Thought I'd share my router table adventure with you guys. I've always been conscious about space since I have way too much stuff in my garage/shop for how little space I have. You could say I'm even a little OCD in that regard. Combined with my interests in also pursuing a lean setup, I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to figure out how my setup can be better.
Initially I built an MFT table with an aluminum extrusion base. The idea was much like most who lean down the build vs buy, I was going to make one instead of buying Festools (cheat - I ended up buying one anyway). It's a Paulk inspired table but much shorter.
Then I got to thinking - I could cut the underside to allow a router setup. After measuring I found I couldn't because the torsion box wasn't deep enough...so I built another.
Turned out kinda slick with the router lift and my 3 1/2 HP Porter Cable but I know that occasionally I need to bounce between two setups so I made another router plate. I got some 3/8-inch 6061 aluminum and took some measurements from the router and the lift plate.
I machined the router base pattern
Cut a recess for some zero clearance inserts
And drilled and tapped it so the inserts could be attached.
Then I used some phenolic plate and machined the zero clearance inserts.
I used some set screws to allow leveling and counter sunk holes for the machine screws.
Now I can set up the lift and the PC690 and switch as needed. I'd been oogling a portable bandsaw stand that I kinda wanted and had an idea...could I make an insert for the router table?
I needed to make a plate that replaced the material stop with an aluminum plate and fit it all in a router plate.
The basic profile is the same but I had to cut out the back to allow the saw to be inserted with the blade installed.
I was able to get a nice snug fit around the casing.
and finally dropping it into the MFT router table
and some test cuts.
I saw a systainer on here where a jigsaw was mounted upside down and inside. Why not...
That's a scary looking setup.
Did some test cuts. Even with the crappy Dewalt jigsaw I got minimal deflection and a beautiful cut.
A little laminate and the table was done.
The very first time I needed/wanted a two router setup, I found it a pain in the butt to switch between the two. The second router ended up just having an 1/8-inch quarter round bit in it to break the edges. What I needed was another table but it doesn't need to be big, just big enough to mount the router and have a little work surface. Then the idea...
I started by making small tables out of 1/2-inch Baltic birch plywood. Cut the tops to accept router plates.
Simple construction. Sides, front and back using pocket screws and glue.
And laminated the tops black to match all of my other counters.
Added the Kreg leveling inserts inside. I could make them like I did for the full sized table but the convenience of being done quickly.
Attached a cleat to the back so it can be hung on my various cleat walls.
This one has a plate allocation to work forwards for the bandsaw.
This one is made with the plate the conventional way and protrudes less.
And then just today I finally completed the setup by modifying the terrifying jigsaw plate to accept a Porter Cable 121 - portable oscillating spindle sander. I really like using it on the wall behind my bench because It still allows me to use nearly all of the bench surface at the same time.
I found a drum kit for the 121 on Amazon. Now I can switch between drum sizes as needed.
I haven't decided yet if I need to make zero clearance inserts for the sander yet. The smaller two still work ok but with littler pieces it may be difficult to hang on to the part.
I think I'm going to make a few more Router Buddies so I can leave the PC121 setup all the time next to the router.
Matt
Initially I built an MFT table with an aluminum extrusion base. The idea was much like most who lean down the build vs buy, I was going to make one instead of buying Festools (cheat - I ended up buying one anyway). It's a Paulk inspired table but much shorter.

Then I got to thinking - I could cut the underside to allow a router setup. After measuring I found I couldn't because the torsion box wasn't deep enough...so I built another.

Turned out kinda slick with the router lift and my 3 1/2 HP Porter Cable but I know that occasionally I need to bounce between two setups so I made another router plate. I got some 3/8-inch 6061 aluminum and took some measurements from the router and the lift plate.

I machined the router base pattern

Cut a recess for some zero clearance inserts

And drilled and tapped it so the inserts could be attached.

Then I used some phenolic plate and machined the zero clearance inserts.

I used some set screws to allow leveling and counter sunk holes for the machine screws.

Now I can set up the lift and the PC690 and switch as needed. I'd been oogling a portable bandsaw stand that I kinda wanted and had an idea...could I make an insert for the router table?
I needed to make a plate that replaced the material stop with an aluminum plate and fit it all in a router plate.

The basic profile is the same but I had to cut out the back to allow the saw to be inserted with the blade installed.

I was able to get a nice snug fit around the casing.

and finally dropping it into the MFT router table

and some test cuts.

I saw a systainer on here where a jigsaw was mounted upside down and inside. Why not...


That's a scary looking setup.

Did some test cuts. Even with the crappy Dewalt jigsaw I got minimal deflection and a beautiful cut.


A little laminate and the table was done.

The very first time I needed/wanted a two router setup, I found it a pain in the butt to switch between the two. The second router ended up just having an 1/8-inch quarter round bit in it to break the edges. What I needed was another table but it doesn't need to be big, just big enough to mount the router and have a little work surface. Then the idea...
I started by making small tables out of 1/2-inch Baltic birch plywood. Cut the tops to accept router plates.

Simple construction. Sides, front and back using pocket screws and glue.



And laminated the tops black to match all of my other counters.

Added the Kreg leveling inserts inside. I could make them like I did for the full sized table but the convenience of being done quickly.

Attached a cleat to the back so it can be hung on my various cleat walls.

This one has a plate allocation to work forwards for the bandsaw.

This one is made with the plate the conventional way and protrudes less.

And then just today I finally completed the setup by modifying the terrifying jigsaw plate to accept a Porter Cable 121 - portable oscillating spindle sander. I really like using it on the wall behind my bench because It still allows me to use nearly all of the bench surface at the same time.

I found a drum kit for the 121 on Amazon. Now I can switch between drum sizes as needed.

I haven't decided yet if I need to make zero clearance inserts for the sander yet. The smaller two still work ok but with littler pieces it may be difficult to hang on to the part.
I think I'm going to make a few more Router Buddies so I can leave the PC121 setup all the time next to the router.
Matt