Routing in a multipoint lock with the OF1010

joesan

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2009
Messages
27
I need to rout in a new multipoint lock into an existing in-place timber door.

The door is 44mm wide timber and needs to be routed in-place (ie I can't take it off the hinges and will need to run the router vertically up and down the door while it's in place). The lock is 160cm and the door is 210cm so there's plenty of room not to hit the top of the frame or the floor at the bottom.

I have the OF1010 router. I was thinking about buying another parallel edge guide and using one edge guide each side of the door to keep the router in the middle to do the routing for multipoint bar and lock mechanisms.

Question: will this set up be stable enough to let me rout the door properly? Would you do it another way? Any suggestions for making the lock recesses at the right place in the door?

 
I think that would be OK.  You could make a temporary second fence out of block of wood and some threaded inserts to lock the bars.

I'd be tempted to start on the centreline with a cutter slightly narrower than the slot you want and cut both up and down, so you know the groove will be perfectly centred.

Andrew
 
You don't need to buy anything unless you want to buy the Festool of-fh 2200 pictured below for over 200 bucks.

Just make the thing out of 3 pieces of scrap wood and screw it to your router's base.

For stable operation you want the two fins to be bigger than what the edge guide can offer.

[attachimg=1]
 

Attachments

  • festool-freeshulp-of-fh-2200.jpg
    festool-freeshulp-of-fh-2200.jpg
    62.5 KB · Views: 459
joesan said:
I need to rout in a new multipoint lock into an existing in-place timber door.

The door is 44mm wide timber and needs to be routed in-place (ie I can't take it off the hinges and will need to run the router vertically up and down the door while it's in place). The lock is 160cm and the door is 210cm so there's plenty of room not to hit the top of the frame or the floor at the bottom.

I have the OF1010 router. I was thinking about buying another parallel edge guide and using one edge guide each side of the door to keep the router in the middle to do the routing for multipoint bar and lock mechanisms.

Question: will this set up be stable enough to let me rout the door properly? Would you do it another way? Any suggestions for making the lock recesses at the right place in the door?

What is the required depth of the lock mechanism? I am thinking the the OF1010 might not be able to use a long enough bit to make it work.
 
Thanks guys. These are some great points for me to think about.

[member=6802]Roseland[/member] It hadn't occurred to me to just use a block on the other side. I'll investigate that. I think it's doable as this is a one-off. Good tip to do a slightly smaller initial pass.

[member=5277]Alex[/member] Too right. I looked at that lustfully and briefly but the price is astronomical for a one-off use. I like your idea of making my own. I think I have a mental road block as to getting the hole positioning for the router plate right. But, how hard could it be?

[member=652]JimH2[/member] That's a good point. The backset is either 35mm or 45mm + 17mm so I'd need to go down either 52mm or 62mm. I suppose I could always use a forstner bit in a drill for the final few millimetres as you may be right about the depth limitation.
 
I have templates for routing a few lock and strike plate styles. The company that sells them has quite a variety and will custom make if they do not have it. Not suitable for a single, but you certainly can cobble together what Festool has. The big concern with a 1/4" is going to be find one long enough. Your idea of using a forstner bit to finish is good. I doubt there are 1/4" pattern cutting bits that are 62mm long.

You consider drilling holes with a forstner or spade bit at a smaller diameter to get rid of a lot of the material before routing.
 
Back
Top