Router Guide Bushings on OF1010

Called Festool and they said I either have to machine the plate to allow it to be centered or ship everything in for service.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 
Inner10 said:
Called Festool and they said I either have to machine the plate to allow it to be centered or ship everything in for service.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Perhaps you could file a small amount off the plate as it's outer edge has no keying requirement with the router. Or, you could drill the countersink a little deeper or enlarge the screw hole by 1 mm in order to give a bit more wiggle room.

If you have the engineering capability you could drill new holes in the plate but that might be tricky.

Peter
 
Inner10 said:
I must be an idiot, I bought the Leigh insert, but when I center it the flat head screws that comes with the Festool router pull it off center when I tighten them.  I need some sort of small low profile pan head screw with a really narrow flat head to keep it centered.

I use the panhead screws that came with the Leigh 704R adapter and they work fine.  The screws that come with the Festool adapter are flat-headed and have conical seats, and WILL make the 704R misalign. 
 
Peter Parfitt said:
Inner10 said:
Called Festool and they said I either have to machine the plate to allow it to be centered or ship everything in for service.

Perhaps you could file a small amount off the plate as it's outer edge has no keying requirement with the router. Or, you could drill the countersink a little deeper or enlarge the screw hole by 1 mm in order to give a bit more wiggle room.

If you have the engineering capability you could drill new holes in the plate but that might be tricky.

Peter

This might be a good solution for the Festool adapter ring, since it sits too tight within the router base to allow for any adjustment for centering. The Festool adapter ring (at least the one I have on my old OF1010) has two (2) sets of mounting screw holes -- one set of holes is countersunk, while the other set of holes has been counterbored (flat bottomed) -- so, you would need some pan-headed mounting screws in the counterbored holes  in order to center the adapter ring.

Wouldn't/Shouldn't this work?
 
Sparktrician said:
Inner10 said:
I must be an idiot, I bought the Leigh insert, but when I center it the flat head screws that comes with the Festool router pull it off center when I tighten them.  I need some sort of small low profile pan head screw with a really narrow flat head to keep it centered.

I use the panhead screws that came with the Leigh 704R adapter and they work fine.  The screws that come with the Festool adapter are flat-headed and have conical seats, and WILL make the 704R misalign.

Mine didn't come with screws....
 
Corwin said:
Peter Parfitt said:
Inner10 said:
Called Festool and they said I either have to machine the plate to allow it to be centered or ship everything in for service.

Perhaps you could file a small amount off the plate as it's outer edge has no keying requirement with the router. Or, you could drill the countersink a little deeper or enlarge the screw hole by 1 mm in order to give a bit more wiggle room.

If you have the engineering capability you could drill new holes in the plate but that might be tricky.

Peter

This might be a good solution for the Festool adapter ring, since it sits too tight within the router base to allow for any adjustment for centering. The Festool adapter ring (at least the one I have on my old OF1010) has two (2) sets of mounting screw holes -- one set of holes is countersunk, while the other set of holes has been counterbored (flat bottomed) -- so, you would need some pan-headed mounting screws in the counterbored holes  in order to center the adapter ring.

Wouldn't/Shouldn't this work?

I altered it a little with a needle file.

This all seems like too much effort and aftermarket parts just to center a damn bushing.  Festool's answer was really disappointing "Yeah there is no way to center the adapter ring without modifying the plate"  Thanks, I'm glad I bought this crooked-ass 600 dollar router.
 
In my Workshop Notes video it should be clear that the Leigh Guide bush plate (704R) has room for adjustment and that is easy to do. The Festool copying rings are the same fit and Festool sell the centring mandrel for this task. Perhaps the guy at Festool (Canada I assume) got it wrong.

Peter
 
Maybe I'm not understanding the problem correctly, however the Lee Valley 704R adapter has counterbored mounting holes so it needs to use pan head screws for it to work correctly.

In a similar fashion, the Festool 1010 copy rings/templates also have counterbored mounting holes so they also need pan head screws for proper adjustment.

 
Inner10 said:
I altered it a little with a needle file.

This all seems like too much effort and aftermarket parts just to center a darn bushing.  Festool's answer was really disappointing "Yeah there is no way to center the adapter ring without modifying the plate"  Thanks, I'm glad I bought this crooked- 600 dollar router.

So, did you alter it enough to properly center the adapter ring? And, isn't the only additional items you need to purchase is the Festool centering mandrel and a couple of pan-head screws?
 
Peter Parfitt said:
In my Workshop Notes video it should be clear that the Leigh Guide bush plate (704R) has room for adjustment and that is easy to do. The Festool copying rings are the same fit and Festool sell the centring mandrel for this task. Perhaps the guy at Festool (Canada I assume) got it wrong.

Peter

I bought the Festool mandrel, I could really use a very low profile pan head screw to help mount the Leigh guide bushing adapter. 
 
Cheese said:
Maybe I'm not understanding the problem correctly, however the Lee Valley 704R adapter has counterbored mounting holes so it needs to use pan head screws for it to work correctly.

In a similar fashion, the Festool 1010 copy rings/templates also have counterbored mounting holes so they also need pan head screws for proper adjustment.

Correct, but an M4 panhead is as wide as the counter bore and it's also not bored deep enough...so I need a wafer thin M4 with a very narrow head.  I was thinking of grinding down a hex cap screw.
 
Corwin said:
Inner10 said:
I altered it a little with a needle file.

This all seems like too much effort and aftermarket parts just to center a darn bushing.  Festool's answer was really disappointing "Yeah there is no way to center the adapter ring without modifying the plate"  Thanks, I'm glad I bought this crooked- 600 dollar router.

So, did you alter it enough to properly center the adapter ring? And, isn't the only additional items you need to purchase is the Festool centering mandrel and a couple of pan-head screws?

If I could find pan head screws that would clear.
 
magellan said:
As someone stated for $450.00 you get an inferior guide bushing setup, a fence system that is an extra piece that you have to purchase and from most Owners is inadequate as a fence and dust collection.
The answer, as far as the guide bushing goes is surely to buy the GBs from Festool. They do work. Despite what you may think Porter-Cable guide bushings are not a universal standard and neither is the Imperial measurement system. I've always found that there were problems when you mix and match systems (in any area of endeavour) - so when I do I expect to have to spend time tuning and customising
 
Back
Top