Saw blade - Alu/plastic blade for cutting laminate boards

[Pjotrwolf]

I need to cut some laminated boards for a bathroom with my TS-55
I do not have the 496308 blade intended for laminate, only the Z48 491952 standard blade and the Z56 439686 blade for aluminum/plastics.
Which of these is the best option for cutting laminate? My thought was to use the Alu/plastic blade, also to use the last of my splinter guard before replacing it.
But I do not know, so I would like the feedback from you guys.

-p

 

[Pjotrwolf]

Laminated boards should be understood as solid surface boards
Sorry for any confusion

-p

 

[Frank-Jan]

I have used both the laminate blade and the alu blade to cut trespa panels. The material is called "volkern" in Dutch, and I think it is described in English as "high pressure laminate".

It works well, but the biggest difference between the blades (laminate vs alu) is the negative tooth angle, so the saw has a tendency to jump up of the rail if it is not sharp enough or when you plunge not carefull enough.

I would definately not use the standard blade.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

I think the Fedtool blade 489457 TF48 tooth is the blade for Solid Surface/Corian type material.

Is the material you are cutting solid surface all the way through or does it have a chipboard core and 6mm solid surface top?

I use a TS75 for cutting solid surface worktops along with a Festool Corian blade. It does give a good clean cut.

Tim.

 

[Frank-Jan]

Yes, the 489457 blade is the laminate blade (now replaced with 496308), but the 439686 (now replaced with 496306) is also suitable (which he has already).

The 439686 has tripple chip teeth, but more and at a negative rake, so the cut quality will be at least as good, and it won't damage the blade.

 

[Pjotrwolf]

The boards are a 10mm thick sandwich construction, consisting of high-pressure laminate both sides, and a plywood core.
They are certified water resistant, and normally used for walls in wet rooms, at least here in Scandinavia

I know about the 496308 blade that is specifically made for this use, but it cost as much as a second-hand car at my local Festool store, alternatively take some time to get shipped.

I wasn´t aware about the tooth angle difference between the alu-blade and the solid surface blade.

So the optimum solution is to get the 496308 solid surface blade
The second best option is to ensure my 439686 is freshly sharpened - and plunge carefully [unsure]

 

[Frank-Jan]

I didn't mean to scare you (too much  [wink])
I would just use the alu blade if I were you.
By being carefull I just meant you should be aware that it could jump if you rush your cuts or over-reach.
We use it for cutting fascia boards out of large sheets (usually only 6mm thick solid high pressure laminate), so it's lot's of repetitive cuts. Or triangles for the sides of dormer windows.
My father doesn't pay much attention to some details he just orders "a blade for trespa" at the hardware store and sometimes we got the alu blade and sometimes the laminate blade.

 

[rst]

I work with plastics and aluminum even more than wood.  I keep industrial aluminum/plastic blades in all my saws, too many to bother counting, from table saws to HKC, probably 15+ tools.  The laminate and aluminum/plastic blades are very similar, usually the negative angle is only a degree or so different with the aluminum/plastic blades having steeper angles.