Sheet goods - getting off the floor

[Duct Tape]

Place the foam on the table as you do for the floor.

Do you have any pics of your work table uncovered? Are the small side “wings” adjustable? Thx. Very nice.

 

[hdv]

You might be right. But I did notice quite a lot of foam dust when a fellow woodworker demonstrated this way of sawing to me years ago. Especially with so-called "dust cuts" along edges. Since then I haven't dared to go this route myself. More so because the foam dust is so light it will get into the air with the slightest draft. I am a bit conservative when it comes to my lungs. Sadly, I have to. But maybe I have become a bit too cautious...

Anyway, I like the platform saddles regardless. Without the posts on a frame and with the posts in the dog holes of my bench. Just like this:

 

[Michael Kellough]

With dust extraction I don’t experience foam in the air. With the foam being lighter and under the material being cut my guess is the foam dust is well captured.

Tom

Agree! The lightweight foam dust is more likely to get sucked up than the wood dust. This is really the least debris spewing way to cut. You need to keep the blade in a kerf, whether foam or wood ala MFT to maximize dust collection. Cutting on an open grid sacrifices a substantial amount of the suction from the dust extractor.

When trimming an edge sometimes the outer face/teeth will run through open air and debris will spew everywhere. Simply placing an equal thickness board alongside the propose cut will substantially improve the dust collection. If the cut is truly along the edge of both the work and the support structure and there is nothing to place a board on simply taping a piece of cardboard (like part of the side of a cereal box) to the saw housing makes a huge difference. The cardboard should a bit ahead of the saw and hang an inch or more below the work. Observing where debris escapes you can refine to get very good collection.

 

[Packard]

I made my portable saw table using two ToughBuilt C700 saw horses and three pieces of 8 foot 2” x 4’ studs.

The saw horses are 23 pounds each according to the manufacturer (but feel heavier), and cost (back several years ago) $60.00 each or two for $100.00 at Lowes. Probably twice that now. Capacity of 1,300 pounds each (2,600 pounds for the pair), which should be more than adequate. I use mine with a 4’ x 8’ x 3” sheet of foam insulation. The guy in the video adds a couple of 2” x 4” pieces on top of the saw horses and can cut directly over the 2” x 4” studs.

The resin saw horses are cheaper and lighter, but I have not had good luck with them. They might have improved over the years, so that is another option.

I always clamp my track to the foam base and that has never been an issue.



Here are the components:

Sawhorse Table | Jobsite Table | ToughBuilt — TOUGHBUILT

The C700 is a serious sawhorse table constructed of 100% high-grade steel with 1300 lb. capacity alone and 2600 lb. per pair. C700, the ultimate job site table!

toughbuilt.com

 

[Allano]

You might be right. But I did notice quite a lot of foam dust when a fellow woodworker demonstrated this way of sawing to me years ago.

Do you have soft wood fibre board available where you live? Example

As you, I don't want to create plastic dust* by using a foam backing while sawing. So I have bought a couple of the fiberboards in the link. I use them for ripping plywood.

For cross cuts, I just cut into my MFT-style tabletop. All the cuts are along the same line, as my rail for the track saw is always in the same place on that table.

(*: Though I bet there is still some undesirable stuff in whatever glue they use to hold the fibres together.)

 

[hdv]

What he used was XPS I think.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

In terms of handling sheet goods, the "Crazy Horse" dolly has been really handy: https://westoakstudios.com/product/crazy-horse/

Also, the hydraulic lift tables such as my Felder FAT 500 are handy for loading particularly heavy sheets: https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/...ment-c1966/work-table-fat-p142926?vid=4096033

I've been using the RUWI support beams for supporting the work, though as mentioned earlier it certainly is liberating to treat MFT tops as sacrificial and just cutting into the work tops....

 

[luvmytoolz]

I cut 8' x 4' sheets on my MFT routinely, I have a couple of long hardwood fence pickets I stick underneath to protect the MFT top from being destroyed, and to also support the piece cut off.

 

[tjbnwi]

Do you have any pics of your work table uncovered? Are the small side “wings” adjustable? Thx. Very nice.

Sorry, just saw your post. I had uploaded the plans for the table on the old forum, I’ll see if I can find them.

Tm

 

[MacBoy]

In terms of handling sheet goods, the "Crazy Horse" dolly has been really handy: https://westoakstudios.com/product/crazy-horse/

Along with your testimonial, they have a super-convincing video. Since it is out of stock, might have to make one.

