Shellac over BIN primer?

[JimmyFord]

Anyone know if you can shellac over BIN primer? Im going for a certain aesthetic on the base of a desk I’m doing. I used BIN to cover knots and seal the wood and I was then going to paint it white, but the bin turns out to be the look the person had envisioned, so if I could shellac over it to get a bit of luster and keep the color from yellowing I’d be set, but Im concerned the shellac will just meld into the bin and cause an issue in the future. Having a hard time finding any info on using bin in this way.  I guess I could just poly it, but they were hoping for something that would age and be very easy to repair without having to sand the whole thing down. Anyways, Id appreciate any input!

 

[Michael Kellough]

You need to identify what exactly they like about the appearance of the BIN.
Shellac will change it. Shellac is yellowish as is oil based poly.
If they like it now why do anything else? Repair BIN with more BIN.

 

[junk731]

Unfortunately even a very blonde shellac will yellow the white primer. Use a low gloss or satin WB clear. Something like Minwax WB Polycrylic clear is a low hardness, soft finish thats easy to get.  That should give you what you are looking for and be compatible with the soft BIN primer.

 

[JimmyFord]

You need to identify what exactly they like about the appearance of the BIN.
Shellac will change it. Shellac is yellowish as is oil based poly.
If they like it now why do anything else? Repair BIN with more BIN.

I was told bin will start cracking within a few weeks, so I always thought there needed to be something on top. Ive only used bin a few times, and only have used paint on projects a few times (only when explicitly requested by a client). I think they would be happy with bin as it is, but I don’t have enough experience with the product to know how it would work as the only finish applied. 

Thanks for the replies!

 

[butzla]

I've used BIN a ton.  It's my go to for spray priming.  Sticks to everything, dries fast, needs no thinning and sands easily and quickly.  I've also sprayed and left it to start another projects then come back to it months later (er, ok maybe years) and noticed no cracking.  But it is shellac based so I could see if it was applied thick enough, that may be the case.  When I spray it goes on very thin. 

If that's the look they are going for, I agree with others the shellac top coat will yellow over time.  I would say to top coat with some kind of flat or matt finished paint.  Like a milk paint.  You could have it tinted to whatever off white you like.  I've used Black Dog Salvage Paint paint before.  Although pricey it looks great.

 

[JimmyFord]

If that's the look they are going for, I agree with others the shellac top coat will yellow over time.  I would say to top coat with some kind of flat or matt finished paint.  Like a milk paint.  You could have it tinted to whatever off white you like.  I've used Black Dog Salvage Paint paint before.  Although pricey it looks great.

Do you need to use the paint protector top coat with the black dog stuff or will just the paint by itself hold up?

 

[butzla]

Good question.  Because, off that link, I see they sell a top coat protector.  I've not used it, I painted the insides of a dry bar wall cabinets with just the paint.  So far it holds up as well as most paints.  I say most because I really don't think anything wears quite like Ben Moore Advance paint if you're looking for durability.  The Black Dog paint will hold up leagues above BIN with shellac top coat, though.
My advice would be to go to your local specialty paint store and seek advice before you commit.  They might have Advance in a matt finish.  It's $65/ g, not cheap but certainly cheaper than Black Dog salvage @ $32/ qt