Save Money, Buy Festool

Ned

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Jul 24, 2009
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A common problem for amateurs is justifying these expensive tools to their spouses.  Pros want the most for their money, too. 

There are hints scattered all over the forum about tools you don't need if you're using Festools.  I'd like to gather these hints in one place to help those who are trying to justify, to themselves or others, the purchase of Festools.

It's certainly true that all these things I claim "aren't needed" have their place.  Unless you believe that a claim made here wouldn't work for anyone, I don't want to get into an argument about it.  These are talking points to support buying Festool.

Because these are talking points for the skeptical, let's stick to those cases where a Festool purchase can plausibly eliminate the need for another tool.  We know the abrasives last a long time, and that the MFS can replace many templates, but what we need in this situation is "If I buy Festool whatever, then I don't need this other $100 thing."

Here we go:

Vacs
  • My CT22 vac is so quiet and effective that it's welcome in the living quarters any time.  We don't have carpet; my wife uses a simple and cheap "electric broom".  I haul the CT upstairs for any major cleaning.

Plunge Saws & Guide Rails
  • Door trimming is quick and accurate enough that you don't need a Porta Plane.
  • Allow jointing of boards without a jointer.  John Lucas shows how at www.woodshopdemos.com.
  • Are cheaper than a panel saw.

Drills
  • The Depth Setting Chuck, as an add-on, is less than half the cost of a good cordless drywall gun.
 
Ned,
I like this concept -- a kind of "tool benefit summary" by category.

A lot of times, new customers wonder about general categories like this, before they start to specify individual tools.  I remember when I was considering my first Festool purchase, and this was the kind of information I wanted to get started.

Does anyone else have their own summary like this to offer?

Thanks,
Matthew
 
this will be useful, but in my experience the best argument to use for a spouse is:

"but honey, it has a vacuum cleaner and is almost dust-free."
 
When I first bought into Festool, it was after several weeks of weighing the balance between getting a lot of conventional, cheap and sometimes big tools, like a table saw and jointer, vs. buying into the Festool system. Festool won, largely because of dust collection and partly because for me, using well-made tools is one of the pleasures of woodworking. It's not a decision I've regretted for an instant. My shop packs into a couple of cubic metres, and it's there for a lifetime of pleasurable use. And my dust consumption has dropped by 90%.

Matt
 
I, too, like the fact that my entire shop [less planner] can fit into my Subaru Forester - and it packs up in about 10 minutes.  I don't do much on-site work, but when I do, my whole shop is there.

I also really like the value!  For the price of a good cabinet saw, I have an entire system that is designed to work together to produce high quality, precision wood working pieces.  I think most folks don't really get the system aspect of FesTools.  Having one or two is likely nice, but the real value comes with "The System".  And, it just works.  As one of the FOG members recently told me - you get to make pieces, not merely sawdust.  I like that!
 
This is something I've been meaning to ask for awhile, so thanks for reminding me.

Do you really not need a jointer if you have the saw and guide rails? I've been thinking that way for awhile, but I've not done any rough board machining. Yes, I've seen John Lucas' page about jointing two long irregular boards.

It would be nice to finally put the "need a jointer" ghost to bed.
 
I don't think you need a joiner.  I don't have one - don't miss it.  My stuff seems to end up pretty square.  The rails and stiles seem to fit.  Edge joining seems to work ok.  Not sure any more what I would use a joiner for...

That's my opinion.  I'm sure there are lots of folks out there with joiners who have other ideas about it and that's why they make those things.
 
LaserGecko said:
This is something I've been meaning to ask for awhile, so thanks for reminding me.

Do you really not need a jointer if you have the saw and guide rails? I've been thinking that way for awhile, but I've not done any rough board machining. Yes, I've seen John Lucas' page about jointing two long irregular boards.

It would be nice to finally put the "need a jointer" ghost to bed.

You can get around a jointer for edge jointing with lots of different methods. However, IMO, the main purpose of a joiner is for facing wood. Festool doesn't really offer anything that will work with wider widths that I'm aware of in NA. I personally would never be without a joiner. The quality of my work improved exponentially when I got a jointer and planer for my shop. Hand tools and/or a sled for a planer can do the face jointing for you, but its certainly slower. Having a jointer opens up all kinds of possibilities with wood that is far less expensive. 
 
Lou Miller said:
Having a jointer opens up all kinds of possibilities with wood that is far less expensive. 

Big time, I went from a 6" to 8" to 12" jointer and I kick myself for not buying the 12" to begin with. Buying all my stock in the rough is the only way to buy. I would say its the second most used tool in my shop besides my TS...
 
Ted Miller said:
Lou Miller said:
Having a jointer opens up all kinds of possibilities with wood that is far less expensive. 

Big time, I went from a 6" to 8" to 12" jointer and I kick myself for not buying the 12" to begin with. Buying all my stock in the rough is the only way to buy. I would say its the second most used tool in my shop besides my TS...

I stopped at a 10". If the 12" machines that are on the market were available when I bought my 10", I'd have gone for one of them instead. My jointer is the third most used tool in my shop. The DC is first, followed by the TS. When I finally do get around to building a shop that is large enough, I plan on looking for one of those old 16" or 20" machines and restore it. MMarzluf over on Woodnet has a Fay and Egan (I think that's the correct name) that he restored and it justs a beautiful piece of equipment. One of these days, one of these days...

I get offers all the time for wood that just can't be sold at a retail level because its warped or twisted too badly. Anything that is over 5/4, I grab it and mill it into usable stock that is 3/4" or thicker. Works out great for smaller items like drawers parts and so forth. Usually its about 20% of what it would normally sell for. The jointer really appeals to the cheapskate (yes, cheapskates own Festools too) in me. I've paid for mine several times over now with the savings in wood.

Even if its just a small 6" machine on a mobile base, I personally think its a tool that should be in every shop. Just my opinion of course...
 
I justify my Festool purchases by using them to make enough $$$ to pay for them. I do part time home repairs, bought the plunge saw with guides in place of a jobsite TS when I read a review that stated that it could be used in lieu of of one and I never looked back. Latest purchase was a Domino for a run of cabinets and built-in furniture that I will be starting shortly, it arrived two days ago and is not even out of the box...did I mention that I hate to lay ceramic tile? :>}

John
 
With respect to those who don't need a jointer, in my shop, it's one of the most used pieces of machinery.  I buy most of my hardwood lumber in the rough, and the best way to get a flat face on a board is to run it over the jointer with the right technique.  I use a 12" SAC machine with Tersa knife tooling.  Once the boards are flat and run through the thickness planer, Festool system stuff can take over, but usually I go to the RT 40 Delta table saw and the 12" DeWalt radial arm saw.
 
Wouldn't sell my table saw or jointer, but sold my FMT jig and my biscuit jointer when I bought the Domino, actually come out ahead a few bucks ;D
 
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