Router Table Adventure...pic heavy

Scorpion

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Jan 15, 2014
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Thought I'd share my router table adventure with you guys.  I've always been conscious about space since I have way too much stuff in my garage/shop for how little space I have.  You could say I'm even a little OCD in that regard.  Combined with my interests in also pursuing a lean setup, I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to figure out how my setup can be better. 

Initially I built an MFT table with an aluminum extrusion base.  The idea was much like most who lean down the build vs buy, I was going to make one instead of buying Festools (cheat - I ended up buying one anyway).  It's a Paulk inspired table but much shorter.

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Then I got to thinking - I could cut the underside to allow a router setup.  After measuring I found I couldn't because the torsion box wasn't deep enough...so I built another.

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Turned out kinda slick with the router lift and my 3 1/2 HP Porter Cable but I know that occasionally I need to bounce between two setups so I made another router plate.  I got some 3/8-inch 6061 aluminum and took some measurements from the router and the lift plate.

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I machined the router base pattern

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Cut a recess for some zero clearance inserts

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And drilled and tapped it so the inserts could be attached.

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Then I used some phenolic plate and machined the zero clearance inserts.

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I used some set screws to allow leveling and  counter sunk holes for the machine screws.

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Now I can set up the lift and the PC690 and switch as needed.  I'd been oogling a portable bandsaw stand that I kinda wanted and had an idea...could I make an insert for the router table?
I needed to make a plate that replaced the material stop with an aluminum plate and fit it all in a router plate.

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The basic profile is the same but I had to cut out the back to allow the saw to be inserted with the blade installed.

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I was able to get a nice snug fit around the casing.

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and finally dropping it into the MFT router table

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and some test cuts.

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I saw a systainer on here where a jigsaw was mounted upside down and inside.  Why not...

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That's a scary looking setup.

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Did some test cuts.  Even with the crappy Dewalt jigsaw I got minimal deflection and a beautiful cut.

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A little laminate and the table was done.

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The very first time I needed/wanted a two router setup, I found it a pain in the butt to switch between the two.  The second router ended up just having an 1/8-inch quarter round bit in it to break the edges.  What I needed was another table but it doesn't need to be big, just big enough to mount the router and have a little work surface.  Then the idea...

I started by making small tables out of 1/2-inch Baltic birch plywood.  Cut the tops to accept router plates.

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Simple construction.  Sides, front and back using pocket screws and glue.

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And laminated the tops black to match all of my other counters.

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Added the Kreg leveling inserts inside.  I could make them like I did for the full sized table but the convenience of being done quickly.

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Attached a cleat to the back so it can be hung on my various cleat walls.

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This one has a plate allocation to work forwards for the bandsaw.

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This one is made with the plate the conventional way and protrudes less.

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And then just today I finally completed the setup by modifying the terrifying jigsaw plate to accept a Porter Cable 121 - portable oscillating spindle sander.  I really like using it on the wall behind my bench because It still allows me to use nearly all of the bench surface at the same time.

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I found a drum kit for the 121 on Amazon.  Now I can switch between drum sizes as needed.

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I haven't decided yet if I need to make zero clearance inserts for the sander yet.  The smaller two still work ok but with littler pieces it may be difficult to hang on to the part. 

I think I'm going to make a few more Router Buddies so I can leave the PC121 setup all the time next to the router. 

Matt
 
Great work! I have a small work space and have been thinking about different ways to make a modular setup that will work in a tight area. You have some great ideas that I might be borrowing as I try and figure out what the best setup for me is.

Jesse
 
Really nice job!  I especially like the idea of the mount for the jig saw upside down in the table. 
 
Scorpion

I had seen his on garage journal but thanks for resurrecting it.  Great ideas and build.  Love your organization and thinking!

neil
 
neilc said:
Scorpion

I had seen his on garage journal but thanks for resurrecting it.  Great ideas and build.  Love your organization and thinking!

neil

Thanks Neil.  Like adding to that thread but felt like putting a more succinct one together for the woodworking guys that showed the evolution better. 

Matt
 
Really cool...being able to machine aluminum really opens up a lot of possibilities.

Thanks for sharing.
 
Matt - great thread, thanks for re-posting it on the FOG.

I am presently working on my own shop and have just gotten the interior walls sheathed and started on the French cleats. My plan was to start at the top and work down to a height where stuff on the lowest cleat would be at the same height as my freestanding benches, in my case 37"/940MM. Seeing your setup I am revising the lowest cleat location but there will be one that lines up with my other work surfaces.

