Routers

mino said:
An that is also why the OF1010 is the precise router for template work - it has no template pre-positioning and requires centering the templates using a mandrel, making sure it is aligned with the spindle itself.

One of my OF 1010 rings was supplied with countersunk screws. It doesnt matter what you do with the mandrel.  I replaced the screws, obviously. Didn't occur to me that I should have complained/returned it back then.
 
Michael Kellough said:
The Festool routers have a flat side, use that.

Sounds like the size of the router is also a problem. Use a small trim router and fence. Probably have to make a custom fence to get closer to the obstruction.

I have a lot of round base routers and none of the bases are truly concentric with the spindle axis. The closest is nearly .01” off. Some people think that’s close enough…

Though it seems like it should be the right thing to do, that will get you into trouble very quickly.
Even if a round base is slightly off center, a minor rotation of the router will make a very slight variance, plus it will be so gradual as to be un-noticeable. However, allowing a flat base to rotate makes a very noticeable "bump". It's easy enough to do with a small palm-sized router, most of which are effectively cylindrical, but that handle on A Festool router might make that worse?
 
Crazy Question:

Using the MFK 700 with the edge guide: If I place the edge guide along the edge of 3/!6" aluminum plate, bring the straight bit to the edge, then back off the edge guide 0.1-0.2 mm and run the router along the edge, will I get a nice straight cut, or just "F" it up?
 
I figure that if I. place a shim equal to the amount I want to rout off (0.1mm) behind the following portion of the edge guide, I should have a "portable router table".
 
SHVentus said:
Crazy Question:

Using the MFK 700 with the edge guide: If I place the edge guide along the edge of 3/!6" aluminum plate, bring the straight bit to the edge, then back off the edge guide 0.1-0.2 mm and run the router along the edge, will I get a nice straight cut, or just "F" it up?

Part of the way, it will be ok, but eventually you are going to get snipe. The only way it could work is if the part of the fence behind the bit contacted the cut portion of the wood.
 
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