Router planing sled

[Wuffles]

[member=20162]Wuffles[/member]

you can get some UHMW tape to stick to the rails. On mine I set the router on a piece of high density polyethylene (HDPE) and then polished and waxed the rail surface.

the tape is pricy. You could grab one of those cheap thin poly cutting boards from a shop and either stick it to the router base or drill and counter sink some screw holes to keep it on.

I've got some offcuts of the UHDMW stuff I could use, but was trying to gain a little more length from the router bit. The sled I use not is 18mm ply, so I've lost 18mm before I've even started.

I'll take a squizz on eBay and see what some slippy tape will set me back - will probably put it on the steel rather than the router so I can use a few different routers on it.

I sanded the iron flat and waxed it.

Or I could try that.

 

[Tayler_mann]

I see how this could work for smaller pieces but how is it for let's say a 600mm x 2000mm slab? I feel the tables inconsistencies would reflect upon the piece once you get larger. I am just curious as to how accurate his process is over a larger surface. Also, is there any reason you would do this over having someone send it through their wide belt/ larger planer other than money of course? I guess for me if I buy the wood they will do some slight thicknessing for free at the hardwood store. I look forward to be responses as this is an interesting process.

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]

 

[Sparktrician]

Here's my version of Nick Offerman's flattening sled.  I used phenolic-coated baltic birch for the sled to minimize debris obstructing the travel of the router.  Mine is built to accommodate the OF 2200, but it will also work with the OF 1400 just as well.  The main beams and glide rails are the straightest Douglas fir I could find.  The main beams are each made from three pieces of 2x4 stock, glued and screwed together.  Since these photos were taken, I've added a bunch of Kreg pocket hole plugs in black inside the sled to make cleaning easier.

 

[Mavrik]

Ironically this kind of approach is often taken because the piece is too big to go through a planer or sander.

 

[Wuffles]

I need to upgrade to something a little less doory.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Sparktrician]

Ironically this kind of approach is often taken because the piece is too big to go through a planer or sander.

It's also a good approach to removing warping and twisting from a slab which isn't practical in a planer without the use of some kind of sled.

 

[rvieceli]

Nice set up Willy.

 

[Sparktrician]

Nice set up Willy.

Thank you!  [smile]

 

[rvieceli]

[member=42383]Tayler_mann[/member]

My current set up can do slabs that are about 750 mm X 2400. I could reconfigure my sled and get about another 90mm wide.

The work surface is flat. the key is that the side rail/runners are straight and true. The top surface of the rail has to be the same distance away from the work surface to get a flat surface on the piece. I don't have access to a large stationary sander.

My process is to find the flattest side of the slab and lay that side on the table. If it twists, then it needs to be shimmed so that the piece doesn't rock on the table. then it needs to be secured so it doesn't move when being planed. Mostly I'll screw wooden stops to the table so it doesn't move around.

Then have at it with the router on the sled. I will usually take lighter passes which makes for more work but I think the results are better.

Once you are finished, you now have one surface that is flat. If the slab is narrower than my planer (about 12 inches) I might just run it through the planer. Otherwise it gets flipped over so the flat side is on the table, secured so it doesn't slide and then repeat the router process.

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=42383]Tayler_mann[/member]
My process is to find the flattest side of the slab and lay that side on the table. If it twists, then it needs to be shimmed so that the piece doesn't rock on the table. then it needs to be secured so it doesn't move when being planed. Mostly I'll screw wooden stops to the table so it doesn't move around.

I sometimes hot-glue shims to the main beams, then hot-glue stops to keep things from shifting.  No screw holes when I'm done, and the hot glue lifts right off.  I also line up the slab for the first side cut to minimize the amount of material that needs to be removed overall.  The bottom line is that I get a straight and flat slab when I'm done. 

 

[Cheese]

Here's my version of Nick Offerman's flattening sled.  I used phenolic-coated baltic birch for the sled to minimize debris obstructing the travel of the router.  Mine is built to accommodate the OF 2200, but it will also work with the OF 1400 just as well.  The main beams and glide rails are the straightest Douglas fir I could find.  The main beams are each made from three pieces of 2x4 stock, glued and screwed together. 

I like it...I especially like the use of phenolic for the base, the router must just glide over the phenolic surface.

Are there any hold downs for the router sled on the side rails, or is the weight of the router and sled enough to keep it in-place on the side rails?

 

[Sparktrician]

Here's my version of Nick Offerman's flattening sled.  I used phenolic-coated baltic birch for the sled to minimize debris obstructing the travel of the router.  Mine is built to accommodate the OF 2200, but it will also work with the OF 1400 just as well.  The main beams and glide rails are the straightest Douglas fir I could find.  The main beams are each made from three pieces of 2x4 stock, glued and screwed together. 

I like it...I especially like the use of phenolic for the base, the router must just glide over the phenolic surface.

Are there any hold downs for the router sled on the side rails, or is the weight of the router and sled enough to keep it in-place on the side rails?

Thanks.  That 18# OF 2200 glides inside the slide like it was on wet ice.  The slide weighs another 10# or so, and I've found no need to hold it down.  It has to slide on the glide rails, so that pretty much precludes clamping. 

