Router JIG SETUP

Miter corners are used here. I've just never seen that jig. Like so many other things, it's NAINA.

Tom
 
There are some solid surface shop that use the same joinery.I'm sure it is done with CNC.
I have seen it many times.
Also,not quite the same exact,but solid wood stair threads have a miter cut similar to it.When it has a finish side.
 
windmill man said:
Hi Alex,
This jig is used for joining post form laminate kitchen worktops. most worktop ar of this type in the uk.

Regards John

Well!!!   MOST people havent got alot of money so can only afford Laminate worktops.  Laminate work tops are for people who still want a kitchen with a OAK  or GRANITE look but not pay them prices.  The down side to these work tops every cut needs to be laminated unless its between a wall or a joint then its hidden.  I personaly dont like the laminated ends it is the best way do finished them of though as some people get metal plates or plastic plates to cover the ends  and some really cheap people even get a joining plate so you dont need this festool jig then to cut the FEMALE and MALE cut instead you just put the work tops together with a metal insert which hides the joint but it is 5mm thick so sits proud so it looks RUBBISH! and Cheap and durt gets under it.  Good thin about them you can get them 5 meters long so no straight joints most time.  

Unless you got to Howdens which is a large kitchen retailer in the UK and cheap but still decent kitchens I like fitting them (B&Q and Wickes and other are rubbish to fit hate them)  well Howdens wont sell work tops larger than 3 metres long because of health and safety to heavy they say!!! Rubbish!!!
 
Tom Bellemare said:
Miter corners are used here. I've just never seen that jig. Like so many other things, it's NAINA.

Tom

Mitre Corners are more difficult if the walls aren't square.  Also you loose 1.2meters in length (if its a 600mm deep work top) instead of just loosing 600mm with this type of joint.  Also you hardly see the joint
 
jmbfestool said:
Tom Bellemare said:
Miter corners are used here. I've just never seen that jig. Like so many other things, it's NAINA.

Tom

Mitre Corners are more difficult if the walls aren't square.  Also you loose 1.2meters in length (if its a 600mm deep work top) instead of just loosing 600mm with this type of joint.  Also you hardly see the joint
Most post form top has an intergrated back splash.I have seen post form top with loose back splash.Does this jig works with both style post form top?

Come to think about it,It can't be done with the back splash.
 
No you cant use this type of joint  with a built on back splash  but here in the UK we either tile the wall or fit the back splash ( we call it a upstand) after we fitted the worktops so that we can get it to fit the wall easier. Having a built on back splash if the walls are not straight you will have difficulty scribing the worktop to to the wall. If installed after you can push the back spash(upstand) to fallow the wall. You can fix the upstand from underneath the work top so you wont see and fixings and glue to the wall.
 
jmbfestool said:
No you cant use this type of joint  with a built on back splash  but here in the UK we either tile the wall or fit the back splash ( we call it a upstand) after we fitted the worktops so that we can get it to fit the wall easier. Having a built on back splash if the walls are not straight you will have difficulty scribing the worktop to to the wall. If installed after you can push the back spash(upstand) to fallow the wall. You can fix the upstand from underneath the work top so you wont see and fixings and glue to the wall.
That's what i tought.Those worktop without the backsplash is somewhat new here.I have installed a few sets.But most postform top has the backsplash,so standard miter is the only way to go.The bad thing is that most job with postform top are budget job and nobody goes out to check squarness of the walls or makes template of the jobs.It is cut and most of the time put together at the shop.And of course it's up to the installer to deal with out of square walls!!!!
 
mastercabman said:
jmbfestool said:
No you cant use this type of joint  with a built on back splash  but here in the UK we either tile the wall or fit the back splash ( we call it a upstand) after we fitted the worktops so that we can get it to fit the wall easier. Having a built on back splash if the walls are not straight you will have difficulty scribing the worktop to to the wall. If installed after you can push the back spash(upstand) to fallow the wall. You can fix the upstand from underneath the work top so you wont see and fixings and glue to the wall.
That's what i tought.Those worktop without the backsplash is somewhat new here.I have installed a few sets.But most postform top has the backsplash,so standard miter is the only way to go.The bad thing is that most job with postform top are budget job and nobody goes out to check squarness of the walls or makes template of the jobs.It is cut and most of the time put together at the shop.And of course it's up to the installer to deal with out of square walls!!!!

