Shop wiring and CT26 vac

[JamieMcGannon]

So i'm in the process of completely wiring my shop and decided I wanted to create a 'Festool circuit' of 120v outlets.

Design/theory:

1. Plug the CT26 into a standard 120v outlet providing power to the vac as well as the receptacle at the front.
2. Create a short extension cord, plug into the front of the CT26 and plug the other end into the 'festool circuit, effectively energizing that circuit.
3. Plug Kapex into same 'festool circuit' receptacle and put a draw onto the circuit and the CT26 will automatically come on.
4. I've also wired additional 'festool circuits' throughout the shop. The intention here is to eliminate the need to move the vac and rather just run additional hose, connect the tool.

Problem:
1. When all is connected as reference above, the vac set to auto it cycles on and off without even putting a draw on the circuit. Now when the tool is turned on the vac runs continuously but when not in use the vac is cycling ever second or two.

Question: Anyone know how to resolve the cycling on and off?

P.S - I've attached some photos for reference. I've even gone as far as painting the receptacles to identify the 'festool circuit'. Note, on the receptacles with white and green, I've split the outlet into 2 circuit by breaking the tab on the hot side of the outlet.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Jamie

I thought for a minute you were recreating the Dust Hub concept, perhaps you are. I will put a link to the video at the end.

The way the CT is randomly starting up and stopping is a mystery - did a Carvex die in the area and is haunting the workshop?

It may be that something on your extended circuit is drawing a very small amount of current - it may even be the neons of the various sockets. If it is right on the line where the CT detects a power draw then it might randomly fire up.

I am afraid that I am not an expert with US wiring regulations and can offer no further advice.

As promised, here is the link to the Dust Hub:


Peter

 

[JamieMcGannon]

Thanks for your reply Peter. Your dust hub video definitely inspired me and got me thinking. I suppose I will begin by disconnecting the other outlets and see if in fact there is some draw that is triggering the auto start. I'll let you know how that goes. Thanks again

 

[Holmz]

The turn on current is low... even a transformer will turn ono the vac.
It is either capacitance, inductance or resistance.

What does a VOM show the resistance at?

 

[Baartman]

I use this, and I have a string of outlet boxes I have in my work bench connected to it. I just put the ct26 on manual. I'd rather fry the ivac than my ct anyway.

 

[JamieMcGannon]

I found the problem. On the outlets with 2 separate circuits (white and green outlet picture) I failed to break the tab separating the 2 neutral terminals. Once I fully isolated the 2 circuits it stopped cycling and now works perfectly.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

 

[Holmz]

I found the problem. On the outlets with 2 separate circuits (white and green outlet picture) I failed to break the tab separating the 2 neutral terminals. Once I fully isolated the 2 circuits it stopped cycling and now works perfectly.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

I assume that the Volt meter helped??

Actually the exact process you used and insights gained would be useful to others taking the same approach.

 

[JimD]

I didn't think of a dedicated circuit, interesting.  I have a simpler shop vac (Rigid) pulling through a dust deputy and powered up by this switch:
http://www.rockler.com/i-socket-110...PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CNbg5s3118oCFQMMaQodbGkHWg

Works well but I get tired of the plugging and unplugging so I plan to have a couple short connected extension cords.  My normal situation doesn't involve more than a couple tools I alternate between so I think I can do something similar to this with extension cords.  One of the tools is the table saw which is not against any wall so an outlet would require a cord anyway.

 

[JamieMcGannon]

Jim, I often find myself spending as much time switching hose, connecting and disconnecting power cords and moving the DC around and I wanted to improve that process. I'm now in a static shop and much like what Peter's dust deputy does my set up will do the same. As will yours with your extension cords. I just conceiled it within the wall and conduit and made a dedicated festool circuit.

 

[JimD]

I'd seen that dust hub video before, I like that guy, but his setup seems a little too much like my old 1hp DC setup.  The problem with my DC was poor filtration and not enough suction.  I had fine dust all over because of it.  So when I see ideas that seem like it I am not immediately attracted.  But the concept and avoidance of hose movement is a good idea.  The switches on the outlets is clever too.  My shop vacuum is on a cart based upon plans from woodsmith with a dust deputy.  There is an outlet the automatic switch is plugged into.  I wonder if I couldn't put a couple blast gates onto this cart so I could have two tools connected electrically and by hoses so I would just move blast gates to change tools.  It would make emptying the drywall bucket under the cyclone more difficult but that only happens every few days for me - much less often than hose moving.  I don't have much shop time these days (although I guess I could be there now instead of on this computer) but I might mess with it.  I find that 2 inch PVC works well for shop vacuum connections.  I hard piped my shop vac to the cyclone with it and could use it to rig up blast gates on the inlet too.  I like to make my own blast gates out of plumbing couplers and scraps of plywood.  The work better than the plastic gates I've used.  So cost would be low. 

 

[Richard A.]

Jim,
Can you share a photo of your shop made blast-gates?
- Rich

I'd seen that dust hub video before, I like that guy, but his setup seems a little too much like my old 1hp DC setup.  The problem with my DC was poor filtration and not enough suction.  I had fine dust all over because of it.  So when I see ideas that seem like it I am not immediately attracted.  But the concept and avoidance of hose movement is a good idea.  The switches on the outlets is clever too.  My shop vacuum is on a cart based upon plans from woodsmith with a dust deputy.  There is an outlet the automatic switch is plugged into.  I wonder if I couldn't put a couple blast gates onto this cart so I could have two tools connected electrically and by hoses so I would just move blast gates to change tools.  It would make emptying the drywall bucket under the cyclone more difficult but that only happens every few days for me - much less often than hose moving.  I don't have much shop time these days (although I guess I could be there now instead of on this computer) but I might mess with it.  I find that 2 inch PVC works well for shop vacuum connections.  I hard piped my shop vac to the cyclone with it and could use it to rig up blast gates on the inlet too.  I like to make my own blast gates out of plumbing couplers and scraps of plywood.  The work better than the plastic gates I've used.  So cost would be low.