 

[Mavrik]

It's the magic warp-or-twist cure.
I take very little with each pass.
Use my most powerful router.
And use the lowest speed setting .

Not really sure why i use the slowest speed.
Makes it quieter, works fine and seems less violent and more controlled.

 

[Sparktrician]

It's the magic warp-or-twist cure.
I take very little with each pass.
Use my most powerful router.
And use the lowest speed setting .

Not really sure why i use the slowest speed.
Makes it quieter, works fine and seems less violent and more controlled.

I use pretty much the same process.  I use a 1-3/4" Amana 45453 bit which, ironically, specifies a max shaft speed of 27,500 RPM.  Given the spinning mass involved, I won't take it over 16,000 RPM for safety reasons. 

 

[Cheese]

Then have at it with the router on the sled. I will usually take lighter passes which makes for more work but I think the results are better.

Once you are finished, you now have one surface that is flat. If the slab is narrower than my planer (about 12 inches) I might just run it through the planer. Otherwise it gets flipped over so the flat side is on the table, secured so it doesn't slide and then repeat the router process.

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]  or anyone else...
I've milled a number of PTFE (Teflon) flats for proper thickness and realized early on that if I removed 1/8" off of one side of the PTFE, I'd also need to remove 1/8" off of the other side or the thing would "potato chip" on me.

Is this also the case when flattening wood slabs?

 

[Wuffles]

Then have at it with the router on the sled. I will usually take lighter passes which makes for more work but I think the results are better.

Once you are finished, you now have one surface that is flat. If the slab is narrower than my planer (about 12 inches) I might just run it through the planer. Otherwise it gets flipped over so the flat side is on the table, secured so it doesn't slide and then repeat the router process.

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]  or anyone else...
I've milled a number of PTFE (Teflon) flats for proper thickness and realized early on that if I removed 1/8" off of one side of the PTFE, I'd also need to remove 1/8" off of the other side or the thing would "potato chip" on me.

Is this also the case when flattening wood slabs?

Interesting what other people say about this, but from my experience I am only taking off enough to get both sides flat and it's not happened to me. Mine are well seasoned though.

Nothing calculated about what I'm removing from each side if you catch my drift.

 

[Holmz]

Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

 

[Cheese]

Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Yea [member=40772]Holmz[/member]
I get that... my question really is, PTFE is a compression molded product and because there are internal stresses in molded products (whether injection molded, rotational molded or compression molded) do the internal stresses inherent in molded products equate to the same stresses inherent in natural materials such as wood? I think there may be a correlation between them. Not because they are related materials, but maybe because there is a "grain pattern" in all of the materials mentioned,

So, as a newbee to the woodworking field, my question still stands...is it necessary to remove the same amount of material from each side of the slab to retain a stable and flat slab or can one remove 1/4" from one side and 1/16" from the other side and achieve equilibrium?

Ya and I do like the Pringles anecdote...kind of reminds me of some of the humour of [member=20162]Wuffles[/member]

 

[Wuffles]

Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Yea [member=40772]Holmz[/member]
I get that... my question really is, PTFE is a compression molded product and because there are internal stresses in molded products (whether injection molded, rotational molded or compression molded) do the internal stresses inherent in molded products equate to the same stresses inherent in natural materials such as wood? I think there may be a correlation between them. Not because they are related materials, but maybe because there is a "grain pattern" in all of the materials mentioned,

So, as a newbee to the woodworking field, my question still stands...is it necessary to remove the same amount of material from each side of the slab to retain a stable and flat slab or can one remove 1/4" from one side and 1/16" from the other side and achieve equilibrium?

Ya and I do like the Pringles anecdote...kind of reminds me of some of the humour of [member=20162]Wuffles[/member]

Also from experience, now I come to think of it, you're kind of dealing with the fall-out of something that has already twisted, cupped, pringled. That's the point of the sled - to me anyway. I'm normally taking off the smashed edges of a pringle from the bottom of the tube to make it nicer - in wood terms.

For the record, I do not buy Pringles. I buy Aldi's own brand - similar packaging, well over half the price and the BBQ flavour are to die for, well they are if you steal them from my cupboard. In wood terms, they are probably Bosch.

 

[Holmz]

Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Yea [member=40772]Holmz[/member]
I get that... my question really is, PTFE is a compression molded product and because there are internal stresses in molded products (whether injection molded, rotational molded or compression molded) do the internal stresses inherent in molded products equate to the same stresses inherent in natural materials such as wood? I think there may be a correlation between them. Not because they are related materials, but maybe because there is a "grain pattern" in all of the materials mentioned,

So, as a newbee to the woodworking field, my question still stands...is it necessary to remove the same amount of material from each side of the slab to retain a stable and flat slab or can one remove 1/4" from one side and 1/16" from the other side and achieve equilibrium?

Ya and I do like the Pringles anecdote...kind of reminds me of some of the humour of [member=20162]Wuffles[/member]

Extrusion are generally under compression.
I do not know of a pull-trusion, but I think I have heard the word and they would likely be under tension.
Glass and metal can be annealed and stress relieved.

Wood can be either, and wood can also be both in the same piece in different places.

I doubt that the surface of the wood has different stress than the core, so I doubt it needs to be even.
and the movement from moisture is probably a different mechanism.
But "I dunno" ???