Shop Cabinets

[sancho57]

What got me started down the slippery slope was a you tube video on cab making by Joe Fusco

Do a search for Joseph fusco1960 he has a series of videos 3 on cab making. That's pretty close to the method I use. I used it till I bought the rest of the Festools I now own

 

[electricald]

Hey Jeff,
I have to say that that was one of the better videos of constructing cabinets ( Thanks Brice ). And as one of the guys mentioned to me, to build just one and then incorporate it into the rest. So, I guess it is just a matter of size. Once you can build one simple one as shown in the video, you can build bigger or to any reasonable size. But again he does some great explaining and as Brice has mentioned there is alot of information on you tube about this.

But check out this guy and read his story of his project and he takes you through the whole process of revamping a kitchen and pays particular attention to the construction of the cabinets. There is some very good information in there, especially when he shows the photo of the carcass built before he adds the face frame. Have a look:

http://www.crwoodworking.com/cww%20current%20kitchen%20project.htm

I also bought a copy of Tom Clark's, "Practical Shop Cabinets" and it is a very interesting read. I find that Tom lays out a simple plan to build cabinets without getting into too much jargon. It is a very good read. I am also going to order Jim Tolpin's book as well (as I previously mentioned). But Tom's book does give you a good understanding of cabinets and he also instills in you a sort of confidence that you can do this.

Regards,
Dan

I've started watching the PCC videos that Brice linked.  They are good quality audio and video and the instructor does a good job explaining what he is doing.

He shows some techniques I haven't seen (tapping the edge banding with a block, guillotining and trimming with a plane blade) and also what seems to me like an unusual method for machining and joining the top and bottom to the sides.  He cuts a stopped rabbet in the side short of the face, then joints a notch in the front part of the top and bottom to clear the un-rabbeted portion of the sides.

It works well but this method seems to use an odd combination of tools and techniques.

There are many different ways to do this, so I am wondering how other members are joining their sides when building this type of cabinet.  In particular when working with melamine type material would a Domino type of joint (perhaps with pocket screws to hold it in lieu of clamps) be a reasonable alternative to the stopped rabbet / notched edge technique for those of use who are not equipped with a jointer?

Jeff

 

[Jeff Zanin]

That was a very interesting kitchen update, thanks for the link.

I have never tried making them but I really like the Arts & Crafts design, especially in a place like this which is also the appropriate size and age for this style.

Jeff

 

[ginocon]

You more or less all the basic stuff oyu need to buidl the cabinets.
Howver it would be great to add some aditional tools that can save a lot in time give you more experience.
Get the Kreg Master system to learn pocket hole joinery, Although you have the domino that is more or less the same but with a much cleaner look. But more expensive.
Get the T-15 or T18 complete set to help you assembly everything.
then go to youtube and look for some videos about building cabinets.  www.thewoodwhisperer.com, or look for cabinets by joe fusco. all these use a la ot of festool gear.
The birch plywood is an excelent choice.
Look for The newyankee workshop: Mitre bench and storage videos.  That is for me the most inspirational video on upgrading and adding storage to a woodshop.
Ron Paulk has also a very unique bench for his festool gear. look for crpaulk on youtube.com

Get a table saw also as soon as you can. A decent cabinetsaw. (Delta, Powermatic, Sawstop etc. with 52" extension) Next to these a good Jointer and Planer. (belt driven)

Good luck.

 

[skids]

I just got this book, which has an accompanying DVD, and I have to say it's great so far.

I have alot of experience with remodeling and the like, but zero with cabinet construction, and this book has really opened my eyes. The author keeps it pretty simple and straightforward so you can construct a basic base and upper cabinet. Seemed like a good starting point, and so far this has been the best book I have found. Although I need a few more references. I would also second the woodwhisperer for this type of thing.

The DVD with the book is a very helpful format for this type of learning material.

http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Cabinets-Simple-Step-Step/dp/1600853005

 

[JoggleStick]

G'day Dan,

I'd certainly suggest considering the floor finish before you build the cabinets, etc. There are any number of ways to get it right.... But sooner is definately better than later.
Personally I much prefer setting up a kickboard base on base cabinet runs rather than those plastic legs. If you have a number of cabinets in a run; I find them a complete PIA. However I know plenty of guys who like them. To each their own.

I use epoxies on almost a daily basis and can vouch that epoxy technology, like everything else, has greatly improved over the years. However epoxies are a toxic material and must be handled with respect and care. As humorous as Tinkers tale was- it was a tale of 'How NOT to handle epoxies'.

I had a contract for a number of years to 'paint chip flake' finish the garages in several retirement villages.... From 'new' but the floor was also refreshed whenever a 'house' was vacated. So I got to see how the material stood up over a 10 year+ period.

From my experience I set my cabinets on kickboards. I then finished the garage/workshop floor with epoxy paint chip. I ran the epoxy up the walls and the kickboards about 100mm- this gives me a floor that nothing ever gets lost on (totally seamless). Further, I can blow it out, hose it out, whatever. I love it!

Hint: each and every manufacturer will have their own 'system'. It is critical you don't mix&match. Stick with one system. Steps are clean, prime, epoxy, flakes, epoxy and top coat is two coats of a quality clear polyurethane. (Non slip grit goes in first Poly top coat- if Reqd.) (7 steps completed over 48 hr period)

I could go on-and-on, write a book even- better still if you've got any questions- just ask!