Router sled for planing wide boards

fignewton

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Jan 5, 2016
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Building a desk top and table top for my sister's store using ash.  Got some beautifully figured boards, but of course they're too wide for my 5 1/2 inch jointer.  So, after researching U-Tube, decided to build a sled for the OF1400.  I already had the Infinity Mega Dado and Planer bit Infinity dado planer router bit which is fantastic.  Checked my 4x8 assembly table-- dead flat.  Used a piece of 13-ply birch ply, also flat, for the base, and some other ply for the sides and ends.  Made it oversize in case I want to use another router with it, then laid a strip on the inside to locate the OF1400 perfectly.  Several coats of wax on the base so the router slides easily.  Had to notch one end so that the front handle of the router can protrude beyond the sled.  Placing the sled on a sacrificial backer, I cut the groove with multiple small passes of the router bit so it's exact size.  One pic below shows the setup as configured. Joined and planed some 8 ft fir 2x4s I had for legs for the sled to run on down the length of the board.  After shimming my boards so they were stable, went to work with light passes starting at the lowest corner.  This worked pretty darn well, and then I was able to run them through my DW735 planer to get the tops flat, then flipped them on multiple passes to dimension to same size.  Will use the TS55 and table saw to get them ready for glue-up, and then domino them too.
 

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Thanks for sharing your setup.  Looks like a really good way to go.  I've been thinking about that Mega planing bit... I should probably just order it.  How does the 1400 handle it?  I'm guessing you take really light passes?

I also saw that MFS-FS, but I'm wondering why you couldn't just use the MFS with a bushing plate.  I suppose I'll have to give it a try that way since I have the Woodpeckers version of the MFS.

I have a 8' slab of purty maple that needs some serious flattening.  It's 20" or more wide so way too big for my lunch box planer.
 
no problems at all wu=ith the 1400,  I prob took between 1/16 to 1/8 off each pass.  The bit cuts so clean!  it’s great for making rabbets too.
 

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jarbroen said:
I also saw that MFS-FS, but I'm wondering why you couldn't just use the MFS with a bushing plate.  I suppose I'll have to give it a try that way since I have the Woodpeckers version of the MFS.
You can, the MFS-FS is needed in case you use the MFS to make a wider area recess (keeps the OF at the same height over the whole process while the MFS stays in place to set the dimensions) and helpful when making a cutout while being unable to support the center waste piece (as it prevents the OF from tipping when that part drops at the end, the plastic support that goes into the copy ring can't help you with this).

As I have this kind of applications the extra use as a planing sled came as a bonus.

rst said:
I used 8020 15 series extrusions for the side rails to make my jointing sled.
Nice solution with the POM gliders.
 
When I made my jig I did not have the FS sled, so I set the MFS for the guide to slide through, have since bought the FS but have not used it or adapted it for use with the 8020.  One thing lacking in the FS is some sort of stop but I have Magswitch 400 and 600s that I use on my tablesaw that will work for limiting the cross cut of the router.
 
Nice work and lovely wood [member=59909]fignewton[/member]

I did something similar to flatten a small part of the underside of a rustic Gothic bench. I only needed a flat area on the underside for the legs and the cross brace.

I produced a 3 part series about the bench construction but the part that I am referring to is from 5 minutes 30 seconds in this video:


Peter
 
Ear, the guides are 8' -8020 1530 series extrusions, the slides are 8020 bi-fold UHMW extrusions with aluminum angle, and the MFS is just clipped to the angles. 
 
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