Jezus! That seems pain in the BOTTOM!  I got 3 kitchen on at the moment working at night. So I can carry on working on my house during the day. all 3 kitchen they had laminate worktop but one is tilling the walls the other is having a upstand(splash back) which he still needs to get so maybe fit that sunday. The other on is once again tiled. Most people in the UK tile walls.  When I FINALY get my house to the stage where I can start to build and fit my own kitchen  im NOT having Laminate Worktop that rubbish chipboard stuff. Looking at a rustic looking solid wood worktop NICE!
 
jonny round boy said:
John,

You really need to write a full review of this - firstly, it'd be a great item to review as not a lot of people use it & it deserves to be far more popular than it is; and secondly for the contest. I've learned a lot about this jig just from the pictures alone.....

I'd like to see a review also even though this item is NAINA .
 
jmbfestool said:
Howdens wont sell work tops larger than 3 metres long because of health and safety too heavy they say

Also, all of the newer Howdens delivery trucks have a special 'underslung' storage bay, which hangs below the truck bed between the tractor wheels and the trailer wheels. They spent a fortune on these fancy trailers. Trouble is, the maximum length you can fit in them is..... you guessed it, 3m!

Howdens have looked at lightweight (hollowcore) worktops, but will still only do 3m lengths because of the trailers [doh]

You won't see 4m tops in Howdens any time soon...

Apologies for going off topic. [embarassed]
 
This is exactly the way it's done in the Netherlands. There is a small problem with this jig however: over here most postform worktops have a built-in waterwell, there's a small rise to the front of the worktop, used to prevent water to spill to the floor.
Probably we spill more water when doing the dishes....  [big grin] In the Netherlands, water is always near, and always abundant as well. A good deal of our country would actually be flooded if we didn't pump the water out.
So uncounsciously I guess we NEED that little dam at the front of our worktops... [embarassed]
It does, however, pose a problem as the workop isn't flat and one needs to either bottomfill the template or use CNC machinery to cut this joint.
Over here, there's plenty of postform worktops that have a very solid laminate surface, and a decent water-resistant plywood core. The chipboard cores are only used for budget worktops.

Regards,

Job
 
jonny round boy said:
jmbfestool said:
Howdens wont sell work tops larger than 3 metres long because of health and safety too heavy they say

Also, all of the newer Howdens delivery trucks have a special 'underslung' storage bay, which hangs below the truck bed between the tractor wheels and the trailer wheels. They spent a fortune on these fancy trailers. Trouble is, the maximum length you can fit in them is..... you guessed it, 3m!

Howdens have looked at lightweight (hollowcore) worktops, but will still only do 3m lengths because of the trailers [doh]

You won't see 4m tops in Howdens any time soon...

Apologies for going off topic. [embarassed]

STUPID HOWDENS!!!  I hate straight joining worktops just seems silly if it can be avoided especially when your about 100mm short which I ave come across.
 
Where possible I design the clients kitchen and advise them on the merits of one type of worktop over another including the fact that if they go for a cheaper make and it has to be joined in length there is an additional labour and materials fee for doing so!

I too dislike the tops available from the merchant mentioned, due to the laminate being too thin for the robust use it would get in my kitchen.
However, to be fair, I dislike all of them who sell prefab joinery and cabinetry.
I have several reasons!

Rob.
 
jvsteenb said:
This is exactly the way it's done in the Netherlands. There is a small problem with this jig however: over here most postform worktops have a built-in waterwell, there's a small rise to the front of the worktop, used to prevent water to spill to the floor.
Probably we spill more water when doing the dishes....  [big grin] In the Netherlands, water is always near, and always abundant as well. A good deal of our country would actually be flooded if we didn't pump the water out.
So uncounsciously I guess we NEED that little dam at the front of our worktops... [embarassed]
It does, however, pose a problem as the workop isn't flat and one needs to either bottomfill the template or use CNC machinery to cut this joint.
Over here, there's plenty of postform worktops that have a very solid laminate surface, and a decent water-resistant plywood core. The chipboard cores are only used for budget worktops.

Regards,

Job

Job, I have installed a similar type of top, I think it was of German origin( not certain though it was a few years back).

The rise at the front edge or 'dam' was about the height of the thickness of the laminate (1 to 1.5 mm) and at the underside point where the laminate terminated to meet the dense particle board, it was angled toward the surface. This was to form a drip trap so any spills, that got over the dam, could not track under and contact the substrate. Can not remember if the kitchen was in Greece or Germany but the old style jig from trend was used with the end trim laminate as a packer.

Is this the same type or description of the more common worktops you have?

