Shaving trick
- Thread starter ChuckM
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derekcohen
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Mini Me said:
Chris, Most of the time I sharpen the plane's blade before use. That means removing the blade. [crying]
Regards from Perth
Derek
I used to retract the blade before putting a plane away. But why? I asked myself. It turned out to be just a habit with little benefits (other than a feel-good factor).
I now leave the blade setting, and I know it is set to cut square when I pick it up next time. And I also know if I need to adjust the depth of cut by feeling the shaving. Sometimes I may miss a cut or need to redo a cut from the last session, Chris's tip helps there.
In fact, I've been doing what Chris does to his handplanes to my power tools all along. For example, I leave the last settings (including the cutting bit) whenever possible on the Domino machine and router table (folding) as is before I put them away. Time and again, the old settings are exactly what I need to mill a new part or fix a mistake. Quite a time-saver.
My sharpening regime is like this: I sharpen everything (plane blades, chisels and saws (only if needed)) once a year (usually in the fall before the shop is too cold to use waterstones). I don't hone any tools before a woodworking session, but if a couple of edges begin to feel dull, I quickly resharpen them on the diamond lapping films (set up 1 minute, freehand honing another minute - mirco-bevel on the 0.5 micron and 0.1 micron)), and I'm back to business. I belong to the camp of "honing often and staying sharp."
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/sheets-and-belts/68943-diamond-lapping-film
I now leave the blade setting, and I know it is set to cut square when I pick it up next time. And I also know if I need to adjust the depth of cut by feeling the shaving. Sometimes I may miss a cut or need to redo a cut from the last session, Chris's tip helps there.
In fact, I've been doing what Chris does to his handplanes to my power tools all along. For example, I leave the last settings (including the cutting bit) whenever possible on the Domino machine and router table (folding) as is before I put them away. Time and again, the old settings are exactly what I need to mill a new part or fix a mistake. Quite a time-saver.
My sharpening regime is like this: I sharpen everything (plane blades, chisels and saws (only if needed)) once a year (usually in the fall before the shop is too cold to use waterstones). I don't hone any tools before a woodworking session, but if a couple of edges begin to feel dull, I quickly resharpen them on the diamond lapping films (set up 1 minute, freehand honing another minute - mirco-bevel on the 0.5 micron and 0.1 micron)), and I'm back to business. I belong to the camp of "honing often and staying sharp."
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/sheets-and-belts/68943-diamond-lapping-film
derekcohen
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ChuckS said:
[eek]
Regards from Perth
Derek
derekcohen
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Chuck, I do have an idea how cold it gets in Canada .... well, Ottawa - I spent a few weeks there at the Lee Valley factory in 2013, when vacationing with Rob Lee. For an Aussie from Western Australia, the cold was unbelievable! Occasionally I stay out of the shop owing to heat. Some days in summer it gets over 105 F.
I use hand planes and chisels all the time. It would be inconceivable to do so without sharpening them as I work. I cannot imagine doing so once a year - a shop session may see me do this a few times.
You may like this article I wrote. I was probably the first to write about using CBN wheels for planes and chisels:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html
I use both BU and BD planes. Most of the planes from Veritas have passed through my shop at the pre-production stage or for road testing. One of the recommendations I made in regard to BU plane blades was to grind them all at 25 degrees if you wish to add a camber. Then add a secondary bevel at the angle desired to this. I recommended against using the single bevel blades sold by Lee Valley as (especially the 50 degree bevel) is impossible to add a camber (too much steel to remove). I wrote this article about this in 2007/2008:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/TheSecretToCamberinBUPlaneBlades.html
I'll toss in this review of the Custom Planes: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasCustomPlanes1.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
I use hand planes and chisels all the time. It would be inconceivable to do so without sharpening them as I work. I cannot imagine doing so once a year - a shop session may see me do this a few times.
You may like this article I wrote. I was probably the first to write about using CBN wheels for planes and chisels:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html
I use both BU and BD planes. Most of the planes from Veritas have passed through my shop at the pre-production stage or for road testing. One of the recommendations I made in regard to BU plane blades was to grind them all at 25 degrees if you wish to add a camber. Then add a secondary bevel at the angle desired to this. I recommended against using the single bevel blades sold by Lee Valley as (especially the 50 degree bevel) is impossible to add a camber (too much steel to remove). I wrote this article about this in 2007/2008:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/TheSecretToCamberinBUPlaneBlades.html
I'll toss in this review of the Custom Planes: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasCustomPlanes1.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
Thanks, Derek. Will check out the links posted later.
My power sharpening system is primitive: just a grinder with a white aluminum oxide wheel and a Veritas tool rest (the best out there , mostly for removing nicks on blades and chisels). Woodturning tools are sharpened there, too. My shop is unheated (heaters are turned on 15 minutes beforehand whenever it's under 10 C in the shop in the winter), so waterstones and liquid hide glue are seldom used outside the warm/hot seasons.
My power sharpening system is primitive: just a grinder with a white aluminum oxide wheel and a Veritas tool rest (the best out there , mostly for removing nicks on blades and chisels). Woodturning tools are sharpened there, too. My shop is unheated (heaters are turned on 15 minutes beforehand whenever it's under 10 C in the shop in the winter), so waterstones and liquid hide glue are seldom used outside the warm/hot seasons.
I've worked with tiger wood before, and always try to use freshly thickness-planed stock as soon as practicable. I planed the required stock on Sunday, and began the project right away. Still, one board twisted on me, which I found out during dry-fitting today:
[attachimg=1]
Luckily, I kept the odd fence height setting from the last mortising session, and without sweat, I replaced the twisted component using the same DF500 settings on a spare stock prepared for this kind of occasion or unforeseen mistakes:
[attachimg=2]
Similarly, I need not re-set the plane to remove the machine marks.
[attachimg=1]
Luckily, I kept the odd fence height setting from the last mortising session, and without sweat, I replaced the twisted component using the same DF500 settings on a spare stock prepared for this kind of occasion or unforeseen mistakes:
[attachimg=2]
Similarly, I need not re-set the plane to remove the machine marks.
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Crazyraceguy
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I always leave mine with a 6mm bit, set to 20mm on the side scale and 20mm depth of cut, always.
No matter what I did last, when I put it away every day, it goes in the Systainer with those settings.
That is how I use it most often, I can pull it out for just that type of cut and use it instantly. Just a habit I got into int he early days of having it, because I have cut right through the face of 19mm sides as part of the learning curve. Check every adjustment/stop.
No matter what I did last, when I put it away every day, it goes in the Systainer with those settings.
That is how I use it most often, I can pull it out for just that type of cut and use it instantly. Just a habit I got into int he early days of having it, because I have cut right through the face of 19mm sides as part of the learning curve. Check every adjustment/stop.
derekcohen
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- Jun 22, 2008
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Leaving a power tool set up to continue where one left off is one thing. It is just not done with hand tools. How often do you need to sharpen the power tool? You always need to sharpen the hand tool, if you use them regularly and frequently.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Regards from Perth
Derek
Misunderstanding here?derekcohen said:
The last blade setting (in both squareness and depth) can be changed anytime whether for a different cut or for honing. The point about leaving a shaving there is that you can immediately tell if the setting in the plane needs to be changed for the task at hand. The trick works for those whose habit is always or often to put away their planes as is from their last use.
