Shop wall cleats system - anyone have suggestions?

[rmwarren]

I am finally going to upgrade my workshop, i.e. insulation, wallboard of some type and I want to add a system of horizontal cleats for hanging tolls, cabinets, etc. Looking for suggestions on # of cleats, heights etc, basically looking for the rationale for why to do it one way instead of another.

My inclination is to make the cleats from 3/4" poplar, around 2-1/2" high with a 45 degree bevel. I would prefer the look of 1/2" material but my gut tells me this may be too narrow.

I need to hang 40-50 clamps, some 12" wall cabinets, chisels and hand saws, jig/fixtures, hoses and cords. After years of ignoring the aesthetics of the inside of the shop I finally want a nice looking workspace, no more nails driven into 2 by 4's to hang stuff on. I am finishing up 10' of 24" base cabinets that will be 100% heavy drawers, all my routers, sanders, nailers, hand planes, etc are going to be in drawers, out of sight. For the record, I am not a huge fan of systainers (blasphemy!) so mostly the Festools get unpacked and the systainers go into storage. Cabinets are just unfinished plywood now but will eventually get decent drawer faces.

I like my work surfaces to be 37" high, it is the most comfortable height for me. I am thinking of one row of cleats around the entire shop at around 48" (top of cleat) which will give me about 50" to the top of the opposing cleat, assuming it is also around 2-1/2". This should give me about 12" from the top of the cleats for stuff to hang down without hitting the top of the workbenches.

I envision one more cleat just below the ceiling (enough room for the opposing cleat to slip over it) and then another intermediate cleat at around 72" but for this last one there is no logic behind the height, just halfway between the top and bottom cleats.

The shop is only 12' by 10' outside, old 2 by 4 construction to full 96" studs and single plates so I have about 99" wall height inside. I have little enough wall area that I can probably justify the cost of pine T&G for the walls, but if I go that route I want to limit the need to screw stuff into it, again just for aesthetics.

Appreciate any input, especially photos from anyone who uses this system and your opinion on its flexibility, etc.

Thanks!

RMW

 

[Sparktrician]

I've been planning something similar using a system of side-to-side French cleats made from 3/4" x 4" or 1" x 4" LVL painted or stained to match the shop.  The first is 12" AFF, followed by four more spaced 18" above the first cleat, and separated from each other by 18".  That puts cleat tops at 12", 30", 48", 66" and 84" AFF, and screwed to studs with either cap screws or GRK RSS screws.  With this system in place, I can standardize my cabinets and with constant intervals between cleats, mount them at almost any lateral or vertical position.  Each cabinet will hang on no less than two cleats for strength.  I can also leave a gap above the floor to allow vacuuming, and to prevent damage in case of leaks or flooding.  If necessary, I can put legs under bottom cabinets to support heavy loads like deep base cabinets.  I think that 1/2" cleat material hasn't sufficient strength to do what I want.  This is all conceptual right now, but I plan on starting the shop project sometime this spring, and will work out the details on the cabinetry side of the cleats as I go.  I hope this concept is of some value to you. 

[smile]

 

[pugilato]

The bookcase (5' x 7') is hung from two french cleats at 45, 4" total width, screwed into cement block with tapcons. The cleats are glued and screwed to the back panel, and through that to the verticals and to the fixed shelves (top and middle). They are now (there's two of them) full of books and feel solid. Been up for almost two years now putting up with tropical moisture and heat.

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[pugilato]

Rechecked the sketchup file, and I correct... each component of the french cleat is 4" wide at its widest, 8" total when mated with the 4" component on the wall. Very strong.

 

[JeromeM]

The system is excellent and the 3/4" thickness is a good one for cabinets and general wall fittings AFAIR I'm using either that or 1/2" on my workbench.
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[attachthumb=#]

The hight of 2 1/2” is more of personal choice I'm using a narrower strip and it works for me. When I build my workshop I'll be installing a French cleat system, though I'll initially be installing at least 5 strips

You may find some good ideas from the site that gave me a lot of ideas.  http://benchmark.20m.com/workshop/ShopTour_Current/ShopTour_Current.html