Safest way to cut aluminum channel on a saw

[Mark]

I can tell you all a stupid way to do it [wink] I had to rebuild an aluminum screen frame the other day but don't have a miter saw or miter box. So I decided to free hand the 45 with a hacksaw and some will power. What a pile of crap I made not to mention the freakish abomination of a screen frame didn't even fit. So...

I decided to do it with my MFT set to 45 and carefully trim the aluminum frame to secure a truer angle and cleaner cut. Wuhtang! went the offcut, into the freshly painting house siding like a flying piece of shrapnel. I did manage to finish the job, mess up my rubber guard, dent the house siding and keep my eye sight with a "less crappy" job at the end of the day...

So, how should aluminum channel be cut safely? I did this same thing for a summer in college in a frameshop and mitersaw that threw shards ricocheting around a small crowded room full of framing glass. Always had the sphincter action everytime I had to cut a job.

Ideas?

 

[jvsteenb]

Number one: Use the right sawblade. A blade for aluminum framecutting will have a negative hook, and another tooth-design. Most wood cutting blades use ATB ( alternate top bevel ) whilst aluminum cutting blades usually sport TCG ( triple chip grind ) design. Trust me, it's a huge difference.
A spark arrestor , steel cyclone or even one of these dustbucket-tops will spare your vac - use it, or you'll have hot aluminum chips flying around your workplace.
It'll always be kind of a tight-sphincter-thing, I'm afraid. Use clamps instead of your hands whenever possible. Let the saw make the cut, don't push it - aluminum profiles are a lot less forgiving than wood in my experience. Mind your safety, and do it like it's supposed to be done. Good luck !

Regards,

Job

 

[peter halle]

Also remember to wear safety glasses.  I have a stick of lubricant that gets applied to the blade.  Anybody else use something similar?

 

[jvsteenb]

I use a little petroleum or a piece of waxine ( kind of candlewax ) cutting aluminum, but I specifically don't use it in combination with a vac for I suspect it might just be a bit of a firehazard.
You know, hot chips, lots of air, evaporating hydrocarbons..... [scared]
The safetyglasses are default.

Regards,

Job

 

[Michael Kellough]

In addition to using the right blade and lubrication use a slower speed
on the saw and a slower feed rate. Also, you'll get better results and
less of the sphincter tightening sudden loud noises and flying shrapnel
if you capture the aluminum between wood, even the off-cut.

For lubrication several things will help, but the sticky wax stick sold
for the purpose is best. WD-40 is pretty good but messy and even
dish detergent is better than nothing.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Interesting, I've never heard of the wax stick for cutting metals. I have the Aluminum for the Kapex, my hacksaw now sits very lonely on a shelf somewhere.

 

[peter halle]

Brice,

the brand i use is porter cable. Comes in a stick about 6 inches long by 1.25 inches in diameter. Also use it for screws on occasion.  I'll dig it out of the trailer.  Certainly not right on top.

Peter

 

[Inner10]

What gauge is the channel?

I use a 14" abrasive chopsaw for steel and a mitersaw with a metal blade for aluminum...it is a little messy.

I've only used the sticks when drilling steel.

 

[TheToolPlace]

Cutting Aluminum in particular can be difficult for any saw blade.  Since aluminum has a lower melting point it can gum up of your blade.  That's where using a lubricant comes in.

We sell lubricants for cutting Steel and Aluminum.  The one for aluminum is similar to this one.

There is also a wax stick version that we carry similar to this one here.

Thanks,

Chad

 

[Mark]

Use the right blade and use safety glasses refrain from eating refried beans before cutting aluminum The gauge of the channel is pretty thin so I knew the saw could handle it. I did try back cutting the channel by dragging back on the saw to cut rather than push. This "seemed" to help but not much. What I'm really looking for is an reason to get a Kapex There are simply things that the TS55 is not suited for and crosscutting non-panel items always seems to bite me. Again thanks for the advice!

 

[Corwin]

I've cut lots of aluminum.  Use the wax.  And most of all, feed slowly as the blade is about to break through an edge, otherwise you will likely get some major kickback.  Often you can help the kickback situation by placing the stock on a wedged shaped base (or Vee blocks) such that the blade will exit at a corner rather than along a larger edge.  We had a RAS saw for cutting aluminum channel and made a pneumatic power feed unit to control the saw and eliminate reduce the kickback.  

 

[score0matic]

Let me see...
you are talking about the screen frame  with the little pressed "U" channel for the spline  that have press in corners...  I worked at a glass shop and made up 100's of them. 
Use a 20tpi hand saw and wooden mitre box for the cuts
It is better because you control the cuts and NEVER have to worry about the saw grabbing and ruining the piece
It is faster because you can set it up where you roll your screen.
It is smarter because you are not spending $1300 for a tool that a $20 tool can do better,

You Don't need an excuse to buy a Kapex [wink]
but if you want one to give to the Missess you should come up something better that the occasional  than screen frame [2cents] think new kitchen cabinets  that often works
Craig

 

[Jesus Aleman]

Gents, would a jigsaw (with the right blade) be too sloppy?

JGA.