Saw bundle purchase??? HELP!

[rodwolfy]

OK, some questions for all of you Festool fans (long):

I cut down 8 or 10 sheets of plywood a year and they always seem to splinter and ruin the sheets. I could put tape on the cut line, or I could use the Festool saw?

I have a cabinet job to do in the near future. I have a table saw, which is a pain to cut down 8? sheets of plywood on. I was thinking about getting a Festool saw with guide to cut down the sheets to size. I was thinking that I could use a solid piece of foam insulation to cut them on. I have been reading the past posts and got a lot of good information and some different opinions.

I could probably come up with about $1000. From what I have read, it looks like I want to get the 55 as I don?t need the weight or depth of cut of the 75. I want to get the 55? guide and the 75? guide rails (any problems keeping them aligned and straight, or should I get the 118??). I don?t know about the accessories kit. It seems like a waste of money, and someone said that the angle guide doesn?t work very accurately for an angled cut of 36? or more (I think they said it was off 1/16?). Do I need to purchase the extra splinter guards?

Next, I have a Fein Turbo II, with the auto on. Is this good enough for sawing and sanding (I recently got the new 150, but have only used it once. I purchased an adaptor to make it fit the Fein hose). Is the Festool vacuum really worth $500? Should I get the Mini CT or the CT 22E? I didn?t see much of a difference, other than 99% vs. 99.9% dust and a little more foot lbs vs. a hose storage)

A bunch of you mentioned the 1080 MDF thing. I do mostly traditional work on a bench with hand planes and all that? I?m thinking I could probably cut the cabinet parts on the jobsite on the insulation or would it be better to pay $400 for the table (couldn?t you just make an MDF table with folding legs and drilled holes for $100?).

Lastly, could I buy the router guide for $29 and use it with my Bosch routers?

Thanks!
Rod

 

[Eli]

You sound like you're on the right track. The fein vac will work fine (he,he). You wouldn't be disappointed with the 1080MFT, but you don't have to have it. No problem with aligning the connected guide rails. Not sure about using another router with the guide rail adaptor, but you can run the router along the backside of the rail. You might want a pair of clamps for that application.

 

[Qwas]

I have a Fein Turbo 1 and it works fine with the TS-55. Hose fits right on and is as powerful as the CT-22.

I bought the rail accessory kit and found it to be a waste of money, especially if you get MFT. The angle unit is awkward to use. I find it easier to mark my angled line, put the guide on the line and cut.

The splinter guards don't really wear out. You just want a new guard when using a different blade. When I change blades, I keep the old splinter guard with the old blade, and install the splinter guard I have for that blade or install a new splinter guard to keep with the blade.

 

[Corwin]

Since you already have a nice vac, you might want to get the TS55/1080MFT combo -- the MFT does make many operations easier to set up and will earn its' keep around the shop.  Either way, you will want a pair of the FS clamps to hold the guide rail -- may not always need them, but you will want them.

The 75" rail with either two of the 55's or one 118" should take care of the 4'x8' stuff -- I like my 118 because it is a little more care free to handle (or at least I feel that way) than the two 55's connected, but either work just fine.

You might look into some of the threads here that discuss making perpendicular and parallel cuts with sheet goods to see what else is involved in the process...  If you get these operations down, you may find the need to cut more than 8 sheets a year 

Corwin

 

[semenza]

Hi,You will find a lot of opinions on rail length and some of this depends on how the person is set up to work. I have the 1400, 1900, and 3000. Though the 1400 (55") will do 48" cuts I find it much easier with a 75" especially if you want to support the ends of the rail with same thickness pieces. I also like having the extra length when making wide angled cuts. I use the 1400 as well on shorter stuff just because it is handy. And for 8' cuts you can't beat having the 2700 or 3000.  Yes, joining the rails works and is a good way to go at the start in order to cut cost, but down the road I highly recomend the 2700 or 3000. I often find myself switching between wanting to do long cuts and shorter ones then back again.  Personally I find it a real pain putting the rails together then apart then back together. I like to put down the sort one and pick up the long one.

Seth

 

[rodwolfy]

Since you already have a nice vac, you might want to get the TS55/1080MFT combo -- the MFT does make many operations easier to set up and will earn its' keep around the shop.  Either way, you will want a pair of the FS clamps to hold the guide rail -- may not always need them, but you will want them.

The 75" rail with either two of the 55's or one 118" should take care of the 4'x8' stuff -- I like my 118 because it is a little more care free to handle (or at least I feel that way) than the two 55's connected, but either work just fine.