Any advise on spacing the cleats? Right now I have the top one set where the upper lip is 4" below the top of wall, so I can use 3" cleats and have 1" above to maneuver the cabinet or fixture.

[attachimg=1]

I like how your lower cleats are only a couple inches apart and some are even below the level of the stationary worktop. Any thoughts on spacing, in particular the cleats between those and the highest one?

Thanks,

RMW

PS - I am going to copy the router buddies, I also have the PC 121 and a Portaband, was trying to figure out the best way to handle them.
 

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[member=27782]Scorpion[/member] [member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]

How wide and thick are your cleats and what material did you make them from?  How much space did you leave between them on the wall?

Thanks, Mike A.
 
mike_aa said:
[member=27782]Scorpion[/member] [member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]

How wide and thick are your cleats and what material did you make them from?  How much space did you leave between them on the wall?

Thanks, Mike A.

[member=30413]mike_aa[/member] - Mine are 3/4 nominal birch ply, 70mm tall. I left a ~3mm flat on the top edge by setting my tablesaw at 45 degrees and the fence at 54mm. Used 2-1/2" Fastcap Powerhead screws because I expect to have mucho weight on them.

Have not figured out the best spacing yet.

RMW
 
I find the best way to space french cleats is to use them point to point to make the spacing. This usually leaves enough room to remove them.

Your wall cleat comes off the wall looking like \|, use the movable part reversed |/ and let it sit on the tip.
 
Richard/RMW said:
[member=30413]mike_aa[/member] - Mine are 3/4 nominal birch ply, 70mm tall. I left a ~3mm flat on the top edge by setting my tablesaw at 45 degrees and the fence at 54mm. Used 2-1/2" Fastcap Powerhead screws because I expect to have mucho weight on them.

Have not figured out the best spacing yet.

RMW

I"m glad you responded since for some reason in the picture the cleats looked about 100mm wide or so.  That's a good tip about the screws.  I have a pack of those stashed around here somewhere so I'll have to remember to pull them out when I get ready to do some cleats.  Thanks for your response!  Mike A.
 
Neohio said:
I find the best way to space french cleats is to use them point to point to make the spacing. This usually leaves enough room to remove them.

Your wall cleat comes off the wall looking like \|, use the movable part reversed |/ and let it sit on the tip.

Hey Neohio, That's a great way to figure out what the minimum space should be!  Thanks for the tip!  My luck, I would have not thought it through and ended up mounting them too close, LOL!

I hope you don't have to do any driving on I-90 today with this current blast of snow!

Mike A.
 
Richard/RMW said:
Matt - great thread, thanks for re-posting it on the FOG.

I am presently working on my own shop and have just gotten the interior walls sheathed and started on the French cleats. My plan was to start at the top and work down to a height where stuff on the lowest cleat would be at the same height as my freestanding benches, in my case 37"/940MM. Seeing your setup I am revising the lowest cleat location but there will be one that lines up with my other work surfaces.

Any advise on spacing the cleats? Right now I have the top one set where the upper lip is 4" below the top of wall, so I can use 3" cleats and have 1" above to maneuver the cabinet or fixture.

[attachimg=1]

I like how your lower cleats are only a couple inches apart and some are even below the level of the stationary worktop. Any thoughts on spacing, in particular the cleats between those and the highest one?

Thanks,

RMW

PS - I am going to copy the router buddies, I also have the PC 121 and a Portaband, was trying to figure out the best way to handle them.

I went out and checked - after cutting the 45, the cleat is 3 3/8-inches tip to base (them long side).  I can't remember how I got to that measurement.  The spacing I used is 2 3/4-inches opening.  The reasoning behind having a smaller opening than cleats height is that I wanted a larger cleats surface on the wall than opening surface since the bottom of a cleated accessory relies on the cleat surface for support.  I didn't want to have to put a spacer on the things I hung on the wall to space it out.  Like these examples -

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It made sense in my head at that moment in time anyway.  It does, however, limit the hung item to having no more than a 2 1/2-inch wide cleat.  Not sure either measurement matters that much.

The bottom-most one is actually functional.  I have items on the wall like this little tray that aren't wider than the cleat and for on the bottom one which keeps it off of the bench top.  In originally built for moments where I had bolts I needed to keep together during an assembly/disassembly like a transfer case.

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Unfortunately, and as I'm sure you noticed, such a useful tray easily becomes a miscellaneous parts catch-all.  Yes, my shop is uncharacteristically a disaster right now.

