Setting up TS55

[hortyhoo]

Just bought a TS55 yesterday.  Having a little trouble setting it up.  Need help.  my problem is this, it seems to be cutting in a curve.  it bows out in the middle of the cut and comes back to the original line at the end.  When I make a cut and set a straight edge on the cut it seats 1/16 to 1/8 off of the ends of the cut.  I have tried readjusting the cams several times.  have tried them from very loose to very tight, no help.  I am making sure the track is clean to make sure no sawdust is problem.  Also, the splinter guard looks curved at the ends.  Is it possible that my rail is bowed?  what am I doing wrong?  The saw does make a great splinter free cut in prefinished plywood. 

 

[hobbes]

Do you have another rail to try out, it's not likely that BOTH rails would be curved (in the same way). And also you can sight your rail and it may be possible to see any twists in the rail. Short of that, are you making sure your wood is secure? Any shifting of your workpiece can result in some not-so-straight cuts.

 

[hortyhoo]

I have been clamping the wood but not the track as I didnt get the special clamps for that.  I cant see the bow in the track beyond the curve in the splinter guard.  My plan is go back to woodcraft and show them and either get a new track or they can show me what I am doing wrong 

 

[greenMonster]

Are you sure your strait edge is straight?
;D

 

[tliebel]

I experienced the same problem when I bought my TS55 two years ago. I discovered that it was caused by too much play between the saw and the track. Adjust the gibs on the saw so that there is no wiggle or play between the saw and the track and your problem should disappear.

 

[hortyhoo]

My question is how tight should the cams be?  Should I be able to push the saw with one finger? 

 

[sancho57]

Here ya go, check out pg 8

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/ts_55_eq_us.pdf

 

[Corwin]

In a recent thread here, Rick Christopherson posted a video on setting up your TS55 or TS75 saw.  The portion that demonstrates the guiderail gib adjustment begins at 1:45...

Rick's post with "Intro to TS55/TS75" video

 

[mikeneron]

Quick way to check if the guide rail is straight would be to put it on a flat piece of material like MDF.  Then make a pencil mark along the back edge of the guide rail.  Turn the guide rail 180 degrees and line the back edge up to the pencil mark.  If you were to draw another line now, it should follow the first line. 

What kind of material are you cutting?  Just wondering if maybe it's unstable or something.  I know when I have ripped 2x lumber in the past, it has deviated quite a bit from the cut line after I have made the cut.  Have you tried making some cuts on some different material and getting the same results?

 

[EWTHeckman]

What kind of material are you cutting?  Just wondering if maybe it's unstable or something.

That reminds me, if the material you're cutting isn't properly supported, it can sag and mess up your line too.

 

[hortyhoo]

Thanks for all the tips.  The video link was very helpful.  It was user error all the way.  I tried to cut the entire length of the splinter guard which I think is how i cut the guard bad at the ends of the rail where the saw doesn't have both gibs against the track.  Once I only tried make cuts that were shorter then the cut part of the splinter guard any bow I was detecting was gone.  My next purchase will be more track.  Thanks for all the help. 

On a side note, The guys at Woodcraft in Indianapolis told me to bridge the saw over the tracks when connecting them.  Which I read in a thread that was linked in this thread was the wrong why to do it. 

 

[ccarrolladams]

Thanks for all the tips.  The video link was very helpful.   It was user error all the way.   I tried to cut the entire length of the splinter guard which I think is how i cut the guard bad at the ends of the rail where the saw doesn't have both gibs against the track.  Once I only tried make cuts that were shorter then the cut part of the splinter guard any bow I was detecting was gone.   My next purchase will be more track.  Thanks for all the help. 

On a side note, The guys at Woodcraft in Indianapolis told me to bridge the saw over the tracks when connecting them.   Which I read in a thread that was linked in this thread was the wrong why to do it. 

For many years the Festool USA dealer and end-user classes did suggest the using the TSxx saw bridging the rails approach. However, since late 2010 when connecting rails is covered in those classes both the bridging and the use of a straight edge on the back side of the rail (the side away from the splinter guard) are both covered.

In any event, before using a set of connected rails it is well to do a dry run with the saw to ensure there is no hang-up or binding at the joint. Actually it is easier to fee that binging when the saw is not running.

There is also a slight learning curve about adjusting the gibs snugging the saw to the rail.

Personally I usually clamp the rail to the work, especially when sawing expensive sheet material, so of which is more slippery than less expensive plywood.

 

[hortyhoo]

I am the original poster, So i just bought another 55" track and i also bought a 38" straight edge from Lee Valley.  I do think my first track is bent.  when you lay the straight edge against the rail you can tell the first 6" or so of the track are bent in just slightly.  I don't have a feeler gauge(it is on my list) but the gap has to between a 1/32 and a 1/64 of an inch.  The new track that i got today as no such gap.  you can also see the gap when you make a cut and place the straight edge against the plywood.  No such gap with the new track.    My question is what are my options.  Live with it?  Take to back to woodcraft in Indy for an exchange?  Take to Lebanon for an exchange(i live north of Lebanon)?  I don't want to play dirty and send the old track back as 30 day return on the new track.  Thanks in advance

 

[Wooden Skye]

I would contact service and they will better direct you.  I had a broken part for the cross supports for my MFT and instead of going back to Woodcraft where I bought them, I called service and they sent replacement parts.  Now the part that was broken, isn't the same cost as the rail, but so far my experience has been good about making things right.  The other option is reach out for Shane Holland and ask for his advise.