You might look into some of the threads here that discuss making perpendicular and parallel cuts with sheet goods to see what else is involved in the process...  If you get these operations down, you may find the need to cut more than 8 sheets a year   

Corwin

OK,

I am also cutting a lot of 5' no void ply. Should I pay to get a 75" (over the 55") and a 118"? What about the parallel guide thing; do I need it?

If I'm understanding you guys...TS 55 kit, 118" and an 1080 MFT, two clamps (fast action ones or just screw?), an extra splinter guard. Anything else?

 

[Eli]

I'm finding I'm using lever clamps to the exclusion of screw, but the longer screw ones are good for reach.

 

[Dan Clark]

I agree with Eli.  I have a set of the fast action clamps and the shorter screw versions.  My mistake was getting the shorter screw versions.  Get the longer ones.

Dan.

 

[Ned]

We've all grumbled about the price of the fast action clamps.  And everyone who has them picks them up first.  You won't regret getting them.

Good point about the long clamps.  The best choice if you're going to get just 2 pairs is a pair of fast action clamps and a pair of the long screw clamps.

You'll get a 1400 (55") rail with the saw.  While Seth is right about the convenience of a single rail for 8-foot cuts, the 2700 (105") is big bucks and of course the 3000 (118") is more.  And those two rails are good for nothing but the long cuts (and edge routing long bar tops)--they aren't as versatile as a 1900.  At the rate that you're cutting sheets now, I'd just get a 1900 (75") and skip the 3000 (118") for now.  Remember to get two rail connectors.  1900 + 1400 = 130".  Works for me.

You can always get a longer rail when you discover you've moved from 8 sheets per year to 8 per weekend  ;D.

Ned

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      Not that the MFT isn't a good thing. Since you have a table saw, and are primarily (?) planning to be breaking down plywood with the Festool stuff. You could probably skip the MFT for now and save some $ for the additional Guide Rails to make that job easier.  You can't really do full sheets on the MFT. In fact you can't even cross cut  48".  Also, even though I prefer the 2700 or 3000 rails. They do get in the way for in between lengths.  As Ned suggested the 75" (1900) is a good length to get the most versatile combination, and bang for your buck.

Seth
   

 

[rodwolfy]

Good point about the long clamps.  The best choice if you're going to get just 2 pairs is a pair of fast action clamps and a pair of the long screw clamps.

Ned

Ned,

What are the Festool Part numbers for these clamps?

 

[rodwolfy]

Hi,

      Not that the MFT isn't a good thing. Since you have a table saw, and are primarily (?) planning to be breaking down plywood with the Festool stuff. You could probably skip the MFT for now and save some $ for the additional Guide Rails to make that job easier.   You can't really do full sheets on the MFT. In fact you can't even cross cut  48".  Also, even though I prefer the 2700 or 3000 rails. They do get in the way for in between lengths.  As Ned suggested the 75" (1900) is a good length to get the most versatile combination, and bang for your buck.

Seth
   

Seth,

What exactly is the advantage of the MDF table in the first place? I don't get it. Is it mostly for people with small shops and no tablesaw?

I should have probably explained that I have an old used Felder with a 4' slider. I do most of my crosscuts on that, but the sheet goods are a pain as the slider is only a 4' one. I have a traditional workbench, router table and scms. I do a lot of hand plane work.

I have done a few sets of cabinets and a couple of kitchens, but my parents want new cabinets. I was thinking of building them at their house (with my dad doing the work), as my shoulder will be out of commision for the next 3 months (surgery). I did a kitchen on the other side of the state a couple years ago and built the stuff on site. I used saw horses and an 8' aluminum guide. I am leery of using the two part guides as that one waisted a couple of sheets by flexing at the joint. I'm planning on cutting the sheet goods in their garage, on a couple of saw horses and 2x4s or solid insulation sheet. What is the benefit of the MDF Table? Is it just to make quicker 24" crosscuts and a mobile workbench? Why not just mark the sheetgoods and use the guiderail on the marks? Use a piece of plywood on a couple of saw horses?

A couple of other questions:
1) Do they do packages of 3 tools for a bigger discount (saw, MDF, vacuum)?

2) What is the value of the $42 parallel guide? Isn't it just as easy to mark a 2" cut and adjust the edgeguide to the marks?

3) I saw that the Festool router to fence guide has two steel posts that attach the guide plate to the router. Will these work on my Bosch base? My Felder doesn't do dado's, so I usually use a Clamp and Tool Guide (the rail with the clamp underneath) with router to make long dados. I'd rather have it attached to the rail somehow to avoid bumping the dado out of straight (which has happened a few times!).

By the way, I really value your guys combined expertise. I can see that this is another 'slippery slope' (I've already spent too much on hand planes!)