Rob.
 
All the years i have been doing this job I dont think I have ever had to do a straight joint in a worktop. I wouldnt do it I would make them get 4m worktops [big grin] that would be decided in the planning stage.

As for Howdens and health and safety that has to be Bulls**t how do the people who sell 4m worktops get past it then? and what about granite fitters ?

Just a bunch of lazy bastards in Howdens most of the ones near me are anyway I might give Benchmarx a go when I do a cheapie kitchen next , if I do a decent kitchen I use Crown kitchens they are really good quality but not too expensive.
 
joiner1970 said:
All the years i have been doing this job I don't think I have ever had to do a straight joint in a worktop. I wouldn't do it I would make them get 4m worktops [big grin] that would be decided in the planning stage.

That was my point. However, I have worked on a subcontract run where there really was no arguing the point [sad], the main contractor was a complete twit, and I am being absurdly polite [wink]. I even saw a rush job where he got the roofers to fit the tops in a straight galley type kitchen.... using a chainsaw and burying the ends in the plasterboard/drywall to hide the mess! [eek]
Maybe JMB has the same problem?

N.B. I keep referring to jmbfestool as JMB as I don't know his christian name, I apologise if I am being rude.

Rob.
 
I have only ever had the misfortune to fit one of Howdens kitchens what a pile of poo the pull out larder would not stay closed because of the deflection in the base cauesd by the weight of the metal work. and when I mitred the worktop there was a void in the chipboard behind the laminate.
fit for the skip..........
 
jvsteenb said:
This is exactly the way it's done in the Netherlands. There is a small problem with this jig however: over here most postform worktops have a built-in waterwell, there's a small rise to the front of the worktop, used to prevent water to spill to the floor.
Probably we spill more water when doing the dishes....  [big grin] In the Netherlands, water is always near, and always abundant as well. A good deal of our country would actually be flooded if we didn't pump the water out.
So uncounsciously I guess we NEED that little dam at the front of our worktops... [embarassed]
It does, however, pose a problem as the workop isn't flat and one needs to either bottomfill the template or use CNC machinery to cut this joint.
Over here, there's plenty of postform worktops that have a very solid laminate surface, and a decent water-resistant plywood core. The chipboard cores are only used for budget worktops.

Regards,

Job

Yeah Holland do have a little upstand on the front edge I remember it now. I remember my parents Granite top had a edge on the front and the ends of the worktops  but it wasnt stuck on upstand it was cut like that so the granite must of been much thicker and a large amount been cut of to create a 5-10mm upstand on the front about 10mm thick or so.  I mite have photos of are kitchen I will have a look sometime I want to have a look at the good old times being 10 years old
 
Rob-GB said:
joiner1970 said:
All the years i have been doing this job I don't think I have ever had to do a straight joint in a worktop. I wouldn't do it I would make them get 4m worktops [big grin] that would be decided in the planning stage.

That was my point. However, I have worked on a subcontract run where there really was no arguing the point [sad], the main contractor was a complete twit, and I am being absurdly polite [wink]. I even saw a rush job where he got the roofers to fit the tops in a straight galley type kitchen.... using a chainsaw and burying the ends in the plasterboard/drywall to hide the mess! [eek]
Maybe JMB has the same problem?

N.B. I keep referring to jmbfestool as JMB as I don't know his christian name, I apologise if I am being rude.

Rob.

Its okay my name is James but people Call me Brett  but company name is JMB lol and I like Festool so I added festool which is obvious ofcorse.

Yeah same problem as you Rob!!! I get asked to do a kitchen I say nooooo problem they say they have all the kitchen already delivered  Howdens have measured and designed if for them. So what can I do?!?!?I have just come in to fit it so they have sorted it already. I try my best I do alter the kitchen as I build it if I find a design flaw I then discuss it with the client and they are happy with the alterations. Its normally always makes the job take longer for my self but I dont like walking away from a job if I wasnt happy with it. I do say to them you can get longer work tops and most the time they just look at me well whats the problem with a straight joint?!??! I just shut up then and carry on. I feel like im telling them their kitchen cheap rubbish by saying that and then they are thinkin how rude i am lol

Just like Rob said the main contractor doesnt care he just wants the job done and quickly they say just use what you got im not changing it. I say fair enough its your job and its a job for me so I cant complain!

When I have the kitchen job from scratch I make sure its designed with no straight joints but you dont always get the jobs like that do ya! Just like Rob said! Some people just arnt bothered!
 
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