into the mix in RO mode, use the geared mode only. Yes, I would get some 40 & 60 grit paper for the Rotex.

 

[Cheese]

You say the Rotex stops spinning while working? Then there's something wrong there, if the gear driven mode is engaged it's extremely difficult to stop the pad from spinning.

I'd state that a bit more succinctly...it's humanly impossible to stop the Rotex from rotating when in the gear driven mode...it's gear driven.

 

[bobtskutter]

Sounds like the OP is saying the Rotex stops spinning when it's in Random Orbit mode.  Isn't that how the machine works?  The pad does stop spinning when in RO mode AND PRESSED AGAINST THE WORK PIECE.  That's how my Rotex 125 works.

Regards
Bob

 

[Coen]

I'm having trouble understanding all this, the only difference so far as I'm aware between the ETS 125 and ETS 150 is the size of the pad,

Nooo. ETS 125 has a 2mm stroke, the ETS 150 comes in 3mm and 5mm ones. For the ETS EC 125 it is 3mm.

the function should be identical to both. If you were comparing ETS 150 to ETS EC 150 then yes you'll most definitely see a difference.

Huh nope. Both ETS and ETS EC in 150 variety are sold in 3mm and 5mm versions, all doing up to 10k rpm on the excenter.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=74814]JulesM[/member]
A few points of interest:

Since you have other sanders, I would suggest that you only use the Rotex in geared mode and not random orbit mode.

Skip the belt sander and start with the Rotex. IMHO DO NOT start with 40 grit paper. the scratches from 40 grit are almost as bad or worse than most of the stuff you will run into on the slab. Try out your RO125 first before you buy a RO150. Most of the time 80 grit will be a good starting place. If you have areas of bad tear out try 60

If you are trying to use the handheld sanders to make the slab flat, one word DON'T. It's an exercise in futility even if you are only doing a few.  You need another method to flatten. Router sled or big timesaver sander or someone with a CNC. My sawyer has a big Woodmizer slab flattener and for big stuff the prices are quite reasonable

In reality there is nothing wrong with the equipment you already have. The ETS 150 is an excellent sander.

So basically, start with the slab flat by some method other than sanders.

Only use the Rotex sanders in geared mode not random orbit mode. Try the RO125 to see if it fits in your work flow. A Rotex in geared mode can be a wild beast.

switch to your ETS150 after you get through a couple of lower grits on the Rotex.

I work with smaller pieces of slabs all the time just not the whole thing all at once. I have a 16 inch jointer and a 20 inch planer and after it comes out of the planer 95% of the time I start with 80 grit in an ETS EC 150. if I manage to pull off some deeper tear out, I'll break out a geared mode sander to get rid of it and then switch to an ETS EC

I find the RO90 to be an excellent sander for shaping and working with live edges.

Ron

 

[JulesM]

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]

I start the process with a router sled I built, based on Nick Offerman's earlier design.  You'd think the marks left behind from the router wouldn't be that hard to sand away but it's always a chore.  But on the next slab, I'll give the RO125 a shot and see how that goes. 

Thanks to all who replied.

Julie

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I agree with Ron. I always use my RO sanders in Rotex mode. I guess it's ok that you can switch it off, but I don't see it as a requirement. If you could buy the exact same sander at a lower price by eliminating that feature, I would do that in a second.
I have the 125 version and it works perfectly for my needs. I do large objects, but generally don't need to do much more than blending with an RO. I have better access to 125mm sandpaper too, so it made perfect sense.
If you can physically stop a Rotex, there is something wrong with it.....or you [big grin]

I may disagree slightly on the 40 grit part though. I use it a lot, however that is not on solid wood that will receive any kind of finish. It would be for blending seams in sheet goods before laminating or veneering over it. It works best to cut that kind of thing down quickly, rather than "polishing the hump", which is what happens if you go at it to gently.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=74814]JulesM[/member] generally speaking most people run the router back and forth across the width of the slab. I found that method resulted in the most tear out.

Try going with the grain (end to end) and also try not reversing your feed direction. If you find that technique too burdensome then try to do a shallow skimming run with the grain to as a last finish cut. That may reduce some of the tear out you may be experiencing.

Ron