Shallow mortise in end grain

[Crox G]

I'd like advice on cutting a mortise in the end grain of a long board.  I want to build a bed for my daughter and her husband and have bought a set of standard (Rockler) knock-down bed hardware that mortises into the legs and the sides. The mortise must be 150 mm long x 16 mm wide x 4 mm deep (I'm trying to learn metric).  I have a 1400 (which I love, by the way), various straight bits, the edge guide included with the 1400, and a good set of bushings for template routing. 

I think I can handle the mortises in the legs, using the edge guide and limit stops or marks, but I'm puzzled by how to cut the mortises in the end grain of the sides.  The sides are about 80" (2032 mm) x 6" (152.4 mm) x 1.25" (31.75 mm), eastern white pine.

I picture myself standing on a ladder with the plank on end, board clamped to the ladder, with a jig clamped on the "top" of the board, with the router base either tipping dangerously or being supported by a broad template. If the board is flat on the bench, the router would have to be horizontal, which sounds worse. 

I'm imagining an L-shaped or T-shaped jig, with one leg clamped to the side of the workpiece, and the other leg lying flat on the end of the board, with a rectangular cutout to allow plunge routing.

Any ideas?  Many thanks.

 

[mouppe]

Use a domino.

I used two large dominoes vertically aligned in a bed I made. The bed bolt goes in between making it a very strong joint.

 

[tiralie]

Any ideas?

Make a template and from some scrap MDF and attach to 2x4's to form a sleeve around the side beam.  Attach with screws to the end grain and clamps to the side to hold in place.  Use template guide or top bearing bit to route.
Yes you will need to route sideways. With the template it's really not that big a deal it's only 4mm.
Alternatively you could use an MFS 400, faster but a bit more pricey.
Tim

 

[nclemmons]

+1 on making a jig.  I'd probably use a 1/4" straight cutting bit in a 1/2" bushing and size the jig hole to the size you need with the 1/8" incremental given the bushing.

Good luck!

neil

 

[tjbnwi]

As suggested, make a template. 19 mm thick.

Use this bit;

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/131/products_id/17585

The one thing I do with my mortising is add a second bearing. Order an additional bearing, remove the collar install second bearing, reinstall collar. With this bit you can make the template the exact size you need.

Easiest way to make a temple is 4 piece that cross each other at the corners. I use pocket screws to secure the corners. Look at pictures of the MFS and it will be clear how to do it.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Crox, here are the pics of the mortising bit with 2 bearings. The primary advantage is it works with just about any thickness jig. If you have an MFS, this about the only way a pattern bit will work without a template bushing. The second picture the bit is resting in the jig I made for door strike plates.

If you want to use this bit and bearing set up get in touch with Tom Bellemare from Tool Home. All the part numbers to achieve this he can look up in my account.

Tom

 

[ScotF]

Yep -- making a jig is safe and effective and it is not a big deal to route vertically -- I do it all the time.  The MFS would be ideal for this, but as Tim suggested, making a platform to support the router as it makes the cut would be easy enough with some scrap 2x material -- just encapsulate the end of the board.  You could even use your router fence to help set the correct distance for each cut. 

Scot

 

[Crox G]

Many thanks for the replies.  I tried the guide-collar first, but the template I made had too much slop for a good job.

I then ordered the little bit that Tom suggested, and meanwhile made a wooden MFS, using pocket hole screws to attach the four parts around the hardware for a Perfect fit. Where has that technique been all my life? The bit came from Tom Bellamere almost overnight--great service. 

I now understand why Tom uses two bearings, and how they fit.  They go on the shaft of the bit, and are held in place with a collar and set screw. I was picturing the bearings that fit on the end of, say, a quarter-round, with a small threaded section and locking nut.  The CMT bit can stack two bearings with no trouble.

I have the jig tested and ready to go. Now I have to back-track to prepare the stock and do all the steps leading up to the routing.  Rubin 2 in my ETS 150/3 on clear, straight, Eastern white pine. Dreamy.

@ RL: Sorry, no Domino. Maybe someday. Sigh.

Thanks again to the FOG!
Crox G.

 

[tjbnwi]

Happy it worked out for you.

Making the jig with the pocket screws has always been there. You just needed to hear about it.

Yah, Tom's pretty good at what he does.

Tom