It’s a 44-second video:

 

[luvmytoolz]

Along with your testimonial, they have a super-convincing video. Since it is out of stock, might have to make one.

It’s a 44-second video:

You know what'd be perfect for making one of those dollies, the base from an old office chair!

Only need to stick some thick dowel in the tube to the desired height with a soft rubber pad on top and done!

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Yeah, the Crazy Horse has gone through a few iterations, and I believe the maker puts them out in batches, it certainly doesn't hurt to reach out to see if he has a list going of interested parties. That being said, there used to be plans posted online on how to make your own, I believe the hardest part was coming up with a good method for producing the silicone dome. Some internet sleuthing may locate the plans....

 

[jeffinsgf]

There are dozens of solutions, both commercial and shop-built. I use a Walko workbench folded flat and resting on a pair of sawhorses with a piece of foam on top. If I didn't have the Walko, I would probably make a KD grid out of plywood or one-by. The Centipede table would also be on my short list of replacements for what I currently use. Bottom line...unless you're blessed with nearly unlimited space, the solution needs to be KD. That statement assumes you don't work with sheet goods everyday. I don't. 4 or 5 times a year I have to break down a full sheet. My full sheet cutting station comes together in about 3 minutes and disappears just as quickly. I haven't been able to work on my knees for 30+ years, so I fully understand where you're going. Amazed you're still doing it at our age!

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

I store my sheets of material standing on their long edge, as they then take up far less storage space.....The biggest problem is getting them from vertical to horizontal, hence why the STM 1800 is the ideal solution for me. Lifting each end onto the foldaway lugs is easy enough and then tipping the STM over from vertical to horizontal is a doddle...

Even an 8'x4' (2440 x 1220 mm) sheet of plywood or MDF can be tricky, let alone the 2800 x 2070mm sheets that I regularly have to deal with, but the STM makes it easily manageable.

 

[tjbnwi]

The table I build does knock down, takes about 5 minutes to disassemble and 5 minutes to assemble. I’ve made multiple over the years. Only need one set up at the shop so….

 

[Allano]

What he used was XPS I think.

Which is what you want to avoid because it is plastic, right?

I was suggesting a wooden alternative.

 

[Packard]

Which is what you want to avoid because it is plastic, right?

I was suggesting a wooden alternative.

As long as it is not plywood, particleboard, wafer board or MDF, which contains formaldehyde, also bad to inhale.

The expanded foam sheets at least are easily recycled. Wear a mask.

If you are cutting over 2” x 4” studs, just saw dust.

But this from OSHA: https://www.osha.gov/wood-dust

Wood dust becomes a potential health problem when wood particles from processes such as sanding and cutting become airborne. Breathing these particles may cause allergic respiratory symptoms, mucosal and non-allergic respiratory symptoms, and cancer. The extent of these hazards and the associated wood types have not been clearly established.

Wear a mask.

 

[Allano]

As long as it is not plywood, particleboard, wafer board or MDF, which contains formaldehyde, also bad to inhale.

Already covered in my first post.

Anyway, health is one thing. Microplastics pollution is another.

 

[P_K]

Do you have soft wood fibre board available where you live? Example

As you, I don't want to create plastic dust* by using a foam backing while sawing. So I have bought a couple of the fiberboards in the link. I use them for ripping plywood.

For cross cuts, I just cut into my MFT-style tabletop. All the cuts are along the same line, as my rail for the track saw is always in the same place on that table.

(*: Though I bet there is still some undesirable stuff in whatever glue they use to hold the fibres together.)

Trupan Ultralight MDF | Ultralight | Trupan MDF | Medium Density Fiberboard | Products | ARAUCO - ARAUCO

Trupan Ultralight MDF is high performing and extremely light weight for logistics optimization, moulding, millwork and furniture making.

na.arauco.com

Same material commonly used for a CNC spoil board, makes a better work surface than a sheet of XPS if you're cutting table doubles as an assembly bench. Gets a bit unwieldy if you're in the habit of breaking down between uses though.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I have an STM 1800 that I put my own MFT style slabs on but still don't like to cut into either so I too use 1/4" ply pieces as spoil boards. I made a cheat sheet of saw depth settings for the wood I use to just cut into the spoil board.