It took me a while to find the PC121.  I think I bid on maybe a dozen on eBay before I actually won one.  Sometimes they go now for more than they cost new.  So happy I have one now.

What kind of router plate do you have?  Rockler's are smaller at 8 1/4 x 11 3/4, JessEm and Kreg plates are 9 1/4 x 11 3/4, and Incra's suck at 9.270 x 11.770.
 
mike_aa said:
[member=27782]Scorpion[/member] [member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]

How wide and thick are your cleats and what material did you make them from?  How much space did you leave between them on the wall?

Thanks, Mike A.

I also made mine out of ply - specifically 3/4-inch Baltic birch. 

FWIW - I cut the 45 against the grain b/c I believe that when going with the grain, the "lip" isn't as strong.  Never had one fail regardless though.
 
Scorpion said:
What kind of router plate do you have?  Rockler's are smaller at 8 1/4 x 11 3/4, JessEm and Kreg plates are 9 1/4 x 11 3/4, and Incra's suck at 9.270 x 11.770.

Matt - I have the Kreg plates which match the WoodPeckers one also, not sure which company makes them but all are identical & use the same inserts. I scored a WP plate for the Triton router and then realized it was the same as the Kreg plates.

Searched Amazon for the drum kit for the PC 121 to no avail, if you got it recently can you share the link?

Thanks,

RMW 
 
Richard/RMW said:
Matt - I have the Kreg plates which match the WoodPeckers one also, not sure which company makes them but all are identical & use the same inserts. I scored a WP plate for the Triton router and then realized it was the same as the Kreg plates.

Searched Amazon for the drum kit for the PC 121 to no avail, if you got it recently can you share the link?

Thanks,

RMW

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member] -

the drum kit is the POWERTEC Oscillating Sander Rubber Drum, 3/4", 1", 1-1/2", 2", 3", 5/PK

They fit perfectly except the 3-inch drum which is too large for the 121's capacity.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NBBAKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_5lc0wb6ND8FXR

Sanding sleeves by Steelex
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_box_hi?k=steelex+sanding+sleeves

Sleeves by Powertech
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i:aps,k:powertec+sanding+sleeves&keywords=powertec+sanding+sleeves&ie=UTF8&qid=1456481665

Shop fox, Delta, and Jet also make the sanding sleeves but I can't find confirmation that they fit these drums well.

 
Richard/RMW said:
Matt - great thread, thanks for re-posting it on the FOG.

I am presently working on my own shop and have just gotten the interior walls sheathed and started on the French cleats.

Richard, I almost forgot to comment on a few  things -

First, you're 8020 cutting table is awesome.  Very creative, simple, and portable.  A copycat is on list if I can get up the courage to order more 8020.

Second, I'm following along on your build.  Ive been frequently impressed at how thoughtful your organizational approach is.  Looking forward to more there.
 
Scorpion said:
Richard/RMW said:
Matt - great thread, thanks for re-posting it on the FOG.

I am presently working on my own shop and have just gotten the interior walls sheathed and started on the French cleats.

Richard, I almost forgot to comment on a few  things -

First, you're 8020 cutting table is awesome.  Very creative, simple, and portable.  A copycat is on list if I can get up the courage to order more 8020.

Second, I'm following along on your build.  Ive been frequently impressed at how thoughtful your organizational approach is.  Looking forward to more there.

Matt, that is high praise indeed coming from someone with your skills and ability, thank you. Progress was made on the shop today, I just updated that thread.

Just ordered a gob of 80/20 yesterday, it can be an expensive habit. As soon as all the tools and stuff are back on the walls I am going to rebuilt my material cart, which will double as the home of the new Shapeoko 3. Spring is so close around the corner that I have to get this stuff done before it is time to hit the water or I'll be tripping over everything for another summer.

RMW
 
Richard, I use the following spacing when I do a french cleat system: Space the cleats at 12", 30", 48", 66" and 84" AFF.  Use a minimum of two cleats per cabinet so any cabinet is supported by no less than two cleats.  Base cabinets are supported by two cleats plus two Ikea Sektion (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10265518/) legs at the front to make under-cabinet cleaning easier.  If using the metric system, space the French cleats at 300mm, 750mm, 1200mm, 1650mm and 2100mm AFF.  Full-length cabinets are supported by as many as five cleats, since they'll likely be heavier when fully loaded.  I like this system because shorter cabinets can be positioned higher or lower as needed.  Also, there's room underneath base cabinets for legs (ease of cleaning) or a false toekick. 
 
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