Rod

 

[Ned]

What are the Festool Part numbers for these clamps?

Fast action:  "Quick clamp, for use with MFT and quide rails, Qty. 1, FS-HZ 160", 491594, USD 33 each.

Long screw clamps:  "Clamps, 300mm", 489571, USD 40 for 2 of 'em.

I'd give you a link, but there's no more info on the Festool site than I just gave you.

Ned

 

[Dave Rudy]

Just so you know, you're getting some pretty solid advice that represents decades of skill and experience in woodworking.  Worth its weight in Festools!

 

[Dave Ronyak]

There is at least one string on this FOG site that deals with different ways of cutting sheet goods with a TS 55 or other Festool circular saw, including several ideas for different portable systems for supporting the plywood for the cutting.  An inexpensive hollow core door makes a good support, too.  When I recently had to cut up some plywood to make some shop cabinets, I simply placed the plywood on top of a pair of sawhorses.  I used the bottom most sheet as my table, then placed my 3/4" thick styrene foam panels over the plywood, then the sheet I intended to cut for my cabinet pieces.  Using the foam support helps to considerably reduce the airborne sawdust.  I am using a Fein Turbo II also, but I prefer to use the Festool hose with my TS 55.

Dave R.

 

[semenza]

 
Seth,

What exactly is the advantage of the MDF table in the first place? I don't get it. Is it mostly for people with small shops and no tablesaw?

I should have probably explained that I have an old used Felder with a 4' slider. I do most of my crosscuts on that, but the sheet goods are a pain as the slider is only a 4' one. I have a traditional workbench, router table and scms. I do a lot of hand plane work.

I have done a few sets of cabinets and a couple of kitchens, but my parents want new cabinets. I was thinking of building them at their house (with my dad doing the work), as my shoulder will be out of commision for the next 3 months (surgery). I did a kitchen on the other side of the state a couple years ago and built the stuff on site. I used saw horses and an 8' aluminum guide. I am leery of using the two part guides as that one waisted a couple of sheets by flexing at the joint. I'm planning on cutting the sheet goods in their garage, on a couple of saw horses and 2x4s or solid insulation sheet. What is the benefit of the MDF Table? Is it just to make quicker 24" crosscuts and a mobile workbench? Why not just mark the sheetgoods and use the guiderail on the marks? Use a piece of plywood on a couple of saw horses?

A couple of other questions:
1) Do they do packages of 3 tools for a bigger discount (saw, MDF, vacuum)?

2) What is the value of the $42 parallel guide? Isn't it just as easy to mark a 2" cut and adjust the edgeguide to the marks?

3) I saw that the Festool router to fence guide has two steel posts that attach the guide plate to the router. Will these work on my Bosch base? My Felder doesn't do dado's, so I usually use a Clamp and Tool Guide (the rail with the clamp underneath) with router to make long dados. I'd rather have it attached to the rail somehow to avoid bumping the dado out of straight (which has happened a few times!).

By the way, I really value your guys combined expertise. I can see that this is another 'slippery slope' (I've already spent too much on hand planes!)

Rod

Hi,

    As far as cutting goes- The MFT holds the guide rail in position at the height of the work piece. It also has a fence with a stop.  The rail tips up on a hinge , and can be brought back down to the exact same position cut after cut. Combined with the stop set along the fence it mkes repeat cuts very quick.  Someone else can probably give you exact max cutting width. But it is about 42" the long way (1400 rail that comes with TS55) and 23" the short way on the MFT 1080.  Thats the basic thing with cutting. It does similar type oof set ups for the router too. As well as a  host of other  clamping and jig set up functions.

  The MFT will give you an excellent portable work bench. For repeat cuts it will be much faster than marking and setting the rail for each. It will give you lots of  clamping, assembly, and jig set up options on site. You will find that it makes "inventing" set ups much easier. For the full sheets a piece of plywood or just about anything you want to use that is flat, will do the job on some sawhorses .  For example the cuting might go something like this-  rip the sheets to 16" widths or whatever you need. Then set the MFT for all the repeat cross cuts and zip right through.

            1. Not that I have seen.

            2. Pretty much. There are situations were it can be handy. Such as ripping a bunch of narrow stuff. NIce to have avaiilable, but not a must have.

            3.The rods are 5/16" diameter, and 2.8" inside edge to inside edge.  I do not know if they will fit your Bosch router. But It would be pretty easy to make a guide that will. Once you get the rail you could shape a block of wood to fit the rail, Use your existing rods or get ones that fit the router. You are right that it is much better to have the router unable to wander away from the guide rail.

Seth